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Discussion Starter #1
Had a reputable allignment shop press in my new Moog ball joints and replace the the front axle u-joints. When I showed the shop owner all my parts. He instantly said "why did you buy Moog ball joints?. I would have advised Ford. His opinion was that he had to many complaints with Moog joint being to tight.

I said well these are the Ball joint I have, thanks for the advice. He was not trying to sell me anything just stating his opinion. I brought him all the ball joints,new u-joints and my axles.

He said "I just wanted to tell you that so you do not come back and say the ball joints are tight and the truck does not return to center" or something to that nature. I said "No problem"

I installed the steering knuckles last night with a torque wrench to spec. And the steering knuckles were TIGHT . Alot of resistance. Both left and right were tight. Seemed to be the lower joints were the problem. Went ahead with installing axles, bearings and tires.

Went for a drive and just as suspected the steering is tight. Does not return to center well. Takes alot of effort to turn. Feels like there is a flat tire.

I have driven around 100 miles today, tons of turns, hoping everthing would loosen up, but not yet.

Anybody ever had had this happen. I think the steering knuckles are way to tight. sorry for the long post Thanks
 

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(520)465-7971
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Give it time, the Moog has an updated design with an extra set of bushings. They will last longer than other joints, imo. They might take a little bit to break in at first but they will be better in the long run. I know it sounds silly but you greased them right?
 

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PSN Pretender
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They were installed incorrectly.

They need to knock the upper alignment "pucks" loose, torque the lower BJ's, then torque the uppers.

More than likely they torqued them in the wrong sequence, and they are now binding.
 

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My other twin turbo...
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After I went through the headaches of front axle rebuilds with aftermarket parts and had them bag out earlier than they should have, I switched to original equipment parts only, when I work on my vehicles. Tier 1 parts ( parts that get sold to auto makers directly for assembly) are held to the highest quality control standards conceivable. Question; I haven't worked on a solid front axle in years, Do they still have a insert in the top ball joint taper that you adjust for the preload?
 

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your talking about the little threaded piece right the super dutys don't have them but the obs trucks still do
 

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Discussion Starter #6
They were installed incorrectly.

They need to knock the upper alignment "pucks" loose, torque the lower BJ's, then torque the uppers.

More than likely they torqued them in the wrong sequence, and they are now binding.
I installed the the knuckles and axles after the shop pressed in the ball joints/u-joints
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I could have done it wrong. But i followed the torque sequence given.

I am not Bad Mouthing Moog joints or the shop that pressed them in, just trying to find out what I did wrong.

and yes I did grease them. Looks like I am going to take the knuckles off and try it again.

One good thing happened after the new seals were installed. My (ESOF) 4x4 works again. ye haw! Thanks Guys!!
 

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Crazy wid da cheeze wiz
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I have Moog joints on my truck, and when I went in to get the front-end aligned, he said that everything was too tight, and that he couldnt align it if it wouldn't return to center. Ended up being my steering box was too tight. Check that just to make sure.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I have Moog joints on my truck, and when I went in to get the front-end aligned, he said that everything was too tight, and that he couldnt align it if it wouldn't return to center. Ended up being my steering box was too tight. Check that just to make sure.
Sounds just like my problem. I will look into that thanks!!
 

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(520)465-7971
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I have Moog joints on my truck, and when I went in to get the front-end aligned, he said that everything was too tight, and that he couldnt align it if it wouldn't return to center. Ended up being my steering box was too tight. Check that just to make sure.
Unless you replaced or tightened the adjustment nut on the steering box, nothing should have changed from before you replaced the ball joints....
 

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the moog ball joints are all tight right off the get go they will be tight for a couple thousend miles.... but they front end hand saying he couldn't align it was total BS i align them all the time and never have a problem aligning them they will align and almost never have a problem with them not returning to center... 0373 i would just drive it for a little while first mine took about 2k to loosen up
 

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Crazy wid da cheeze wiz
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Unless you replaced or tightened the adjustment nut on the steering box, nothing should have changed from before you replaced the ball joints....
Yes you are right. I was thinking that he got the front end aligned too. Sorry about that. Even though you should get your front end aligned after you do anything to the front of the truck.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
roughneck0913;9753 ... 0373 i would just drive it for a little while first mine took about 2k to loosen up[/QUOTE said:
Thanks.

I don't know if my torque wrench is accurate (it was cheap)

Only one of the camber adjustment sleeves came loose when removing the knuckles. I marked both sleeves before hand so if they did come loose I would know were to line up when reinstalling the knuckles. I did not break the other sleeve before reinstalling, but both side were equally tight after being torqued.

I have not done anything to the steering box, that is over my head. I will just drive it for awhile, and hope they loosen up.

THANKS GUYS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 

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they will loosen up.... just give em a bit of time i also greesed mine everyother week or so
 

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Having worked in a production shop we started running into this about four years ago. We had two Super Duties that did this with Moog parts-replaced with Ford parts and the return to center was fine. Spicer parts don't seem to have this problem and I will be puttting these in my personal rig when the time comes. FYI we've also had problems with the Dodge Dana 60. As to if they will loosen up over time I don't know, but when a customers truck leaves the shop driving worse than when it came in there is something wrong.
 

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Having worked in a production shop we started running into this about four years ago. We had two Super Duties that did this with Moog parts-replaced with Ford parts and the return to center was fine. Spicer parts don't seem to have this problem and I will be puttting these in my personal rig when the time comes. FYI we've also had problems with the Dodge Dana 60. As to if they will loosen up over time I don't know, but when a customers truck leaves the shop driving worse than when it came in there is something wrong.
I completely agree with you....... I never relese a customers ride if it's not right... and the stiff ball joints is not on every set there kinda hit and miss... and the spicer joints i have also had a bunch of problems out of them i prolly do 7-8 set of ball joints a week.... using ford and moog parts the dodge uppers and lowers are all starting to be a pain either using dodge or any aftermarket....
 

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your talking about the little threaded piece right the super dutys don't have them but the obs trucks still do
There's another tool I don't need anymore! There is a rotating torque spec for the bare knuckle isn't there? Should be able to detect that the knuckle is too tight before you proceed with your repair, and readjust the ball joint preload until it is correct before you button everything up and "discover" that things are too tight.
 

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all I can honnestly remember off the top of my head is the torque specs for the nuts on the upper and lower ball joints i cannot honestly remember with this massive hang over if there even is a rotatonal spec on the super dutys
 

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Discussion Starter #18
There's another tool I don't need anymore! There is a rotating torque spec for the bare knuckle isn't there? Should be able to detect that the knuckle is too tight before you proceed with your repair, and readjust the ball joint preload until it is correct before you button everything up and "discover" that things are too tight.
I do not know the bare knuckle torque spec.

You are 100% correct, I should have stopped when I noticed how tight
the knuckles were. Cleaned up and posted this before I finished.:doh:

First time doing this and I am still learning. Thanks
 

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I do not know the bare knuckle torque spec.

You are 100% correct, I should have stopped when I noticed how tight
the knuckles were. Cleaned up and posted this before I finished.:doh:

First time doing this and I am still learning. Thanks
I'm sorry if I came off as critical. I had a few GM trucks and a twin traction beam Ford since I worked on solid front axles, but if I remember correctly you would hook a pull scale to the steering link on the knuckle. I bet a really good fish weighing scale would work. My shop manuals are all at work and the only one I could check is a GM. I would give you the spec if I had it, good luck with your repairs.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
I'm sorry if I came off as critical. I had a few GM trucks and a twin traction beam Ford since I worked on solid front axles, but if I remember correctly you would hook a pull scale to the steering link on the knuckle. I bet a really good fish weighing scale would work. My shop manuals are all at work and the only one I could check is a GM. I would give you the spec if I had it, good luck with your repairs.

Not at all. Thanks for the advice on the tires also. I appreciate all the advice everyone has given!!!!!!! Thanks Glad I joined the NATION:ford:
 
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