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Discussion Starter #1
Hello All,
I have a MY 2003 6.0. I have owned it for nearly 4 years and 60k miles. It just turned 250k. I keep my filters oil & fuel changed every 5k. Use Rotella and try to stay on top of my maintenance. Up to this point I have only had minor issues with the engine. A cam position sensor, when I bought it it had a bad FICM from a failed alternator from the PO. I had that repaired at FICM.com and it still works fine. The scenario is as follows. Going to work, starting to run rough so I turned around and took another vehicle to work. I checked it out with my Bosch scanner and it showed P0281 cylinder 7 contribution / balance. I have had an intermittent cylinder 4 contribution/ balance DTC that came up occasionally but never affected how the truck ran so I have ran some Hotshot Secret though on a few oil changes. Now after the code for #7 came up I put my Autel scanner on and did a balance test. It shows 5 & 7 both weak. I already had ordered a new injector harness since I suspected it was the problem with the #4 cylinder so I installed it and no change. It would start but barely and had little throttle response.
Next I tried the IPR adapter with shop air and pulled the valve covers expecting to find a HP oil leak. Nothing. So I put it back together and spent some more time with the scanner ( BTW I am still learning how to use it) so I did another balance test and found that it was basically the same except maybe now either 1 or 5 was showing up weak. I did pull the secondary fuel filter looking for air bubbles in the fuel suspecting that the seal on #7 had failed and was injecting combustion gas into the fuel rail. No bubbles while using starter wire on the battery post. So back to the scanner and I put in a couple things to monitor. FICM voltage all good and steady while cranking. IPR and IPC. It shows 300 psi actual and 1500 requested and today it won't start at all. So I am thinking high pressure oil pump. It is a big job and one I feel I am capable of. I run a shop out of my home and that is why I have the scanner. I don't know diesel engines that well and hate to throw parts at something unless I am certain of the diagnosis. BTW, the engine turns over fast and even so I don't think there is anything wrong with the cylinders or valve train.
My question for the group is whether there is something that I am missing in my troubleshooting? What do I need to replace besides the HP oil pump? Injectors? Or should I wait until after replacing the HP oil pump and do a balance test? Thanks in advance.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
If you have low ICP pressure when cranking and there were no leaks in the air test through the IPR port, then you might just have a bad IPR valve.

That said, the HPOP in the 03 and 04 model years has a poor track record!
Thanks for your reply. I did forget to mention that there was a hole in the IPR screen. I sprayed it out with some cleaner and installed a new screen before installation. Can I make a tester with a IPR pigtail and some battery clips? If so what do I expect to see if it has 12vdc applied? Does that close or open the regulator?
 

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12 volts should close the valve, but you may not see it if the spring is holding it closed anyway.

If you can apply enough air to it to overcome the spring, then 12 volts will close it and block it off. It may take up to 200 psig to overcome the spring.

I would at least check to see if any debris is in it and holding it open. Something obviously went through the screen ....
 

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If there is a hole in the screen replace the ipr. 95% of the time if there is a hole in the screen something went through it and has stuck the valve
 

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Discussion Starter #6
If there is a hole in the screen replace the ipr. 95% of the time if there is a hole in the screen something went through it and has stuck the valve
Thanks for the advice, I was wondering about that. I found what looked like bits of oring or maybe rtv on it. I will order a new one today.
 

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If it’s a very pale green I have seen some that looked almost grey if they had been in for a while but the old dorman kits used to come with a really crappy oil cooler housing seal that would come apart and go through the screen under the oil cooler and go through the screen in the ipr and stop them up. If you get a kit and it doesn’t have the purple seal from international or the pale blue Ford don’t use it
 

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And if you look and it is the pale green it will just keep going through ipr valves till you get in and replace the oil cooler seals
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Which seal on the oil cooling are you referring to? The inlet screen? I bought a new oil cooler kit not long after I bought the truck. It was marginal when I bought it and I was able to back flush it. I will check it out. I know that I bought a ford oil cooler. I have been planning on replacing it when the time came. The PO had an EGR cooler fail and the guy they had work on it welded up the egr but I don't know if he replaced the oil cooler. I have a small coolant leak at the blue hose in the valley. I guess now is a good time to replace it. Is there a better style oil cooler? Less likely to get plugged up.
 

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It will be the seal between the housing and the engine. Not really a better cooler out there than ford. Most of the other coolers will not keep the oil in fords spec. I have used some Dorman coolers when the folks bring them with there trucks and I personally have not had any issues with them since they corrected their seals but I still get fords when it’s up to me. Just NEVER put ford gold antifreeze back in that’s what stops up the coolers. Use a good plain green antifreeze and make sure that you put in a good coolant conditioner with it.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
It will be the seal between the housing and the engine. Not really a better cooler out there than ford. Most of the other coolers will not keep the oil in fords spec. I have used some Dorman coolers when the folks bring them with there trucks and I personally have not had any issues with them since they corrected their seals but I still get fords when it’s up to me. Just NEVER put ford gold antifreeze back in that’s what stops up the coolers. Use a good plain green antifreeze and make sure that you put in a good coolant conditioner with it.
I have been using Rotella ELC since the back flush. Any thoughts on that? I also installed a coolant bypass filter system. BTW, I stay away from most anything Dorman I don't trust them them for anything that goes in my engine. Just not worth it to do to job twice.
 

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Yep. I have never used that so I don’t really have an opinion. Well I was a diesel tech for ford for 8 years and been dealing with them ever since I quit ( around 15 years total worked on 7.3 -6.7 but extensively on the 6.0 and 6.4) and I will tell you now if it is any ford vehicle no matter gas or diesel if it is an electronic part going on your truck never go with aftermarket. I have had so many people bring me stuff and brand new aftermarket parts was the cause of those problem. Never go aftermarket with electronics. Hard parts I have found a few things I will use if I need to and a few things better than factory but very few when considering the overall truck
 

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Yep. I have never used that so I don’t really have an opinion. Well I was a diesel tech for ford for 8 years and been dealing with them ever since I quit ( around 15 years total worked on 7.3 -6.7 but extensively on the 6.0 and 6.4) and I will tell you now if it is any ford vehicle no matter gas or diesel if it is an electronic part going on your truck never go with aftermarket. I have had so many people bring me stuff and brand new aftermarket parts was the cause of those problem. Never go aftermarket with electronics. Hard parts I have found a few things I will use if I need to and a few things better than factory but very few when considering the overall truck
I learned that lesson with the cam position sensor. I installed an O'Reilly part and had to get towed. From then on I only use Ford electronics. Thanks again for your help and happy Thanksgiving.
 
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