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97 rear drum brake issue (Getting Smoking HOT)?? Any help??

21K views 30 replies 8 participants last post by  ready81 
#1 ·
Well I'm not sure whats going on here but I replaced the drivers rear wheel seal and outer bearings the other day... cleaned everything really well, got a new brake piston (caliper) inside the drum, new pads, took pics before, installed it like it came off, its now that hard.... rolled the adjuster out just enough for the drum to slid over the shoes, drove it and came home its was smoking hot....today took it off loosened the adjuster, drove it 3 miles a little heat, hit the highway made a 6 mile loop came home it was smoking hot??? Took it off loosened it a little more made sure i rechecked things press the sides in, no leaks well see tomorrow what happens plan on driving it to work..... I have changed drums before i always adjust the shoes so the drum just slides on.. then back out and press the brakes and let the adjuster adjust for a couple of pumps.... Its not dragging or anything but its hotter than it needs to be...for sure... I did not change the other side of the brakes i placed the new ones up to the old ones and they were not that worn... so i cleaned the adjuster and parts then adjusted them like the other side. there not hot.... I have this brake pretty loose if it gets hot tomorrow, I guess I'll start looking around the parking brake tension, but I didnt mess with it at the change..

Any ideas or info would be great guys,,,,, Thanks, ready81
 
#3 ·
Was the drum as easy to take off as it was to originally put on (no shoe drag)? Almost sounds like the seal/bearing install may not be happy. Did the new seal and bearing turn just like the old one? (I ask this because I originally started with a 1 pc seal and it drug badly. Changed to the 2 pc scotseal xl and it was golden.)

I'm very familiar as I just finished installing my new shoes and pass side seal last Sunday. Im playing with shoe adjust right now (still a little loose) but my wheels are equal temp on both sides (cool).
 
#6 ·
honestly, for smoking hot, you'd think it should be the drums/shoes. But it would seem that if the shoes were dragging enough to get that hot, the drums would be very hard to remove. Did you smell brake lining when you returned from the drive? If they were that hot, you should have...

I'm planning to tighten up my shoes so we'll see....
 
#10 ·
The hub nut torque is a very specific process that requires the special socket. IIRC, the torque range is 55-65 lb/ft-- then, back off 5 clicks (new brg) or 8 clicks (used). I did 60# and -8 clicks.
 
#11 ·
IF the shoes show wear on the bottom, that is from the parking brake. if it's on the top of the shoe it's from the adjuster. I'd be looking for a parking brake cable hanging up.
 
#13 ·
Hmmm... pretty sure its the other way around. The park brake throws the top of the shoe into the drum and the adjuster moves the bottom half of the shoe into the drum.
 
#12 ·
Did you clean and lube all contact points on the brake backing plates?
I like to hit all contact points with a scotchbrite pad, get the metal nice and shiny and clean, and use the ACDelco silicone based lube on the contact points on the back of the shoes, as well as the pivot points on the top, as well as the pivot points for the adjuster. On the adjuster itself, wirewheel the threads, and hit them with some neverseize. Make sure that all the springs are in the right location and that the tops of the shoes are staying in place as well. I've seen where the tabs on the cheaper shoes arn't made right and it causes problems with rubbing, and abnormal wear.
Try engaging and disengaging the ebrake, while someones sprays the e-brake cable with lube if its stuck.
Also, this brake make be working more than the other side, since the friction material is newer. Did you re-adjust the drums after you bled the brakes? Both sides?
 
#15 ·
im officially over this wheel!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I changed the wheel seal again today, lifted it up checked everything is comparison to the other wheel and its all the same, readjusted the the brakes did a loop came back hot as hell still!!!!!!!!!!!!!! is it possible that this drum is warped??? when i put it on with my hands and press it tight to the axle it has a side to side movement like its not sitting flat?? I have racked my brain on this thing.... lubed every part really well on restall torqued to 60 with 8 clicks off... guess i have to have it looked at.... payed 50 bucks for that outer nut tool, 35 on first seal, 35 on the second, man this like snafu is adding up...

and now I just seen a exhaust under my turbo on the manifold coming up from the head!!! turbo will probably have to be pulled to tac weld it.......
 
#17 ·
Park brake draggin? I know on mine the park brake cables drivers side frame rail gets crude in them and sticks there. Because of this I very rarely if ever use the dang thing as you put it on..... release and it will not let go due to keerap and rust inside the cable sleeve. New park brake cables too?

jrc
 
#19 ·
I had the same issue with my 94's parking brake cable (after putting new aftermarket cables on). Water was getting into the sheath and freezing and causing corrosion. I switched back to OEM factory cable and didn't have the problem return. Cheers!
 
#20 ·
I've been doing more reading on this for you (and since I'm still adjusting mine) and the p brake hanging up is all that I can come up with now. Id be going through that assembly closely to see if when the wheel cyl applies pressure, it returns right away and doesnt get hung up (perhaps on the top assy where the shoes contact the p brake linkage). And also, that if the p brake is applied, the linkage returns correctly.

Supposedly, the common shoe adjustment/install direction is to adjust them with noticable drag (not to the point of wheel lockup but some drag) and this helps the shoe wear into the radius of the drum. The shoe's radius isnt perfect when new and it expected to wear in a little against the drum. Once it fits right, the auto adjuster can work much more effectively when applying the brakes in reverse.

thats my story for now and sticking to it...
 
#21 ·
i lube and pulled on the parking cable for 20 min., pulled the other side off to see if they both were working, did everything i could think of re installed with new wheels and tires made the loop, still hot..... Im leaving town sunday and done with this thing till then... when i return Im going to do the whole brake job over or have a pro. look at it to see if Im a dumb ass or not.... hoping that cheap Auto Zone piston caliper wheel cyl. is the problem but Im pissed and done!!! I have a bigger problem with my donut gasket leaking behind the turbo now, allowing exhaust fumes to enter the cab!!!! And the guys on here are saying its a total b*#!$ to remove the turbo..... so im a my end now because of the project having so much to do at once and then this..... But the truck cosmetically is pretty much done now, and when i return from work out of town for a week I should be raring to go on it!!!! for now not so much...... Tks for you alls input.....

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#22 ·
lol .... trust me I'm not laughing at you as we've been there. Good call to chill for the moment -- The turbo comes off, but the first time is more difficult and takes patience. You've done a lot of work.

Dang the truck looks bad azz... I'm very envious. One of these days mine may get the makeover, for now settling for running good.
 
#24 ·
I tightened the shoes and minimal heat after a 10 mile ride...I put 20+ clicks in them. The e brake pedal is real responsive now and the brake pedal gets firm about where it did before the repair, but it stops much better.

something I observed-- put on your e brake and go look where the cable goes 1 > 2 to see if the cables move evenly. I might have one brake that is a little tighter than the other (since one cable does not move as much as the other).
 
#25 ·
Make sure your shoes are sitting right on the top pivotpoint. I just seen a truck come in with some generic autozone/pepboys/advanced shoes and the tabs on the shoes weren't stamped correctly, and the parking brake drug alot.
We ended up replacing the shoes with monroes, and all was well.
 
#28 ·
We're just here to help brotha....sorry you stayed up last night. lol

I've got the Wagner Thermo Quiet stuff all the way around on mine. They seem to work ok.

My truck is a utility vehicle that is driven 5-6K/yr, but does mostly work; it tows trailers (utility and 28' enclosed car trailer), goes to the landfill, picks up lumber, etc. I use products on it that will work fine and keep it running but are not necessarily premium/performance.

Did you replace the shoes on both sides? have a dead spring that doesnt return the shoe?
 
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