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An air leak at the back may be heard and misdiagnosed as a leak. There is a bleed hole on the back side (gear side) of the pump. While being air tested, air will come out of there and sound like a leak.

You said you had an ICP voltage low code, which is a circuit code. Low ICP would set the code for low ICP while cranking. Check the wires at the ICP sensor (Right hand valve cover at the front) I they are rubbed through that could be your issue.

Also a no start hot could be caused by other issues such as loosing crank signal or cam signal, but they will usually cause an intermintent stall/ no start.
 

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Discussion Starter #22
An air leak at the back may be heard and misdiagnosed as a leak. There is a bleed hole on the back side (gear side) of the pump. While being air tested, air will come out of there and sound like a leak.

You said you had an ICP voltage low code, which is a circuit code. Low ICP would set the code for low ICP while cranking. Check the wires at the ICP sensor (Right hand valve cover at the front) I they are rubbed through that could be your issue.

Also a no start hot could be caused by other issues such as loosing crank signal or cam signal, but they will usually cause an intermittent stall/ no start.
Thanks, I have no intermittent stall/ no start when cold, If it's over 170deg engine temp it will not start. Also under a load/hard acceleration I hear a Tapping, any Ideas on that?
 

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Without hearing it no. Maybe if you can describe it some more could get an idea. When you installed the new update STC fitting, did you follow the instructions carefully? Only asking if maybe the branch tube is rubbing on the rear engine cover. Can't see it but its possible. Only other thing I can think of is a piece of crap stuck in the IPR. You would of had to pull the IPR to do the fitting, what did the screen look like on the IPR? Usually when they are stuck they cause a no start no matter hot or cold though. Before you go crazy, find a scanner so you can read ICP pressure as well as IPR duty cycle to confirm its a hp oil leak.
 

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Discussion Starter #24
So I have been researching the issue with the truck. I read that the O-rings on the injectors could be bad and causing this. Is this true? Should I take out all of my injectors to make sure they're not bad before tearing into the engine to see if the branch tubes are bad. This issue of not starting when hot is driving me crazy. I was ready to pull the engine today and do all of this crap to it...But honestly I would like to just fix what causes this issue. Could the internal oil cooler be clogged and causing this? I have no plans on making it a high horsepower sled pulling machine. so I don't really believe I need head studs. But I also want it reliable. Leaving it Idling has burnt up my idler pulley so that is getting replaced with a new serpentine belt. Please any insight would be great. I don't have the means to do all of the air testing and I can't find anyone in alaska with a scanner to check what the PSI is at.
 
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