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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
Thank you guys. Please let me know if you have any other thoughts, otherwise I'm taking it next Wednesday back to the shop and have them rip right back into it. I'll try to let you know what happens.
 

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Check the circuit from the tank selector switch back to the valve connector & tear down the tank selector valve itself. The return plunger has to be hanging up, lube the orings with silicon grease, wipe the excess off and should solve the problem.
 

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Check the circuit from the tank selector switch back to the valve connector & tear down the tank selector valve itself. The return plunger has to be hanging up, lube the orings with silicon grease, should solve the problem.
It's a new valve and should be under warranty if the valve is the problem. I wouldn't be tearing into a $400 part hoping that it is the problem unless it is a old one.
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
going to call Riff Raff on Monday and see about the warranty.....brand new valve.... Not saying it's the valve or not off course......super frustrated... this is the last thing i fell like messing with....
 

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It's pretty easy to pop the valve loose to check it. (But potentially messy)
You can blow through it or use low psi shop air. Even a pump up sprayer will work.

Sent from my SM-G988U using Tapatalk
 

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Have you checked the power going to the valve? Perhaps you have a weak connection that is not supplying the current necessary to fully push the valve to one side or the other (disclaimer - I have no idea how these valves are put together).

Cj
 

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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
My gut tells me it's not fully switching due to a bad connector. Or something electrical. But I'm not sure how to test that. Thinking about splicing in a new pigtail connector. I have one. Obviously I can test the truck side pigtail, but don't know if it's making good connectivity when it's fully inserted in the valve? But just to not want to go through the effort if it's not even feasibly the problem? I really thought this would be just swap out the valve and be done.
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
Okay. At a loss now. Valve is not clogged, had the shop replace the pigtail connection at the valve itself, new pick up feet in both tanks, still it is pulling from front and rear tank at the same time. It's no longer pulling just from the rear tank and overflow in the front. Now just pulling from both. Any thoughts at all? Super frustrated.
 

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The only way that it can be pulling from both tanks at the same time is a valve that is stuck in the middle.

That is the only spot that both tanks have in common until it hits the feed line from the valve to the pump.
 

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Discussion Starter · #30 ·
Strange though, I can hear the valve switch strongly when I hit the dash switch? But definitely pulling from both tanks. I've been running the rear tank the last week and it's going down very slowly, but so is the front tank when I switch it. I purposely left them at different volumes so I can track it. Prior to this electric fuel pump would cavitate when I was on the rear tank like it was starving for fuel. Now if I'm on the rear tank I get full pressure with no jumping at the gauge, like it's pulling from both tanks? Electrical work is not my forte... But definitely seems like the valve is switching strongly. I know it doesn't make sense, either switching or it's not..
 
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