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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
2004 F350 CC SB SRW 6.0 Build date 02/04. 105k miles. I'm the original owner and have maintained my truck meticulously. My Ford dealer did all warranty work until the expiration. Since then, I've had a dealer mechanic do extensive work (head gaskets and studs, etc) as side jobs, not at the dealership. I've scoured the internet and this site looking for answers. I use all OEM filters and oil filter cap. I'm a good parts changer but not very good at diagnostics. I plan on keeping this truck another 18 years so I want to learn to fix it myself.

I was close to home when the truck all of a sudden would not accelerate. Within a few more feet the truck died. I've now changed FICM (recently started long cranking) and the ICP. The truck stays plugged into a BatteryMinder whenever not in use. My last Optima RedTops lasted 8 years. But those have since been replaced. Here are some cranking PIDs:
Font Screenshot Number Multimedia


I do have one DTC P2617 - Crankshaft Position Output Circuit / Open

Any help would be greatly appreciated.
 

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6.0 i had once upon a time died on me out of no where twice like that. Ended up being the crank position sensor. Since you have a code for it id start there. Check the plug, pull and replace the sensor
 

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P2617 can be generated from a stall or from excessive cranks. Since you have a good rpm signal, I doubt that it is your crank sensor.

Your IPR is at 84.7% when cranking, indicating that you have low pressure in your high pressure oil system. You have a leak in that system, or the IPR valve is stuck, or the HPOP is weak. This is supported by the desired ICP pressure being quite a bit higher than the actual.

That said, even though the ICP pressure is below the desired pressure, you have 559 psi, and that is just enough to where you should probably be able to start. 0.8 volts from the ICP sensor supports this pressure reading. So - you most likely have another problem in addition to weak/low pressure in the HPO system.

I see you have FICM sync, but do you also have cam/crank sync?
It would also be good to see if you have an injector pulse width signal.
Lastly, please post the v-reference voltage

Oh, and please tell us if you have any smoke when cranking and whether or not you still have a functional EGR system.

Every 6.0L owner should have a fuel pressure gauge, but I assume you don't since you did not post any readings. Remove the secondary fuel filter, remove any standing fuel, have someone turn on the key as you watch the fuel filter bowl fill. Post up how long it takes to fill. Please be ready to have the key turned off - it should be pretty fast.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Sorry, I didn't answer all your questions. I'm working on a lot of broken down other stuff on the property today.

No noticeable smoke while cranking. The truck has never really smoked, even when pulling my 17k lb toy hauler.

EGR cooler was replaced long ago with a BPD unit. The EGR system is fully functional except that I keep the valve closed with an SCT Livewire custom economy tune. The truck was running said tune at the time it died. It has since been flashed back to stock.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
If I crank long enough it will start firing enough to keep itself going at a lot less than idle RPM. Throttle input won't raise the RPMs. I haven't cranked that long since I first had problems. I didn't want to do more damage. This truck really has never smoked very much. I can't "roll coal" no matter the tune.
 

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Cranking rpms seem very low
 

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I would say even though you have 550 psi ICP cranking (even though that theoretically be enough), that’s what is causing your no start with a maxed out IPR duty cycle. I would air test the system and charge the batteries (10.5V per your data)
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I will air test the hpop system as soon as I get fittings. Batteries are less than a week old and fully charged. I keep a BatteryMinder charger connected whenever the truck is parked.
 

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10.5V loaded are not fully charged batteries. They might be a week old, but trying to start the truck multiple times you’ve drained them down.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
So maybe there's something else going on here? I'll repeat, the charger is always attached and the batteries are fully charged.

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During crank the voltage drops to as low as 10v.
 

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Worn out cables or starter definitely hurt

Last picture is cranking RPM 160

I definitely think it's a problem you need to fix anyways and it's easier to fix then moving on to the ICP pressure

Just don't fix the battery issue and not address the ICP issue
 
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2004 F350 CC SB SRW 6.0 Build date 02/04. 105k miles. I'm the original owner and have maintained my truck meticulously. My Ford dealer did all warranty work until the expiration. Since then, I've had a dealer mechanic do extensive work (head gaskets and studs, etc) as side jobs, not at the dealership. I've scoured the internet and this site looking for answers. I use all OEM filters and oil filter cap. I'm a good parts changer but not very good at diagnostics. I plan on keeping this truck another 18 years so I want to learn to fix it myself.

I was close to home when the truck all of a sudden would not accelerate. Within a few more feet the truck died. I've now changed FICM (recently started long cranking) and the ICP. The truck stays plugged into a BatteryMinder whenever not in use. My last Optima RedTops lasted 8 years. But those have since been replaced. Here are some cranking PIDs:
View attachment 205456

I do have one DTC P2617 - Crankshaft Position Output Circuit / Open

Any help would be greatly appreciated.
I wouldn't even worry about any of the codes or readings you are getting until you have done an air test. If will start but run like crap, I highly doubt its the HPOP o-ring or stand pipe o-ring. When either of those go the truck won't run at all. It's most likely a blown injector or cup, maybe IPR but that too has always been a no-run situation.
 
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