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Hated by All
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Is there anyway to $h!t-can the AIH relay without throwin' codes??
 

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I think you need a code eliminator

FWIW it won't throw a hard code, which means your SES light won't come on.

Just a soft code.

I've been told it can interfere with some diagnostic tests though, if the code is present.

I know I just hacked mine off and screwed it right back in, and took off the wire.
 

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Buy a plug to fit in the spyder and then put the wires back on the heater and tie it up in the valley in such a way that the heater coil doesn't lay on something that will melt.
 

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Dieselitis Incuribis
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Hey all. Just defected from the other site:redspotdance:. I think what Fast Ashley is trying to say (correct me if I'm wrong)is can the relay itself be removed-not just the coil in the spider? I did this mod as well a few years ago and put the code eliminator in and it has never shown any codes. I just seems silly to leave the relay and all related wiring cluttering up the top of the engine. So, back to the original question-Has anyone removed the relay and if so, how?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Yeah, what Tom said. I wan't to get rid of that cluster F***!!
 

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I removed the pig tail from it and left the relay there. no cluster f%^& here.

You can use the relay as a backup for the glow plugs in an emergency as well.
 

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Main power comes from the Battery via fuseable links/starter relay to the Glow Plug Relay. (This main feed takes the high amperage draw and runs the heaters)

A power wire is jumpered between the Glow Plug Relay 12v in, to the AIH 12v in. (Again, high amperage, provides power for the heaters)

12v Vehicle Power comes from the PCM and FP relays and goes to the GP Relay, the IAH Relay, the IPR, and the transmission on 4R100's. (This 12v feed is low amperage, and only runs the contact solenoid to close the big relays)

The relays are turned on/off by the PCM. The PCM provides the ground needed to complete the solenoid closure circuit. With the GP's and IAH, this is a continous ground until the computer decides they have been on long enough.

With the IPR, it is a PULSED ground in order to get the duty cycle needed to run the IPR.

From the circuit descriptor Im looking at, the IAH monitor wire is just bridged right onto the output of the relay and just provides a 12v signal that the AIH is getting power. However, it may actually be looking for CONTINUITY, and not 12v power, to make sure the IAH heater itself has not shorted out, or opened up.

It may be as simple as putting a couple ohm resistor on the IAH monitor wire, and putting the other end to ground and scrapping everything else.

I wacked my AIH also, so I cant go out and measure what the true resistance of the IAH is between hot and ground posts, otherwise I'd tell you to get a 1-watt resistor in that resistance range of the AIH, put it on the monitor wire, and ground the other side and that should eliminate the need for the whole darn relay.

That may be what the "eliminator dongle" is, just a resistor to ground. I know thats what most of the other eliminator dongles are.
 

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Some Kinda Diesel Oracle
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It may be as simple as putting a couple ohm resistor on the IAH monitor wire, and putting the other end to ground and scrapping everything else.

I wacked my AIH also, so I cant go out and measure what the true resistance of the IAH is between hot and ground posts, otherwise I'd tell you to get a 1-watt resistor in that resistance range of the AIH, put it on the monitor wire, and ground the other side and that should eliminate the need for the whole darn relay.

That may be what the "eliminator dongle" is, just a resistor to ground. I know thats what most of the other eliminator dongles are.
The eliminator dongle is just a 480ohm 1/2 watt resistor connecting it to ground.

Hammer
 

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Some Kinda Diesel Oracle
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Hammer should know. He is good friends with Shaun at SP Diesel and has several of their products on his truck :D
I think he should change his company's name to ST Diesel.

Hammer
 

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The eliminator dongle is just a 480ohm 1/2 watt resistor connecting it to ground.

Hammer
IIRC the original eliminator dongle was around 470 ohms, but I agree something a little higher (I used about a 500 ohm 5 watt IIRC) and haven't had any problems in around 3 or 4 years and no codes. While a 1/2 watt will meet the E=IR needs which is around .3 watts just remember power rating as well as ohms along with reliability all go down as heat goes up and the run of the mill Rat Shack resistors are not normally rated in the 200 deg range. Us Vanners are heat constrained and I often tow at 1250 pre turbo EGT for minutes at a time and managed to warp my intake box because of heat and had to buy a new one. HERE is a pic of my warped intake and that warped area sets right above the HPOP. That oval connects to my intake going from the air box to the turbo. I now have that area double wrapped in header wrap to help prevent another occurance of this problem. :gun:

I would consider something close to 500 ohms and around 1 watt the minimum I would feel comfortable using but obviously others have used lower ohm and power rated resistors with good luck.

Also IIRC it's a soft code and might only effect trying to perform either injector buzz or cylinder contribution tests. Also, IIRC depending on the year it might or might not effect you.

JMHO :cool:

Larry
 
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