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Discussion Starter #1
2003 Excursion 6.0

Ive got a couple issues but didnt want to hijack one of the other three threads here. Hoping we can all come to a conclusion and get us running.

Just did the BPD oil cooler and Adrenaline HPOP, also put new exterior rings on injectors. Everything doen in my SIG was done at the same time.

Starts fine cold, but feels like it has a miss in cylinder #3. When putting DTC i get a P0269 ( Cylinder 3 Contribution/Balance).
There are no misfire codes and the truck seems to idle fine but has a distinct shutter underload, ~50mph.

After ive gotten the truck up to temp and shut it off i get a no start.
ICP = 250 no higher at crank
Let it sit and cool off i can get it high enough to fire off. Starts fine in the mornings
Running 5w-40 Rotella T6

Other Codes:
P0603 - Internal Control Module KAM Malfuntion
P1000 - On Board Diagnostic II Monitor Drive Cycle Test Not complete
B1483 - Brake Pedal Input Circuit Malfunction
U1262 - Standard Communication Protocol Communication
U2016 - Powertrain Control Module Short to Ground
B1342 - Electronic Control Unit Malfunction


Thought about pulling the #3 plug and see if it runs worse.

Also i have a Genisys Evo scan tool, but it dosent seem to allow me to do much with my truck....
 

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"resident smarty pants"
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Sounds like an injector might be leaking high pressure oil.

For B1342 - You need to know which module reported the code. It means an internal module failure and it could be set by the following modules: 4X4 Control Module, ABS Module, HVAC Module, Instrument Cluster, Parking Aid Module, Restraints Control Module, Trailer Brake Control Module and the Vehicle Security Module.

I wouldn't be too concerned over the P1000 or the P0603 codes.

For U1262 - SCP (J1850) Communication Bus Fault: PCM Received Signal for Fault on Bus Circuit (code stored in the Instrument Cluster) - An instrument cluster issue (or shorted wire associated w/ the cluster). TSB Number: 17956

U2016 - Powertrain Control Module Short to Ground. IMO you just have to roll up your sleeves and look for this one (inspect PCM harnesses)
 

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Discussion Starter #3
So...

My regulated fuel return has a leak behind the alternator... It held 70PSI at idle but i dont know underload.

Im pulling the '03 intake to swap with one that doesnt have the crossover. Make this easier in the future.

Once i get the intake off ill try the air test. See if i have any leaks like you said that might contribute to the cylinder 3 issue. Along with the ICP holding steady at 256 when warm.

Also check the IPR screen.

Lastly, the injector harness near #3 had diesel fuel on it from the leak... im wondering if that is causing me any issues also...


On the plus side i can now rip that turbo out in 20min, silver lining!
 

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"resident smarty pants"
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Find the PCM short-to-ground. The other codes could provide a clue of where to look.

According to DieselTechRon, a leak in the high pressure oil system will not cause a single injector contribution code. I am not so sure about that being 100.0% true.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Well I should have checked the system before I ever put it back together... first time rookie mistake!

I also ordered a IPR test fitting 10$. I hear it’s better when tracing down leaks as it removes an false noise from a leaking IPR.

I travel for work and I’ll be leaving Sunday, when I get back the following Monday I’ll let you guys know what I find out.

Nothing like doing something twice.... if anything it will give me a reason to go back and re torque things, like the head studs.


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Discussion Starter #6
Ok just got back! That IPR test tool I made worked like a charm. I was able to tell there was a leak on the passenger side under the valve cover. Once I got it off I was able to tell it was the #3. This is Good since that was the one throwing a contribution code.

When I got the valve cover off I aired the system up with the tool again and could see bubbles coming out of what I thought were the two holes on top of the injector.



Does this sound right? Should there be air coming out of those holes?

Or I guess it probably the O-Ring inside...


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"resident smarty pants"
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It should not leak air, the o-ring is leaking. You can get a replacement set of o-rings, but it is somewhat tedious to remove the retaining clip for replacing them.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Would you say replace the injector or take the tedious route? And does anyone off hand have the part number for those rings? I had just removed and replaced the exterior rings. I must have mangled it up when I put the rail back in...


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"resident smarty pants"
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It is easy to mess them up if they aren't "lubed up" with a lot of oil and if the oil rail isn't put down evenly and straight down.

With the injector removed, it isn't really all that bad of a job. I just get hesitant to recommend doing it w/ the injector still installed because a lot of people lose that clip down into the engine!

Alliant Power - AP0002 (available only in the kit form as far as I know)

https://www.xtremediesel.com/alliant-g28-injector-seal-kit-ap0002?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIuMjj1Ymh4QIVgbfACh0skQlSEAQYASABEgJly_D_BwE
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Thanks you, when I searched I kept getting the oil rail O-rings.

I’m thinking I might order a new injector, and buy this kit. That way I’ll have a spare. Mine only have 60k miles on them... this will get me up and going.

Wish I would have been more careful in the first place ....


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I wish I had $1 for every time I have said the same thing!
 

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It is easy to mess them up if they aren't "lubed up" with a lot of oil and if the oil rail isn't put down evenly and straight down.

With the injector removed, it isn't really all that bad of a job. I just get hesitant to recommend doing it w/ the injector still installed because a lot of people lose that clip down into the engine!

Alliant Power - AP0002 (available only in the kit form as far as I know)

https://www.xtremediesel.com/alliant-g28-injector-seal-kit-ap0002?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIuMjj1Ymh4QIVgbfACh0skQlSEAQYASABEgJly_D_BwE
While I still wouldn't do this in the engine either, I'll also say that I've successfully changed out a couple dozen of those top seals without removing the clip. I just carefully pried the old one out, got the new one nice and warm, and well lubed, and then folded it a little bit. They go in pretty easily and I've only ever had one go south on me during this process. It may not be the "right" way, but it's easy and it works. lol
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Ordered a motorcraft reman injector(hope that’s ok...)

The injector number is CN-5020RM, that I ordered. When I got ready to put it in I noticed the o-ring in the plug was a different color so I looked and the injector plug has the notch in the wrong spot for the harness.

Did I order the wrong one for a 2003 Excursion? Or is this now just the only one you can get? Do I just turn the connector?






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"resident smarty pants"
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Who did you buy it from. With that part number, I do not believe it was remanufactured by Ford's approved rebuilder (Pure Power).

You can get the real deal for $180 from Auto Nation White Bear Lake.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Got it from AutoZone. It was listed as Motorcraft remanufactured injector.

I’m afraid it’s been swapped or just wrongfully packaged. Since ‘03 injectors are in and of their own.




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A motorcraft remanufactured means it began its life as a motorcraft injector and was rebuilt by SOMEONE.

Motorcraft (and International/Navistar) uses Pure Power (who signed an agreement w/ Alliant to distribute the injectors) to rebuild their injectors. They are about the only ones worth buying. Autozone gets their remanufactured injectors from someone else. Sorry to say, but IMO they are junk.

Also, a late year model injector can be installed in an 03 motor with no problems.
 

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So the fact that it came in a properly labeled motorcraft box doesn’t mean that it is a motorcraft certified reman injector? Some other company uses motorcraft boxes? Seems like that would be a lawsuit?

If it was reman Ford injector packaged in another company packaging, stating it is a remakes OEM injector I could see that being an quality issue.


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Discussion Starter #18 (Edited)
Duplicate post
 

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"resident smarty pants"
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So the fact that it came in a properly labeled motorcraft box doesn’t mean that it is a motorcraft certified reman injector? Some other company uses motorcraft boxes? Seems like that would be a lawsuit?

If it was reman Ford injector packaged in another company packaging, stating it is a remakes OEM injector I could see that being an quality issue.


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It is still a motorcraft injector. Doesn't mean it has new spool valves or the upgrades that Ford requires of its rebuilder (new plunger in the intensifier bodies with precision-match honing, spool valve relief cut, control valve bodies and spools are precision ground, etc). I see (from your posted pic above) it did have a Ford part number on it, so it may be one remanufactured by Pure Power. I still have my doubts though. Ford could easily send its injectors to other rebuilders for the aftermarket.

I don't think you could go to Ford with that injector and get a new one under warranty if it failed. The injectors bought from Ford have a 2 year warranty.

Autozone Motorcraft injector is 1 year warranty

https://www.autozone.com/fuel-delivery/fuel-injector/motorcraft-fuel-injector/208345_767995_6207

https://puredieselpower.com/ford/03-04-ford-6.0l-powerstroke-genuine-ford-injector.html
 

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Discussion Starter #20
OK, I got one from Ford. I returned the one from autozone cause i dont want to do this again at least for awhile.

Got everything hooked back up along with HHC nipple cups. I put the IPR tester on and pressurized the system to 110psi. Completely quiet! at least for a minute or two... then i heard a very faint hiss that got louder as i let it sit. How long are you supposed to keep the system charged? i see people saying no more than 30 seconds when they go through the ICP but what about through the IPR? Also the oil rails have no oil in them, so could the lack of oil allow the air to seep by easier and this isnt a problem? Or am i needing to look at another injector since its coming from that top o-ring?

Also thanks guys for the input
 
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