Ford Power Stroke Nation banner

1 - 6 of 6 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
174 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys I know that there's a million rust threads out there but I haven't found one yet with solid answers besides replacing parts. It seems most of the rust prevention stuff is bogus as well from posts online...

Help me and I'll help by doing a super detailed writeup in case anyone else ever attempts a full blown rust repair like this!

I've got an 01 f250 that I lacked used vehicle buying skills when I bought, and I've put too much money in to start over.... I've dropped about 12k on top of purchase price to include icon lift, tires, bts trans, intake exhaust, tuner, gauges, hub assblies etc.... My baby is rusted to hell underneath as well as some spots on the cab that actually leak thru occasionally in monsoon type rain into the compass/lie-o-meter

This winter is going to have a lot of weekends of rust removal and pm involved! I've bought a bodywork/paint and welding book and will obviously practice a lot on scrap before I get to the truck.... Just want some pointers in the meantime.

I don't have a garage that fits the truck at home so it's a driveway project bc the military auto hobby shop charges 2bucks an hour and you get fined for everything to include a few drops of spilled oil....

Short list of problems

Rust on everything under the truck, bad enough that liquid wrench and heat remove only 10% of bolts on projects I'm doing like suspension for instance

Rust on lip of tailgate where it meets the bed

Bubbled to hell and rusted hole under center cab light on roof that leaks in torrential downpours

Small rock chips in body that will soon rust

Bed supporting hat channel is almost non existent from deterioration

Basically I understand there's going to be a lot of wire wheels purchased for my grinder, a lot of rust dust on my driveway, and I'm not going to be a light skinned person anymore (not a racist joke lol)...... But are there any tips to make this full blown rust removal and body repair project go easier?!?! ANY spray or brush on compounds that will eat lots of the rust away to save me grinding time?

I know it's going to be expensive but I think it will come out to near the same value as salvaging new parts, plus im on a mission to learn how to do everything my 20x20 garage workshop can handle- just learned fiberglass and made my 10 yr old boat look amazing, and doubled my resale value and longitivity (sp?). Plus I haven't gel coated the boat yet bc I need to build a temporary plastic sheeting lined paintshop and want to be able to bust out the finish work on the boat, trailer and truck hopefully in a few weeks of solid work so my HOA doesn't put me to death
So I want to learn bodywork, paint and welding anyway, the truck will be trash in ten years anyways if I let the rust go, it can't hurt too bad to do this now!

I'll do my best to make a list of new stuff I need before the list which I have failed to do for jobs like my front end, and suspension which took way longer than they should as a result....

Definately have a friend or two help out, as I learned with a driveway suspension lift- it was a definite learning experience.

Any tips that a guy who hasn't stripped a truck down and attempted this project before should know? Any mods to do while truck is torn apart?
(fuel tank mod while beds out of the way, and bellowed up pipes when I do my tranny are on the list already)

Do you all know a cheaper source for bolts that ford? I paid 27$ for two leaf to shackle bolts!!!! Ouch!!!

-anyone near Jacksonville nc know of a wash rack in the area to get the mud and crap from underneath before I start? I tried once with the pressure washer and it was a miserable experience with all that gunk raining down on me

Final question as far as things that aren't wire-wheelable like brake and fuel lines etc- would y'all reccomend getting new factory ones which damn near as expensive as SS braided line or what?

And my true final question is how do I convince the wife not to leave me while I'm spending every non working hour on yet another tonka project as she calls it?





Sent from my Autoguide iPhone app
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
18 Posts
hey there pb guy! i have a sort of similar issue with my 04 250. i dont know a ton of stuff but ill give you my 2 cents on it. ive done a bunhc of research as well and my neighbor is a auto painter. on my underside i am taking off big chunks of rust with a scraper, then i will run over it with a sander and rough grit in the more open arreas. im mainly just conserned about large flakes and circles of rust. Rustoleum makes a rust reformer product if you dont want to spend a fortune on some "higher class" chemical reformers, and believe me its probable worth the extra money to use something like that but im not going to. after your done scraping and sanding use the rust reformer in black color and spray a couple coats of that on the underside in the areas youve sanded. this will seal in the rust and prevent it from spreading. if you paint over flakes it will chip off and not work properly. should look a lot better than what it did and will prolong any more rusting, but in a couple years or more it might start to show signs.

For the big spots that have rusted through on the outerpanels and under doors etc. there is a couple temporary fixes that will only last for a year on average. the best way to fix that is to have a body shop go ahead and cut out the pieces, replace them, and paint etc.

to my understanding that would be your best option, if anyone has any more info to help would be grateful on my end...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
213 Posts
rust is like cancer. you can keep hiding it but it will never go away. My dad had been doing auto body work for 30 years. I have been doing it for roughly 5 with him. Once it starts there is no stopping it. your best bet is to cut out the bad chuck and weld on a shiny new piece then grind it till its smooth. Bondo over everything (don't buy the wal mart stuff try to get real stuff from a local body shop). Then sand with 80 grit then 180, prime, wet-sand, prime, wet sand, seal, and paint. Trick is to cut out a bigger chunk than rotted. ( a few inches both ways). for the doors just bondo and follow the above procedure. Then before you paint run some silicone on the inside of the doors and tailgate lip. then paint. This is the way my dad has done it for 30 years. If done right it will buy you a solid 3 years. At least thats how long i get here in the rust belt of CNY. I hope this helps.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
213 Posts
then after you paint 2-3 coats, clear coat it twice. when that dries sand it with real fine 2000 grit very lightly and give it a good buff. ( this will eliminate any runs or imperfections in the paint/clear)
 

·
97landyacht
Joined
·
27 Posts
:whs....rust has to be cut out and new metal put in.
 

·
97landyacht
Joined
·
27 Posts
:whs....rust has to be cut out and new metal put in.
 
1 - 6 of 6 Posts
Top