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Discussion Starter #1
I just got a 1997 F250 crew cab short bed automatic. It's got a few issues. None too bad, I think, except maybe the transmission. When I met the guy, he told me that when the indicator was in between D and 2, it was actually in drive and it had been like that since he had it. I haven't driven an auto in a while, so wasn't real sure what I was listening/feeling for. But, after I got it home and started tinkering with some stuff, I aligned the indicator and counted the clicks from park, and D isn't there! It goes from N to N (D) and the first gear to make the truck move is 2. But, I took it down the road and it shifts from 1st to 4th and then overdrive. I'm taking it to my transmission man after work today and let him drive it and see what he thinks, just thought somebody on here would know. Also, it has a 6.0 liter torque converter, and my transmission man said you weren't supposed to do that. Said that's one of the first things in the manual for the transmission, not to use that torque converter. The guy that I got it from lived close to Brians truck shop and he's the one that put the torque converter in it. Any help? Thanks
 

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Demon Dually
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First and foremost find a new transmission guy. He doesn't know what he is talking about or he is a ripoff artist. Brian is an extremely knowledgeable person when it comes to these transmissions. As far as aligning the gear shift indicator, you need to place the truck in neutral physically and not just by what the indicator says. Then adjust the thumb wheel until the indicator is centered on the N in neutral. There is nothing wrong with your transmission. It is your indicator that is off making you believe there is a problem with your transmission. For your information, one of the most popular trans tips/tricks on the E4OD/4R100 is to use a 6.0L converter if you can't afford a billet converter. Most of your local trans shops either don't have a clue or don't want the responsibility that comes with doing anything outside the box.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks, well, I called and talked to Brian and he informed me that it is not in fact a torque converter out of a 6.0. He said it was an extremely low mileage used converter from an '02 7.3l that he was building up and didn't need. And then he explained to me about how the transmission and the electronic module on the side had to agree where they were or they wouldn't fire the solenoids properly. I think this is the prolbem. He told me how to fix it, though I might have to call him back. That was a lot to absorb in just a few minutes...
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Ok, I adjusted the shift cable and it's official. I have P, R, N, D(N), 2(D), 1(2). Seems like everything from D has shifted to the right? Seems internal. Anybody know? Is this something I can do or is it gonna cost me an arm and a leg to get a tranny shop to do it?
 

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Demon Dually
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The only way that it can shift to the right is one of three possibilities. 1. The shift indicator is off(most likely cause). 2. The shift cable has stretched and is not allowing the shift arm to move to the appropriate position. The shift cable is not adjusted right. 3. The shift tube assembly is loose in the column not allowing the shifter to correctly detent the gears correctly. Just fixed a 150 like that the other day.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Well, please correct me if I'm wrong, but if something was wrong with the cable wouldn't P or R be off also? I talked to a buddy of mine who works for the city here and he looked up the proper way to adjust the cable and that's what I did. D is still like a N. It did seem to make it shif easier. I've adjusted the shift indicator several times and that is not it. And, I've checked the bushings (one had slipped out), tightened the bolts, and the shift tube seems to be right now. But the problem still persists. Am I doing something wrong?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
By the way, the instructions said to shift the truck into D, pull the shift cable off the shift arm on transmission, hang a 3 lb weight on shifter in cab, move shift arm on tranny back to P and count detents until D, pull white locking tab on cable, install cable end back on shift arm, lock white locking tab on cable.

Does this sound right?
 

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Demon Dually
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I suppose you could do that but I have never done it that way. I chock the wheels, place shifter in neutral, Jack up rear of truck(or on lift no chocks/jacking needed). remove shift cable from trans shift arm. manually move shift arm to neutral. Verify shift indicator is still in neutral position. Adjust cable so that it properly engages the shift arm ball socket. Lower truck and move shifter through gears to verify adjustment. Oh so you know there is no way that the transmission can be off internally.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Ok, I see where you're going. I think the way I did it should have the same end result right? I may try your way this evening when I get home. I haven't verified neutral yet. Although, if right now my drive position acts as a neutral, won't it act as a neutral with the engine off too? I don't know, I'm starting to confuse myself. I'll just try it when I get home and hopefully I can post some definite info tomorrow. Thanks man.
 

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Demon Dually
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What I am trying to explain is that what you are thinking is drive but acting like neutral is actually neutral in the transmission. You have to asjust the linkage cable with everything in neutral otherwise you will always be one gear off. There are also two torx screws in the end of the steering column shift tube that if they back out will cause your shifter to be off no matter what other adjustments you do. Very common problem and easy fix. I would seriously look there before trying to adjust anything else.
 

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Terminator Nation
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By the way, the instructions said to shift the truck into D, pull the shift cable off the shift arm on transmission, hang a 3 lb weight on shifter in cab, move shift arm on tranny back to P and count detents until D, pull white locking tab on cable, install cable end back on shift arm, lock white locking tab on cable.

Does this sound right?
As I recall, thats the service manual procedure. After verifying the transmission is actually in neutral after that, then adjust the thumbwheel to get the right shift indicator reading.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
What I am trying to explain is that what you are thinking is drive but acting like neutral is actually neutral in the transmission. You have to asjust the linkage cable with everything in neutral otherwise you will always be one gear off. There are also two torx screws in the end of the steering column shift tube that if they back out will cause your shifter to be off no matter what other adjustments you do. Very common problem and easy fix. I would seriously look there before trying to adjust anything else.
That's the first thing I did when I dropped the steering column, tightened up all the bolts that held the shift tube, after realigning the bushings, and checked the torx bolts on the end of the tube that hold on the lever that the cable hooks to.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
UPDATE: Last night, I decided to do a little more troubleshooting before I went out and bought a shift cable from Ford. I disconnected the shift cable from the transmission, and with the truck running, emergency brake engaged, I shifted into each gear. After I put it in a gear, I would get back in the truck, release the E brake, and test it to make sure it worked. And it did just as it did from the shifter. Except, when I got it to 1st, not sure it was ever getting there with the shifter attached, it wouldn't come out! After my brother and a few more people tried there hand at it, it came out of 1st, supposedly with little force. But, now it only has R, N, D! It won't go into park! I can't get my keys out! But, R, N, and D are right on! It's something inside the transmission. Now I guess I'll have to spend a pile of money to pay a transmission shop to fix it!!!! Anybody ever heard of this???
 

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Demon Dually
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I have never personally heard of that happening but there is a first time for everything. You are saying that the shift arm on the trans will not move into any position but R.N.D internally right? You must have some sort of valve body issue then if that is the case which unfortunately will call for tearing into the trans. If you were closer I would tell you to just come get my old trans that smoked the converter. It is just sitting here on a pallet.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Thanks, I got to thinking after I looked at this link: http://www.thedieselgarage.com/projects/e4od/ that the guy that had it before me replaced the torque convertor himself. And if he didn't take the shift cable loose when he slid the transmission back, he could've bent or strained a part just inside of the transmission. I'm going to drop the pan today when I get home and see for myself. I'm thinking that the detent mechanism has fallen out and gotten wedged or, seems more likely, the linkage that goes back to the parking gear has gotten bent or came off of the internal linkage. Or the bottom of that internal arm has bent or broken off. I'll find out in a couple hours and let you know tomorrow.
 

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Demon Dually
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Ok Definitely let us knwo what you find. You are probably spot on with the thought that the detent is bent/broken.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I hope that's all it is!!!!
 

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Discussion Starter #18
This is what I found! This is the spring detent just inside the transmission. It works like a new one now! I didn't know what it was supposed to look like, but finally my brother came over and and straightened it out all the way and it works awesome! I can't believe that little spring had the tranny all screwed up. But, I see how it did. If it's not right you won't engage your spool in the correct position. But, IT'S FIXED NOW!!!:redspotdance::D

 

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Demon Dually
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Awesome news man. Glad you get it fixed.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
ME TOO!!!

Now I've just gotta replace the fuel pump and those small hoses...
 
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