Ford Power Stroke Nation banner

1 - 3 of 3 Posts

11 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
If this is meant to be in another forum please let me know. As of February 2017, I decided I was going to convert the transmission in my 2000 Ford Excursion with a 7.3 to a straight drive. The majority of this swap has already been covered in this forum thread here > Excursion Diesel ZF6 swap - Pirate4x4.Com : 4x4 and Off-Road Forum. I'm gonna basically cover the exact same thing and include the tidbits that were left out and am going to try to remember every single detail that was included with this swap, so here we go.

First off my Excursion if i'm not mistaken has the same chasis as a F250 meaning all the hardware and mounts for everything for a manual are all there. Ford never made a single Excursion that had a manual transmission that I know of, as far as i'm concerned mine is one of maybe 5 in existence so I knew for a fact that it COULD be done. I got sick of having to deal with all the bull**** that came with the 4R100 transmission. The 4R100 would be a decent transmission if a couple of key components were updated. I made the decision to do the swap so I called up Joes Transmission and Differential services up in Butler PA and they were super helpful and still are. They sent me a freshly rebuilt ZF6 transmission wrapped and secure on a pallet for around $3000 WITH the core charge. Below ill make a parts list for what you need from my notes.

-ZF6 Trans $2871-DONE
-Clutch Kit $666.25-Free Shipping-DONE
-Master Cylinder and Slave $94.48 With shipping-DONE
-Clutch pedal assembly $135-Free Shipping-DONE
-Input Shaft with 24 splines $130-DONE
-1/8" Spacer or 10ga Spacer: 202a/f81z7007ab-part number(Dealership useless)- DONE
-Flywheel $290- DONE
-Manual Floor Hump $?-Make one if needed
-Reflash PCM AND Tuner $175-PCM
-Shifter Assembly
As of right now-
-Shifter Linkage $61.98- DONE
-Shifter Arm $77.32- DONE
-Shifter Knob $16.80- DONE
-Shifter Boot $46.97- DONE
-Shifter Inner Boot - DONE
-Shifter Top Housing $46.58- DONE
-Inner Shift Lever Boot Ring-7D152
-Shift Lever Blocks-7C371
Total the cost more or less was around $5000, but that is with the majority of the parts being brand new. You could possibly get a parts truck for $2-3K and just swap the parts over but I chose the better safe than sorry route as usual. I have to give huge props to DP Tuner down in Georgia, they did a terrific job with reflashing the computer, the truck runs smooth as butter, no lag whatsoever. I ran into a handful of hiccups with this conversion, like I said most of this stuff has already been covered in the forum I posted a link to above. Below i'm going to layout the list I had made already of the "steps".

1.Roll vehicle into shop due to computer being sent off to be reprogramed for a manual instead of an automatic transmission-DONE
2.Empty transmission fluid out of automatic transmission-DONE
3.Disassemble rear and forward driveshaft-DONE
4.Disassemble carriage holding up transfercase-DONE
5.Detach transfercase from transmission and set aside-DONE
6.Set transmission jack up underneath transmission still in place-DONE
7.Disassemble crossmember-DONE
8.Unbolt transmission and set aside for good-DONE
9.Detach spacer between motor and transmission and set aside-DONE
10.Clean area around back of motor-DONE
11.Attach 1/8 spacer to the front of the manual transmission-DONE
Attach flywheel, clutch, pressure plate
12.Attach clutch fork into bellhousing of transmission-DONE
13.Fill manual transmission with transmission fluid-DONE
14.Attach master&slave cylinder where needed-DONE
15.Lift transmission up to the back of the motor-DONE
16.Bolt transmission in place and attach crossmember back in place-DONE
(17). Cut new holes for crossmember bolts-DONE
(17.5).Adjust cooling lines to fit into new transmission-DONE
18.Mark out on floor inside cab where is needed to cut out for transmission shifter-DONE
19.Cut floor minimally for shifter assembly-DONE
20.Take apart transfercase and replace the input shaft with the new input shaft-DONE
21.Reassemble transfercase and fill with fluid-DONE
22.Attach transfercase to new manual transmission-DONE
23.Attach carriage up underneath transfercase
24.Install driveshafts back in place-Done
25.Finish assembling shifter assembly--Done
26.Weld new floor hump over the shifter assembly and seal it-Done
27.Roll carpet back over temporarily-Done
28.Jump wires needed on the gear selector plug and ziptie to frame-DONE
29.Plug PCM back into place and make sure it is tight and snug-DONE
30.Hook batteries back up and hope for the best-DONE

Rolled the truck into the shop bay since the computer was out of it to be reprogrammed. Once you send the PCM off and have it reflashed, you CANNOT use it while the automatic trans is still in there. Took the driveshafts off, drained all the fluid.

Took the transfercase out, then the transmission. Took both spacers off in between the bellhousing and motor. Cleaned the area of excess oil and crud. Attached the thin 1/8 spacer. Attached the flywheel, clutch, and pressure plate. There is a small plastic piece for the clutch fork that holds it in place inside the bellhousing, I do not know if it is necessary or not but I got it anyways. Stuck the clutch fork in, got it ready for installation.

The hump is the tricky part for the trans tunnel, you can either cut out a big gaping hole in the floor if you have a hump made for it, or from a stickshift parts truck, or you can go my route and cut a small hole big enough for the shifter housing and then raise the floor with a car jack, and a wooden block which surprisingly works well. The ZF6 is a tall and a big transmission so be sure to have the floor raised adequately. Raise the trans up, bolted it in place.

The transfer case HAS to be taken apart to replace the input shaft, the correct input shaft you need has 24 splines to hook up to the transmission. I thought it was going to be a nightmare but after referring to a diagram it was cake. Got the transfer case reassembled, mounted it up to the back of the transmission.

The crossmember WILL need some fab work, just measure your whole where the transmission will mount to it and make the necessary cuts. Mounted the crossmember and the rear driveshaft. (Both driveshafts WILL mount up, no need for custom driveshafts thankfully) Put the starter back into place. The two cooling lines you need to adjust are fairly easy. One you can easily bend back in place and the other will needed to be shortened quite a bit.

The clutch pedal and master & slave cylinder are a bit of a bitch to get in and probably requires two people. The master & slave I bought were pre-bled and ready to go.

The wiring is the important part, you in order to get the truck to start and drive you need to splice the DARK BLUE WIRE WITH ORANGE STRIPE and the TAN WIRE WITH THE RED STRIP on the wiring harness that was on the side of the automatic trans. The downside of this is the truck will start in gear even when the clutch pedal is not depressed. Cruise control will not work nor will your back up light buts there is a fix for that, I just haven't gotten to it yet, you'll find it in the previous forum I posted. Once I spliced the wires I wrapped them up and strapped them to the frame.

As for the transmission hump, this might sound hilbily-ish but we found an old metal toolbox that was lying around and split the lid on it and molded it to the floor and welded it down for a fully functional hump. Caulked around it and put down sound proofing mats around it to muffle the noise. Rolled the carpet back over, made the adjustments and cut the whole out for it, put everything back inside and it looks just as if it came out of the showroom.

Put the PCM back in, hooked it up and hooked the batteries back up, started right back up after 6 months of sitting. Drove it around, drives like a damn champ. I did buy a southbend clutch rated for 400 HP and 800 ft lbs of torque, my truck is stock as stock gets so i'll need some upgrades to beef it up to really feel the full potential. The clutch people say takes around 500 +/- miles to break in, but at 300 it drives no problem what so ever.

IMPORTANT: I noticed a small leak coming from the top of the trans from the back end on the passenger side, thought for sure it was a seal on the transfercase but it turns out there is a hole in the trans that is for the REVERSE SWITCH, a very small 12$ piece that lets the reverse lights work when shifted to the reverse gear. Got the part, installed it, no more leak.

I'm sorry if this is too much to read but i'm trying to help those that are interested in performing this swap so they won't have to run into the problems I came across.

If you have any questions please message me.

1,568 Posts
I learned something. I thought it had more then 24 splines. I just happen to have the TC input shaft here, counted it, 24.
apparently the 6.0 version has 34 but I havent verified that

2,060 Posts
I know this is an old thread, but can someone opine: Is it worth it?
1 - 3 of 3 Posts