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Is there anyway to $h!t-can the AIH relay without throwin' codes??
The eliminator dongle is just a 480ohm 1/2 watt resistor connecting it to ground.It may be as simple as putting a couple ohm resistor on the IAH monitor wire, and putting the other end to ground and scrapping everything else.
I wacked my AIH also, so I cant go out and measure what the true resistance of the IAH is between hot and ground posts, otherwise I'd tell you to get a 1-watt resistor in that resistance range of the AIH, put it on the monitor wire, and ground the other side and that should eliminate the need for the whole darn relay.
That may be what the "eliminator dongle" is, just a resistor to ground. I know thats what most of the other eliminator dongles are.
IIRC the original eliminator dongle was around 470 ohms, but I agree something a little higher (I used about a 500 ohm 5 watt IIRC) and haven't had any problems in around 3 or 4 years and no codes. While a 1/2 watt will meet the E=IR needs which is around .3 watts just remember power rating as well as ohms along with reliability all go down as heat goes up and the run of the mill Rat Shack resistors are not normally rated in the 200 deg range. Us Vanners are heat constrained and I often tow at 1250 pre turbo EGT for minutes at a time and managed to warp my intake box because of heat and had to buy a new one. HERE is a pic of my warped intake and that warped area sets right above the HPOP. That oval connects to my intake going from the air box to the turbo. I now have that area double wrapped in header wrap to help prevent another occurance of this problem. :gun:The eliminator dongle is just a 480ohm 1/2 watt resistor connecting it to ground.