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At a complete loss right now.

5625 Views 290 Replies 7 Participants Last post by  bismic1
Need some help desperately. I have a 2003 f350 with the 6.0 in it. I was having issues with it and found that the stand pipes and lines were bad. The truck then started but ran like trash. Tested Everything and it would only have 1500psi wot. So I decided I was done playing games I installed a new hpop, ipr, ipc (both with new pig tails.) cleaned everything really good. Now the truck cranks but won’t start. Gets up to 85% while cranking. When the icp is plugged in it reads 10psi while waiting once cranking it only goes to 280 to 320. Definitely not enough pressure to fire it. When I unplugged the icp still no start. Could I have wired the icp pigtail wrong. Did one wire at a time following off the old icp. What could it be. Since it still don’t start with the icp unplugged. Possible pcm maybe. Please help. Need this for Monday for work
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As long as the hole is plugged

I see a "hole" but does it go thru ? or is stopped off
As long as the hole is plugged

I see a "hole" but does it go thru ? or is stopped off
It appears to be blocked off. But I’m getting air through it when under pressure
Ok. I’m back lol. So I’ve put 3 hpop’s on this here truck. They all seem to be leaving air from the front behind the gear drive. Is some air there normal. My original, the one from dcp and now an oem one. I’m losing my mind
Search Axial Piston Pump -- plenty of vids showing how one of those types works
the valve plate on the end of the cylinder is a common leak point
also the fit of the pistons in the cylinder block will contribute
Some leakage is built in in the tolerances -- also some pumps have lube orifices for the slippers
and, ...air will leak thru where oil will not

So, just how much air do you hear ? and at what pressure ?
a vid would be nice so we can also hear the leak
It’s not a large amount. It gets to about 75 psi on the shop air gauge before I start to to hear it. I can barely feel it. I actually had to use a piece of toilet paper to find it.
Side question. I pulled the oil relief valve. Should the spring shoot out. I also had to work the piston out. Could that contribute to the oil pressure. But I was getting oil in the filter.
There should be some resistance (pushing outward) when pulling that regulator out. Did you stick a magnet inside the bore to see if anything is in there?
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No I couldn’t find my stick magnet. Gonna grab one tomorrow. The plug and spring came out at one time. The plunger I had to put my finger in and then wiggle it out
The plunger should slide easily in the bottom of the bore -- it may bind up some near the top if it cocks , but if you can hold it centered -- it should slide the entire length easily

Should be able to get your little finger in the bore to feel for burrs -- def get a magnet in there to check for metal
No metal in the bore. Cleaned it out really good. Now I have a dumb question. If I’m getting oil to the filter housing that means there is no issue with the low pressure side correct. My dash gauge doesn’t come up but the monitor shows 2-300 psi when cranking at the icp
"My dash gauge doesn’t come up "
the switch is located next to the oil filter, about the 2 o'clock position
this switch trips at 5-7 psi
you can disconnect the wire and make the gauge operate -- only goes to half way -- just an idiot gauge

"the monitor shows 2-300 psi when cranking at the icp "
there is a leak in the oil system or the pump is not capable
...or the IPR will not close off -- mechanical or electrical problem
The air test is used to determine if there is a leak in the system -- have you done that lately ?

"If I’m getting oil to the filter housing that means there is no issue with the low pressure side "
Not necessarily
we use this test to get a quick evaluation of the pump -- should fill in less than 10 seconds, with 5 being more "normal"
oil flow does not equal pressure -- the pump can flow good in an open state -- like with the filter out
but still not build pressure -- damaged housing or blocked pressure relief
Does your relief valve slide easily all the way in ?

A pressure gauge is really the best option to tell if the low pressure system is working as expected
there is a test port on the front of the oil cooler housing -- #06 ORB-9/16x18 oring fitting
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just got everything to hook up a gauge to check my low side oil pressure. Gotta change the starter though burned it up errrrrrrr. What should my pressure be at on the low side. Thanks again
The relief is set to 75 psi
but at cranking speed you will not see this much
the idiot gauge on the dash trips at 5-7 psi

So, I would expect to see somewhere between 5 and 75
it really depends on how worn the pump and engine bearings , as to what your pressure will be -- other trucks will be different
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The minimum engine oil pressure specifications are 12 psi at 700 rpm, 24 psi at 1,200 rpm and 45 psi at 1,800 rpm with the engine at operating temperature (oil temp at 190 at least IIRC).
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Well the base oil pressure numbers are good. I ended up buying another hpop and air tested it. After installing. It held 160 psi for about 20 minutes before losing about 1-2 lbs of pressure. Put it all back together. Cranked it over hpop pressure came up 12-1500 while cranking. Keeps trying to fire but won’t fire up. After a while I noticed the icp pressure wouldn’t come up above 350. Left it sit overnight and tried this morning and it was back to the high pressures and wanted to fire but didn’t. I also noticed the Ipr was staying at 85%. Is there a way to test the Ipr and see if it is working properly
Looks like the video I am trying to post is now private. I'll look for another one on testing the IPR.

You can test it by hooking up 9V power to the electronics and hook up 100 psi air (with a hose and some adapter fittings) to the inlet. The inlet to the valve is where the screen is installed.
Did a search and found the videos lined below. Best to use an IPR pigtail vs using alligator clips! Ford sells these IPR pigtails pretty cheap. 6E7Z-12A690-DA

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Ok thanks. Just did the bench test and it is not closing it just stays pissing air out. I’m gonna get a new one tomorrow from the dealer. But I’m a little confused if it was staying open why would I get the pressure to build up to 1200 or so but not fire. The monitor is reading that it’s at 85%. Which I believe is fully closed. But it never comes of that
You have to look at the ICP sensor volts to get a true pressure. The PCM is programmed to read an acceptable level (and ignore the sensor output) in an attempt to enable the engine to start. This is because the sensors sometimes fail when there is no other issue with the high pressure system.

Without knowing the sensor output, you are just guessing.
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