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Discussion Starter #1
I am intrested in upgrading my head lights as they are dim and yellowing.

Question that i have is can the 05-07 be adjusted? I not crazy of the finished look under the hood. OR

Should i just replace them with the factory clear again and add a retro-solutions kit?

Which retro-solutions kit do i get? 5000? What buld do i replace the fog with as well that is not Hid.

Please advice as i only want to do this once.

I am not doing a 05 conversion at this time neigther.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
will there be a differance in the retro-solutions kits between the 05 lights and the 02 lights. So if i decide to change the lenses later i can?
 

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The '05 up housings suck, The H13-9008 used in the '05 up trucks is quite possibly the stupidest design for a bulb ever foisted on the public. The terminals are so small that they overheat, even at stock wattages, and melt the plastic housing of the connectors. Higher than stock wattage bulbs are offered, but not recommended. There are Chinese connectors that are being used to make these kits and no harness will fix the problem of to small of terminals. As of now no USA made plugs are made that I have seen and wouldn't solve the problem anyway.

You have the best headlight housings made now just get new '02-04 housings and with the addition of Hella harness and a set of their 80/100w 4k kelvin bulbs will give you fantastic lighting.

You can also do a fog bulb upgrade..75% as bright as Hids and mod the switch to use them with your high beams.

H4, 9004 and 9007 bulbs are dual element lamp – both low and high beam. An HID capsule is a single element so you loose one of the beams – more often you loose the low. Notice also that the low beam has a shield next to it – an HID Capsule does not.



The light sources in any lamp must be precisely placed at the design focal point. The lens/reflector assembly is computer designed for the shape of the light source. You cannot retrofit a standard HID capsule with the H1, H3, H4, H7 or 9000 series mounting hardware and precisely position the light source because the design of the bulb base is not precise enough. A lamp designed for a D2S capsule has a precision machined capsule holder, not a stamped steel or molded plastic one.



The light source of an HID is a totally different shape than the light source of a filament bulb. The source for a halogen bulb is an axial filament with a length and a width. The source of a D2S, or D2R HID Capsule is a globular point. Want to see how precise a filament has to be placed? Take a look at the two filaments in an H4 bulb and see how close they are – that’s all the difference between a high beam and a low beam pattern. Now take a look at a 9004 or 9007 – the two filaments are right next to each other. The difference between a high and a low beam is fractions of a millimeter.



There are a number of fly-by-nights out there modifying the standard D2S HID Capsule to fit in some of the other bulb mounts, but those are dangerous to use in a DOT lamp. They put out 2½ times the light of a halogen bulb – but because of the DOT pattern, oncoming traffic is going to be dazzled by the extra light. That’s all fine and good if you don’t mind blinding oncoming traffic. Best case, everyone flashes at you – worst case, they swerve into your lane because they can’t see. Somewhere in between, a state trooper runs you down and makes you get your lights fixed – there goes your investment down-the-drain.



You may have seen Hella HID conversions kits on the internet. I spoke to Hella and asked them why I couldn’t handle them. They said they don’t make those kits. Some one is buying our ballasts and capsules, modifying the capsules and passing them off as a Hella products



Another problem you are going to have is the wavelength of the light output is a short wavelength – which means it dazzles and diffracts much more than the warmer, longer wavelength of a halogen source. One of the reasons gas discharge technology is only on high-end cars is that most are now going to a “self-leveling” system for the headlamps to avoid dazzling oncoming traffic in acceleration situations and when cresting a hill. You won’t have this and the risk that you will dazzle oncoming traffic is enhanced because you don’t. Hold your breath the first time you dazzle an oncoming state trooper and you can’t dip you running light.
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Discussion Starter #6
OBSWIZ

Thanks for the right up. You have great valid points.

Is there a part number for both of the bulbs ( head lights, fog) and the harness along with how to rig the switch for the fog.

Where can i get one from and how much?

I am looking for the most light possible but still be reliable.

Thanks again.
 

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Lost Cause
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The retrofit technology of HID is changing. 3 months ago one could argue all those points, but already today you can get products that maintain the beam pattern and distinct upper cut-off line in a Hi-Low HID system.
 

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OBSWIZ, you absolutely can get a dual element HID, in fact I have that on my truck right now.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Razarscs,

What kit did you get? How do you like it?
 

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PSN Mega Miler
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Light is light. If its 4300k hid or a 4300k halogen its the same light. It doesnt reflect off stuff differently or anything else. Hids use less power, make less heat and last longer. You wont find halogen lighting at sporting events in large stadiums either....

If you cant afford hids then a good halogen is a good choice. But if your willing to spend the money. Hids are what you buy.

As for the reason the new model vehicles with factory hids have auto leveling its because hids are so much BRIGHTER than the old halogens that the cheaper bottom end non luxed out cars they make for the masses that cant afford the higher end nice lighting have.

The old halogen lights have a far worse problem with vertical unwanted light polution than the hids. But they are so dim in comparison to a quality hid kit that no one cares if the bounderies have bleed over, because they dont bother people.

Hids hurt when you get them in your face. The auto leveling on the factory vehicles solve this somewhat. They still have the same problem that shows up when the person in front of you is actually lower than your vehicle but your on level ground. Also they have a limit on how far they can auto adjust so you can wind up blinding people with the factory ones too.

A quality hid kit has a very pronounced light cut off that halogens lack. If you aim them responsibly you wont get flashed and you wont bother people that much. But face it when you put a gazillion candle power on the front of a vehicle its still going to be painfully bright even if the headlights are aimed directly at the ground.

Try putting some kc daylighters on the front of your truck and running them as headlights. They are halogens just a ton brighter than anything available for normal headlights. Your going to be supporting those statetroopers for years to come.

As for the hi/low issue. There isnt one with any of the high quality hid kits. They are high and low beam lights. The bulb itself shifts in the housing to change from low to high. This actual has an advantage over dual element halogens as they turn off for a second going from high to low or vice versa. One element goes off and the other element comes on. Hids with high/low just move the bulb. No flash, no gap in lighting. Just smooth transition as the bulb changes from high to low.

Hids are far more shock resistant than halogen bulbs, last far longer and use less power. Even a 55watt hid system onces energized only pulls 35watts or less normally. So thats 70 watts total power consumption or load on your electrical system. An 80w/100w halogen pulls a full 100watts on highbeam. Thats 200watts total power when your driving down the road at night.

So the halogens are using 130watts more power than the hids system. Thats 130watts you no longer have available to power your wipers, a/c, fan and other electrical needs in a bad storm.

If your alternator goes out at night you can drive farther on a hid based system than you can a halogen system.

The hids should be better on your headlight housings and cause them to yellow less. Not exactly sure on this but it sounds good :D

Anyway Im a hid fan as anyone could tell from the above post. If there was something I thought was better than the hids for headlights Id buy it. I havent seen anything that touches them in my opinion. Ive run piaa, silvania, hella, ge, and a few others. I couldnt find anything I remotely liked.

Now I will admit I doubt I'll upgrade my bmw. Its running halogen bulbs and it does pretty good but it has a vastly superior headlight housing than anything available for our trucks. It would probably be even better with hids but I cant see changing them since they do all I want.
 

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Lost Cause
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Got my Retro 5000k HID kit in today. Holy crap what a difference. Can't make any comment on the brightness to oncoming traffic, but on the test drive, no one flashed me. I did aim them down in the driveway before heading out though.
 

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Lost Cause
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One thing that they dont tell you is you need to trim the retainer . Also, you will need to remove the batteries and air cleaner to make it easier to mount the ballasts and install the bulbs.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Beta
I hope its not two blue in color. What are you going to do for th efog bulbs?
 

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Lost Cause
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5000k is very white.

I haven't decided what I'm doing with the fog lamps. At this time I will leave them as is. I have 5000k H3 kit for the driving lamps.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Beta

for Fog i found some 4000k silverlines at pepboys

i will update on how it comes out.
 

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PSN Mega Miler
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My sig line has a full howto with detailed pics on installing the retro kit for anyone fixing to install one. Just click the 4300k hid link in my sig.
 

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Lost Cause
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I have pondered for a bit. I am putting the HIDs into the fog lamp. The PIAA 520 SMR with Extreme white bulbs actually compliment the HID high beams the way they are. By having the HIDs in the fogs, I can use them with just my marker lights on if weather conditions are severe.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Well
i finished the install this weekend. I purchased the 500k slim design and everything was a direct bolt on with no cutting or modifing at all. Took about 1 hour and adjusted them down. I drove 500 miles last night and didnt get a single flash.

These things are awesome. You can see everything from shoulder to shoulder on the road.
and let me tell ya when you flash for some slow drivers to get out of the way on the interstate, Lets just say that they get the hint.
 
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