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Discussion Starter #1
Hey everyone. I'm having an issue with the #6 in dash fuse blowing when I switch the air conditioner on. The blower runs fine on vent and the a/c compressor clutch is not seized. If i disconnect the electrical plug at the front of the compressor, I can switch the control to a/c and the fuse will not blow and I just get warm air. As soon as I reconnect the electrical harness, with the a/c on, the fuse will blow. Is my compressor fried? or is there a way to trace a short in the wiring somewhere? thanks
 

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could be low on freeon or oil in the compressor.only reason the fuse should go if if too much amp draw on the compressor.
 

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Matt,
Check the connector that plugs into the top of the compressor. I replaced the connector a while back due to a burnt connection.
Andy
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Cratos, When it was running, it did blow cold air, then it suddenly quit. then i replaced the fuse, tried it again and it blew cold air for 5 seconds until the fuse blew again. is there a way to check the oil, or i'm guessing it's time for a new compressor or just take it to a shop.

Andy, when i was trying to diagnose it, i did look for burnt connectors and none seemed to be burnt.
 

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the only way I have come across to "check the oil" is to pull an evac on the system, which on my robinair system, pulls all the oil out into a ressie and then you can measure how much came out.
I'm by no means an a/c expert, but I just picked this unit up and am learning.

It sounds to me like you need a new compressor. My dad's 85 toyota would do the same thing, changed the compressor and problems gone.
 

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Demon Dually
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You have a shorted a/c clutch. Replace the clutch and you will be all set.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
thanks for the ideas. i'll replace the clutch and see what happens.
 

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I may still have my old compressor, it has a good clutch. I can have my brother check to see if it is still at his shop. If you want it just pay the shipping.
I dont know how much a clutch is, but mine would work long enough to see if that is the problem.

check out the plug that plugs into the clutch connector, Mine was shorting out, Ford had a new pigtail on the shelf.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
thanks for the offer but i already ordered a new clutch from advance auto and it should be delivered tomorrow. i already looked at the plug and both it and the connector on the clutch did not seem burnt.

if it might work, my plan before taking the old clutch off is to try the new clutch by running the truck and connecting the new clutch to the pigtail without installing it then turning on the a/c to see if the new clutch engages. if it looks like i can test it that way without installing the new clutch, i'll post back right after work. and if it does work i'll just change the clutch out.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
so, i tested the new clutch without installing it by just making the electrical connection. the clutch was able to engage the pulley, so my problem isn't related to the truck wiring. so my next step will be to install the new clutch and try again. hopefully i can get that done tomorrow, if not, it will be on sunday.
 

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Good luck Matt! Tell us how it went.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
well, i have good news to report. it seems that the electromagnet part of the clutch was the culprit. i was able to install the new clutch and ran the a/c without the fuse blowing. thanks for the help :)
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Argh. And the saga continues... After 20 minutes of stop and go driving in 86* weather, I go switch on the a/c and pop goes the fuse again. The compressor can still spin. I guess its time to take it somewhere to check the refrigerant charge...
 

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I don't think that low refrigerant will cause the fuse to blow, but I'm no expert. May be time for the compressor to be replaced.
 

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If i am wrong please dont be afraid to offend me. but i am 99% sure if the freon was low the low pressure switch would shut the compressor off. the freon level shouldn't have anything thing to do with it. if you want to make sure it has nothing to do with it unplug the low pressure sensor (on the back of the compressor) and put a jumper wire in the pigtail, and try it out.

The compressor has noting electrical to it other than the clutch and the low pressure switch, you already have the clutch installed and if you use a jumper wire like i am talking about above that would tell you if your low pressure switch was causing the fuse to blow or of the problem was int he harness.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
If i am wrong please dont be afraid to offend me. but i am 99% sure if the freon was low the low pressure switch would shut the compressor off. the freon level shouldn't have anything thing to do with it. if you want to make sure it has nothing to do with it unplug the low pressure sensor (on the back of the compressor) and put a jumper wire in the pigtail, and try it out.

The compressor has noting electrical to it other than the clutch and the low pressure switch, you already have the clutch installed and if you use a jumper wire like i am talking about above that would tell you if your low pressure switch was causing the fuse to blow or of the problem was int he harness.
thanks for the idea. i'll try it out when i get a chance this weekend
 

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Discussion Starter #18
well, here i am again. i tried jumping the low pressure switch pigtail and the fuse popped again. should i leave the pigtail disconnected and jump the pins on the switch on the back of the compressor?
 

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if the pigtail is not plugged in the it does not matter what you do on the compressor, it will not change anything..
By jumping the pigtail all you did was verify that the low pressure switch was not the fuse popping culprit.

So you have a new clutch, and you know your low pressure switch is not the problem. start looking at your wires, try finding a used switch panel and see if that will help.. I am not sure where to turn from here...
 

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Check the wiring on the new clutch where it runs up and out from behind the pulley and see if it is damaged. It is possible that the wiring is being cut by the spinning pulley.
 
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