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The cab lights were a option on the single wheel F350's but standard on the dullies I believe.

I have seen a lot of F350's without them.
 

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Discussion Starter #22
I have had a few people warning me about the engine swap. Is it really that big of a red flag? Mechanic said the wiring was routed improperly, so the owners Mechanic is taking a look. There's a different harness for the engine swap so I suppose it's a bit rigged up... He said the buzz test was fine but he's cleaning everything up.
 

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I have had a few people warning me about the engine swap. Is it really that big of a red flag? Mechanic said the wiring was routed improperly, so the owners Mechanic is taking a look. There's a different harness for the engine swap so I suppose it's a bit rigged up... He said the buzz test was fine but he's cleaning everything up.
If you go in understanding that it's a 22 year old truck that someone has heavily modified. And by you description not done very good. He's unloading his headache to someone else. IMHO
 

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Discussion Starter #24
If you go in understanding that it's a 22 year old truck that someone has heavily modified. And by you description not done very good. He's unloading his headache to someone else. IMHO
I ended up going with a mostly stock version of the same truck. Has a lot of the maintenance stuff done and looks great. It's also a 5 speed which freaked me right out but I've gotten used to it pretty quick. Just a little squirmy to clutch at times cuz I'm only 5'1.

A few projects we're working on getting done (lift, rad support, box liner, and paint job). Doing the box liner and rad support ourselves, just ordered one from Napa in town and they assured me it was the right one (we'll see about that). If it's a gasser the lower part of the one I've got looks OK so we just might have to fab it up a bit. Want to get that job done before the lift to make sure she's solid. May replace the body bushings too.
 

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Nice looking truck, with all the work you plan on doing and places you gonna take her you should start a build thread with lots of pics so we can see what your doing and where you've gone.

It sounds like you gonna have a great time making her what you want and taking her on your outings
 

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I ended up going with a mostly stock version of the same truck. Has a lot of the maintenance stuff done and looks great. It's also a 5 speed which freaked me right out but I've gotten used to it pretty quick. Just a little squirmy to clutch at times cuz I'm only 5'1.

A few projects we're working on getting done (lift, rad support, box liner, and paint job). Doing the box liner and rad support ourselves, just ordered one from Napa in town and they assured me it was the right one (we'll see about that). If it's a gasser the lower part of the one I've got looks OK so we just might have to fab it up a bit. Want to get that job done before the lift to make sure she's solid. May replace the body bushings too.
While you are doing the rad support ensure you replace the cab mounts bushings, the front fender/rad supports mounts/bushings will probably be rusted solid anyways and by the time you pull them apart you’ll be looking to replace the bits and pieces including bushings. I use the poly bushing cab mounts as they are more robust (MO) then stock rubber. Do an online search on how to pull the stock cab bushings apart, not a big deal if you make the tools, which is straight forward. Remember to use a quality anti-seize paste on all bolt threads for easy reassembly and rust protection.
Cheers on new rig.
j
 

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Discussion Starter #27
While you are doing the rad support ensure you replace the cab mounts bushings, the front fender/rad supports mounts/bushings will probably be rusted solid anyways and by the time you pull them apart you’ll be looking to replace the bits and pieces including bushings. I use the poly bushing cab mounts as they are more robust (MO) then stock rubber. Do an online search on how to pull the stock cab bushings apart, not a big deal if you make the tools, which is straight forward. Remember to use a quality anti-seize paste on all bolt threads for easy reassembly and rust protection.
Cheers on new rig.
j
Thanks for the info! Yeah, the bushings up front (rad support bushings?) look really bad, cracked and hard (see pics). Are those poly bushings something NAPA or whatever auto store would be able to source out or do I need to go online and order them? Getting the rad support on Friday so I'd better source something out quick so we can get that job out of the way this weekend. Do I just need the cab mount bushings for up front, and then the rad support bushings? Will look into the tools I'll need. Hopefully nothing too expensive... Spent a lot on an angle grinder and wire wheel the other day to deal with the mess that is the rusty box floor. Got it stripped yesterday and I'm gonna coat the bare metal parts in POR15 when this rain goes away, then do a DIY bedliner.

Today I also ordered an RSK which should be here in 2-3 weeks, at which point we're having a mechanic in town who knows those trucks do a 7.5-8 in lift (4.5 in shackles with 3in lift superduty springs). We want to do that right. Dual shocks maybe?? Gonna run 37's on nice black rims we found on craigslist. Planning to have her painted in the meantime (shiny black)..

Lots of things coming up... Maybe a build thread is a good idea!
 

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I used Energy Suspension Poly Bushing Kit from Lordco, Napa should have it too. Kit includes bushings frame to cab mounts and front rad support. You might have to replace front rad support bolts as those typically are boogered from rust and wear. What differential gears you running? With a PMF or Sky 3.5” RSK, SD V Code (5200 lbs) fronts springs, with Stock rears with SD block will give lotsa lift for 37s (pending rim offset and tire width). 8” lift will get old soon.... MO. The above will give you about a 4-5” lift (not including tires), will ride nice and handling if you keep the anti sway bars on it too, just extend the vertical rods. To tighten up steering get a Borgeson mid steering shaft, and aftermarket steering box. I put air bags on the rear of my trucks then you’re always level. Lastly YouTube search cab bushing swap, it’s straight forward.
Cheers,
j
 

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Thanks for the info! Yeah, the bushings up front (rad support bushings?) look really bad, cracked and hard (see pics). Are those poly bushings something NAPA or whatever auto store would be able to source out or do I need to go online and order them? Getting the rad support on Friday so I'd better source something out quick so we can get that job out of the way this weekend. Do I just need the cab mount bushings for up front, and then the rad support bushings? Will look into the tools I'll need. Hopefully nothing too expensive... Spent a lot on an angle grinder and wire wheel the other day to deal with the mess that is the rusty box floor. Got it stripped yesterday and I'm gonna coat the bare metal parts in POR15 when this rain goes away, then do a DIY bedliner.

Today I also ordered an RSK which should be here in 2-3 weeks, at which point we're having a mechanic in town who knows those trucks do a 7.5-8 in lift (4.5 in shackles with 3in lift superduty springs). We want to do that right. Dual shocks maybe?? Gonna run 37's on nice black rims we found on craigslist. Planning to have her painted in the meantime (shiny black)..

Lots of things coming up... Maybe a build thread is a good idea!
POR15 is great stuff if you follow the directions. You must degrease and etch before use, and if you're doing the bed floor or any other parts that'll be exposed to the sun you'll have to paint over it. Bedliner will be OK for covering the floor. Also wear gloves and a mask, it sticks to everything including skin and the fumes are strong.
 

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Discussion Starter #30
I used Energy Suspension Poly Bushing Kit from Lordco, Napa should have it too. Kit includes bushings frame to cab mounts and front rad support. You might have to replace front rad support bolts as those typically are boogered from rust and wear. What differential gears you running? With a PMF or Sky 3.5” RSK, SD V Code (5200 lbs) fronts springs, with Stock rears with SD block will give lotsa lift for 37s (pending rim offset and tire width). 8” lift will get old soon.... MO. The above will give you about a 4-5” lift (not including tires), will ride nice and handling if you keep the anti sway bars on it too, just extend the vertical rods. To tighten up steering get a Borgeson mid steering shaft, and aftermarket steering box. I put air bags on the rear of my trucks then you’re always level. Lastly YouTube search cab bushing swap, it’s straight forward.
Cheers,
j
Thanks for the info, will definitely look into that bushing kit.

I think the diff gears are whatever is stock. Should we switch the gearing so it rides better with 37s? I don't know whether we could run 37's with only 4-5 in. Truck seems to have close to that now with the 35s on it and they rub, there's some kind of add a leaf installed and it seems huge to me. The lift is kind of my boyfriend's thing really, I think it's pretty cool as it is now to be honest. He's insisting on 8in and after talking with the mechanic, I'm going for 7ish and just gonna tell him its 8 haha. Just doing levelling springs for a SD with the 4.5in shackle kit. We've had lifted trucks before, the cummins had 6" on 35s and our 6.0L F350 had 8" on 37s. The ride on those was great but they are newer.. Hoping it's not too bad. Truck has already got air bags installed so we're set there.

I'm going to put everything I'm doing to this truck over on my new build thread: https://www.powerstrokenation.com/forums/18-1994-1997-obs-power-stroke-aftermarket-performance/565365-kingles-obs-dream-truck-build.html
 

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Discussion Starter #31
POR15 is great stuff if you follow the directions. You must degrease and etch before use, and if you're doing the bed floor or any other parts that'll be exposed to the sun you'll have to paint over it. Bedliner will be OK for covering the floor. Also wear gloves and a mask, it sticks to everything including skin and the fumes are strong.
Any recommendations on products for degreasing and etching? We've already done the wire wheel. Was just going to power wash it and paint only the exposed/rusty metal, then bedliner on everything.
 

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Check the POR-15 site for prep products as well. You'll have to scuff the POR-15 topcoat well with the bedliner going over it. Nothing really likes to stick to it very well. Cheers!
 

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Discussion Starter #33
Check the POR-15 site for prep products as well. You'll have to scuff the POR-15 topcoat well with the bedliner going over it. Nothing really likes to stick to it very well. Cheers!
What do I scuff it with? Just some sand paper or do I need to POR-15 scuff pads. Lordco probably has all of that so I'll pick some up today so I'm ready to do it all when the rain stops.
 

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Stock came with either 4:10s or 3:55s, differential gear sets, should be tag on the actual differential. C9 and C5 respectively is marked in the door jam code for each of the above. With 37s and 3:55s you might wanna rethink this combo...
j
 

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Discussion Starter #35
Stock came with either 4:10s or 3:55s, differential gear sets, should be tag on the actual differential. C9 and C5 respectively is marked in the door jam code for each of the above. With 37s and 3:55s you might wanna rethink this combo...
j
Thanks, just checked and 3:55's are what's there. Do I need/want 4:10's to run the 37s without negative effects?
 

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What I’d do is sort out what you’re doing with your rig, I.e., tow rig, strip race truck, daily driver etc. Most cost effective rationale is to consider the entire powertrain as a system. So, keeping above in mind, I’d consider injectors, High Pressure Oil Pump, electric fueling, Turbo size, clutch, diff gears and tire size, exhaust needs to include aftermarket Down pipe for optimum performance.

Stock power levels, 3:55s with 37s I’m thinking will be a challenge, pending what your needs are.
j
 

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Discussion Starter #37
It's mostly just a daily driver around town, then weekends we may throw our dirtbikes/camping gear in the back and go out for adventures. Some mountain logging road drives, but no extreme off-roading. Might get a sled eventually but not planning on getting a big toy hauler for quite a while. Everything is stock (no e fuel, stock injectors and hpop, turbo and clutch).

If I need to do all that just to run 37s, maybe the solution is do the lift, get some nicer rims and keep the (almost new) 35's that came with it. Convincing the boyfriend will be the big challenge there.
 

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Gotcha, nope you don’t NEED to change all that to run 37s, if it’s a DD, light tow grocery rig, you can change stuff as you go. Being that it’s a ZF 5 speed is really a bonus as they are very robust trannies, and typically you just have to replace with a better clutch and they will hold 450-500 HP to rear wheels if you drive sensibly. The E4OD (auto) not even close, without significant mods.

If it where me I’d run a Precision Metal Fabrications (PMF), RSK, 3.5” with SD V Code (5200 lbs) run the 3:55s with 35s, then add other mods, like DP, gauges, Hydra Tuner and see how you like it. You can always put a lift spring in later.... jumping in and out gets old quick MO.

Link in my sig is current truck albeit an ECLB and has above suspension running 37” tires. Rides, handles significantly better than stock.
Cheers,
j
 

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Discussion Starter #39
Gotcha, nope you don’t NEED to change all that to run 37s, if it’s a DD, light tow grocery rig, you can change stuff as you go. Being that it’s a ZF 5 speed is really a bonus as they are very robust trannies, and typically you just have to replace with a better clutch and they will hold 450-500 HP to rear wheels if you drive sensibly. The E4OD (auto) not even close, without significant mods.

If it where me I’d run a Precision Metal Fabrications (PMF), RSK, 3.5” with SD V Code (5200 lbs) run the 3:55s with 35s, then add other mods, like DP, gauges, Hydra Tuner and see how you like it. You can always put a lift spring in later.... jumping in and out gets old quick MO.

Link in my sig is current truck albeit an ECLB and has above suspension running 37” tires. Rides, handles significantly better than stock.
Cheers,
j
Thing is, it's not really up to me. I'm just trying to be the voice of reason but ultimately my boyfriend is paying for the lift and tires, so it's his call. He wants 8" on 37s and isn't budging on that. I'm gonna need a ladder to get into this thing hahah. He's at least gonna have to buy some side steps or something for me... I've already ordered a 4.5" PMF RSK and once that arrives we were planning to pair it with SD 3" lift springs for a total of around 7-7.5" (I'll just tell him its 8 haha). If we do that, and are OK with slightly less power, can it really be that bad? We've got the TS6 tuner already and its on 35's now... Power is enough for us currently... Can always swap the axles out with some 4.10's down the road if they come up online for a good price, right?
 

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Totally, just a function of dough and time! Glad you went with PMF, excellent product, superior design and totally bolt on.
Cheers,
j
 
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