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Native Texan
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Discussion Starter #1
So I think my coolers are flowing to much fluid to cool properly and I am trying to decided on a cooler option to go in front of the radiator. I know all bout the 6.0l coolers but I don't have one laying around. what I do have is a extra Ac condenser from a junked 97 f350 7.3l. Any one have any thoughts on using this as a cooler.

Sent from my super awsome outdated new Samsung phone whose 500mA draw hasn't over-overloaded multiple already over rated branch circuits just beyond the kaboom point and caught everything on fire yet.
 

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it is mighty big.
and it will not do much good when sitting in traffic because they will be almost no airflow.
 

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Native Texan
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Discussion Starter #3
it is mighty big.
and it will not do much good when sitting in traffic because they will be almost no airflow.
yeah I will still have the 2 underneath with the fans on them but I am seeing the faster I run the higher my temps run Would like to try and keep them below 180 degrees most of the time. and the fan should pull some air thru while idling I would think. And if need be I can add a fan to it in the future to cool it. But right now when cruising my temps at 60 degrees Friday were 190 to 200 depending on the speed I ran As soon as I slow down temp drops fast Especially at idle. So cooling at highway speed is my goal.

Sent from my super awsome outdated new Samsung phone whose 500mA draw hasn't over-overloaded multiple already over rated branch circuits just beyond the kaboom point and caught everything on fire yet.
 

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don't play well w others
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Way too big.
I put an aftermarket cooler from Jegs with a fan, and a Temp control switch on my son's Centurion
It never overheated, even pushing snow in the blizzards.

I can look up which one, and what control switch I used if you want
 

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Native Texan
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Discussion Starter #5
Way too big.
I put an aftermarket cooler from Jegs with a fan, and a Temp control switch on my son's Centurion
It never overheated, even pushing snow in the blizzards.

I can look up which one, and what control switch I used if you want
I got 2 after market coolers with fans on 185 degree thermostats and does fine till I run down the high way. I mean the pump has a thermostat. I am just looking at things I already own. and won't cost me much to implement before the 14th. If I have to buy something I probably won't be able to get my tunes i time.

Sent from my super awsome outdated new Samsung phone whose 500mA draw hasn't over-overloaded multiple already over rated branch circuits just beyond the kaboom point and caught everything on fire yet. So# heavydoc can be happy that it finally did.? And Turd-250 "WILL" be blamed for. If My internet will stay up for# heavydoc to see my pics. And ArmyFord6.0 will still be eatting quinoa wishing it was bacon.? And Dustybumpers(Aka Trouble maker Charles) can hijack Rainbow Rob's thread.
 

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don't play well w others
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So with that said. are the fans on all the time?
Both of them?

His fan only cuts on at 200. It cuts on/off. I have never heard it on going down the road, unless he was pulling the dump trailer loaded, and he was "in a hurry"

May well be you have enough cooler, just too much cooling
 

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that thing is so big it will probably just flow rite through it without dissipating any heat at all.
kinda sorta like a radiator without a thermostat.
 
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don't play well w others
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Be like running a pto in open all the time. LMAO
 

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yup!!!
 

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Caption This
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You cannot flow the coolant thru a radiator so fast it won't cool. The air that flows thru the radiator and cools the coolant doesn't know and doesn't care how fast the water is flowing.

A 7.3 overheats without a thermostat because..... When the thermostat opens it closes the bypass port and forces the coolant to flow thru the radiator. Without a thermostat, the bypass port is wide open and a large volume of coolant flows thru it and bypasses the radiator.
 

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Native Texan
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Discussion Starter #11
So this is what I'm talking bout.

So this is my cooler module. the one with the fan on the outside is the primary cooler as u can see they are large tubes with very little surface area to dispel the heat.

This is the condenser it has many smaller tubes that cross back and forth in sets. it is designed to dissipate alot of heat. I thought I read somewhere that there is an internal thermostat in the Trans.




And these are its rough dimensions.


Sent from my super awsome outdated new Samsung phone whose 500mA draw hasn't over-overloaded multiple already over rated branch circuits just beyond the kaboom point and caught everything on fire yet. So heavydoc can be happy that it finally did.? And Turd-250 "WILL" be blamed for. If My internet will stay up for# heavydoc to see my pics. And ArmyFord6.0 will still be eatting quinoa wishing it was bacon.? And Dustybumpers(Aka Trouble maker Charles) can hijack Rainbow Rob's thread.
 

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Master BS'er
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Only one way to find out Masiki. Go for it dude. Let us know what happens.

Ya never know, you just might start a new fad.
 

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Caption This
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I don't think using that condenser is a good idea. I think the internal passages will be too small for transmission fluid. If you want a good transmission cooler, you need to buy a 6.0 cooler. Use a 6.0 cooler and the cooler in the bottom of the radiator. Get rid of everything else. If your truck has 5/16" transmission lines, you need to upgrade them to 3/8". If you have a cooler bypass relief valve connecting the two cooler lines, you probably need to rebuild it too.

A 6.0 cooler will be a tight fit but I know it can be done because I've seen one installed neatly on an OBS truck.
 

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You cannot flow the coolant thru a radiator so fast it won't cool. The air that flows thru the radiator and cools the coolant doesn't know and doesn't care how fast the water is flowing.
agreed
the "too fast" theory has been long disproved
 

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Native Texan
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Discussion Starter #15
agreed
the "too fast" theory has been long disproved
except I was talking trans fluid thru a tube cooler not coolant.

Sent from my super awsome outdated new Samsung phone whose 500mA draw hasn't over-overloaded multiple already over rated branch circuits just beyond the kaboom point and caught everything on fire yet. So heavydoc can be happy that it finally did.? And Turd-250 "WILL" be blamed for. If My internet will stay up for# heavydoc to see my pics. And ArmyFord6.0 will still be eatting quinoa wishing it was bacon.? And Dustybumpers(Aka Trouble maker Charles) can hijack Rainbow Rob's thread.
 

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agreed
the "too fast" theory has been long disproved
try it with no thermostat and get stuck in non moving traffic for 2 hours and see if the engine don't overheat because the coolant is moving through the radiator too fast to cool.
 
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Caption This
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Native Texan
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Discussion Starter #19
It doesn't matter, the answer is still the same.
well I will disagree with u there is not enough surface area in my aftermarket coolers to cool at higher speeds they are great at low speed around town but any thing above 70 the number of tubes in the cooler is not enough surface area.

So by what u are saying if I take a 3/8 pipe and run it straight thru 1 cu ft of water it will cool the same as if I take the same pipe and run it thru the same cu ft of water 4 times.

Or if I take the straight pipe and run the fluid thru at 1 gallon a min it will give up its heat at the same rate as if I run the fluid thru at 10 gallons a min.

I ain't a real smart person but that math don't add up to me.

Sent from my super awsome outdated new Samsung phone whose 500mA draw hasn't over-overloaded multiple already over rated branch circuits just beyond the kaboom point and caught everything on fire yet. So heavydoc can be happy that it finally did.? And Turd-250 "WILL" be blamed for. If My internet will stay up for# heavydoc to see my pics. And ArmyFord6.0 will still be eatting quinoa wishing it was bacon.? And Dustybumpers(Aka Trouble maker Charles) can hijack Rainbow Rob's thread.
 

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those two small coolers are limited to the amount of air that can pass through the fans, either running or off. remember, when off those fans are a very big restriction to airflow.
 
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