You'll have to pull the turbo and pedestal.


Be prepared to cuss alot and lay on the engine for a while

 

I found lots of threads with tips that were very helpful via google. I could regurgitate some of them, but it's just easier to tell you to look like many of us have.

 

Use a 10mm swivel socket, extension and a 1/4" or 3/8" drive ratchet to remove the firewall side pedestal bolts. Reinstall by taping bolts with electrcal tape to hold bolt above bottom surface of the pedestal flange. Leave enough tape hanging to allow removal of tape after pedestal is slid into place. Be careful to not dislodge the oringswhen reinstalling the turbo.. The front bolts are easy.

The turbo flange bolts (lower large ones) can be removed by using a shorty or cut in half combo 15 mm wrench. Just tap the wrench with a 4oz. small hammer. The upper bolts need a 13mm. Don't loosen the exhaust inlet adaptor from the uppipes.

The EBPV can be removed with a 10mm socket and extension, 3/8" drive after dropping the downpipe.

I would separate the turbo and pedestal just to make sure the orings are installed. Also have two sets of pedestal orings before you start.

 

You do not have to remove the pedestal, it shouldn't take more thane 30-45 min total. The only tip I have is to soak the collector flange bolts in rust penatrant as those two bolts and nuts are normally rusted in there.

 

i just removed my turbo last weekend to replace the fuel pump and bowl.

i pulled the spider, intake boot.

disconnected the downpipe, just left it hanging, took the three bolts off to remove the EBPV (disconnect the quick couple to actual arm on bottom)

used a 1/4 drive swivel to get the rear two pedestal bolts,

then a 3/8 drive swivel to get the lower flange nuts off.

going back on i used a rubber band around the two rear pedestal mount bolts to hold them up and out of the way. put them in to where they dont stick out the bottom then wrap the rubber band around the head, this will keep them up, then just pull the rubber band off once in place.

they wont go back in with the turbo in the truck.

i took it off, swapped the pump and bowl, then reinstalled the turbo in one saturday.

i have a ####load of tools at my disposal though. the swivel heads are KEY! i have deep, shallow, metric, standard, 3/8 and 1/4 drives ALL in swivels and it seemed like i used every style. lol. and a lot more cursing.

 

Wow, you went through a lot just to replace your fuel bowel and pump. That should be 20 min job tops. Only reason I see to remove the pedestal other than replacement is to completely remove the fuel line w/ big banjo.

 

yes i replaced the graphite gaskets and rubber ends at the heads when i replaced the pump, as everyone probably should... i had a complete setup from another motor i have, put it in ALL as one, pump, bowl and hard lines together.

plus i find it VERY hard to believe you can get the fuel bowl and pump out and back in in 20 minutes.

 

I do it all the time. I just finished a job last weekend and have about 4 1/2 hours in it total. That includes removing and gutting the pedestal/EBPV, rebuilding the turbo, replacing the fuel line seals along with cleaning and rebuilding the fuel bowel. Being a Tech for a living teaches you how to work fast to make your money.

 

this was my first time doing said job. congrats on your grand "tech" experience. and from being and engine builder and machinist, I've learned to slow down, do things right the first time. Shops that just slam #### through are not good for customers, im glad you like making money though.

maybe some helpful pointers to the OP?

 

I haven't been a tech in almost a year. And that job a was freeby for a friend. It was done right, along with everything else I do. I wasn't trying to be a d¡ck earlier. I was just stating that the pedestal does not have to be removed. That's a sick looking Camaro, I take it you built that?

 

As for helpful pointers, I cut the fuel lines to the bowl, they should be replaced anyway being rubber, then take the two 13mm bolts out and unplug the IPR valve and main bowl connector. Lift the bowl straight up. Then take the 1 1/4" banjo bolt out(that bolt can be removed with peristalsis in place, just takes about 3 1/8th turns before you can spin it by hand) and be careful of the sealing washers. Now take the two 10mm bolts out of the fuel pump and be sure the plunger is in the pump before completely removing, or the plunger will fall in the oil pan. Once the pump is out of the way, you can take a 10mm ratchet wrench and remove the 4 turbo bolts(the front two can be removed completely and the back two have to rest on the valley. The rest is already stated.

 

My dad and I yes, and thank you. That car is my life.

 

I will put another spin on it.

I can get the 2 rear pedestal bolts in while the turbo is in the truck. And it is not a big dea
l either.

I just had my turbo off for the second time in 3 months(first time for rebuild , WW2 and 25 other things, 2nd time for doing away with California pulse dampener and addition of 1.0 housing)

 

@headcase....would you care to explain how you remove the turbo on an obs 7.3 without removing the pedestal? Im very curious.

 

I'd like to know that also. I can't imagine trying to get to the two bolts on the bottom side of the pedestal that hold it on.

The way he's doing is by removing the fuel filter canister and fuel pump. Once those two items are removed, you can get under the pedestal and unbolt the turbo. I doubt you can get the bolts out but the turbo will lift off.

Billy T.
gnxtc2@aol.com

 

I'd like to know that also. I can't imagine trying to get to the two bolts on the bottom side of the pedestal that hold it on.

 

Gnxtc is correct. It cuts time down tremendously. The two front bolts will come out completely and the back two just rest in the valley. I already posted a removal process in post #12.

 

interesting... not trying to be argumentative but you think that way is quicker then removing the pedestal and turbo THEN the bowl/pump? if all three need to come out...

i see what you guys are saying. didnt think of that.

 

I don't see how you could do this without swivels. This is what I did to make things "easier".

 

Remove the outlet of the turbo and that bolt is easily accessible. It's the other side of the rear pedestal bolt that's hard to get to and does require a 1/4" drive swivel socket. You can't even see it with the EBPV pedestal.

 

Got started on this today. What a PITA. Need to get a swivel 15mm for the bottom two flange bolts. Still have to get the DS rear pedestal bolt out. Taking a break because the PS rear pushed my patience to the max.
Will get back to this tomorrow.

 

it tested my patience also, holy smokes. just had to take a deep breath, but yes a 15mm short swivel 3/8s drive then the drivers rear needs a 1/4 drive swivel, that i adapted up to a 3/8 ratchet to get some leverage.

 

I use a wrench for the bottom two nuts.

 

Ya I agree ^^^^^

 

Ok, so I got them all off. I think I would have paid someone $100 to get the DS rear pedestal bolt off. Once I changed to a short 10mm w/ujoint I got right on it. Deep 10mm there was no way...

So I basically used:
Stubby Kobalt 15mm wrench on two lower flange nuts.
10mm wrench on PS rear pedestal bolt
Short 10mm 1/4" drive socket w/ ujoint & extensions. 3/8 adapter and ratchet.

Will put the new one on next weekend. Going to have the kid get the valley cleaned up nice and pretty.

 

Replace the studs with bolts and place the rear pedestal bolts in the holes before laying the assembly back on the motor.

Anti-sieze is your friend.

Billy T.
gnxtc2@aol.com

 

i took a 15 mm wrench heated it and bent the box end 90 degrees. Welded a socket in the open end, works like a charm to loosen the bottom nuts

 

Wow you guys sure have problems

IIRC I used a 15mm craftsman wrench and HAMMER to get the 2 bottom flange bolts out.

a 15mm socket to get the top 2 out

a 10 mm wrench to get the passenger rear pedestal out

a 1/4 drive w swivel w 10mm socket for drivers rear

the first time I ever had one of these turbos off(about 4 months ago) it took less than 30min once I started wrenching on the turbo itself

 

Wow you guys sure have problems

the first time I ever had one of these turbos off(about 4 months ago) it took less than 30min once I started wrenching on the turbo itself

I'm finding this quote common on this forum.

how about you guys remove your ego's from your suggestions. good lord.

 

What's GFO?

 

Go F#CK Off