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PSN Head First!
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Discussion Starter #1
Well I'm not sure whats going on here but I replaced the drivers rear wheel seal and outer bearings the other day... cleaned everything really well, got a new brake piston (caliper) inside the drum, new pads, took pics before, installed it like it came off, its now that hard.... rolled the adjuster out just enough for the drum to slid over the shoes, drove it and came home its was smoking hot....today took it off loosened the adjuster, drove it 3 miles a little heat, hit the highway made a 6 mile loop came home it was smoking hot??? Took it off loosened it a little more made sure i rechecked things press the sides in, no leaks well see tomorrow what happens plan on driving it to work..... I have changed drums before i always adjust the shoes so the drum just slides on.. then back out and press the brakes and let the adjuster adjust for a couple of pumps.... Its not dragging or anything but its hotter than it needs to be...for sure... I did not change the other side of the brakes i placed the new ones up to the old ones and they were not that worn... so i cleaned the adjuster and parts then adjusted them like the other side. there not hot.... I have this brake pretty loose if it gets hot tomorrow, I guess I'll start looking around the parking brake tension, but I didnt mess with it at the change..

Any ideas or info would be great guys,,,,, Thanks, ready81
 

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STILL LEARNING
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By the pics in your other thread everything appears to be good. Pull the drum and give it a once over making sure everything is good
 

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Was the drum as easy to take off as it was to originally put on (no shoe drag)? Almost sounds like the seal/bearing install may not be happy. Did the new seal and bearing turn just like the old one? (I ask this because I originally started with a 1 pc seal and it drug badly. Changed to the 2 pc scotseal xl and it was golden.)

I'm very familiar as I just finished installing my new shoes and pass side seal last Sunday. Im playing with shoe adjust right now (still a little loose) but my wheels are equal temp on both sides (cool).
 

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PSN Head First!
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Discussion Starter #5
No drag on any point , I put it on real snug no shove , then did it again, I put it on loose ,drive it tomorrow if its hot tomorrow at work moving to next problem area.
 

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honestly, for smoking hot, you'd think it should be the drums/shoes. But it would seem that if the shoes were dragging enough to get that hot, the drums would be very hard to remove. Did you smell brake lining when you returned from the drive? If they were that hot, you should have...

I'm planning to tighten up my shoes so we'll see....
 

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Discussion Starter #9
i tightened up the nut that holds the hub assembly on with a rubber mallet and screw driver until tight then backed off half turn.... think its that I really dont.....???
 

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The hub nut torque is a very specific process that requires the special socket. IIRC, the torque range is 55-65 lb/ft-- then, back off 5 clicks (new brg) or 8 clicks (used). I did 60# and -8 clicks.
 

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IF the shoes show wear on the bottom, that is from the parking brake. if it's on the top of the shoe it's from the adjuster. I'd be looking for a parking brake cable hanging up.
 

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Did you clean and lube all contact points on the brake backing plates?
I like to hit all contact points with a scotchbrite pad, get the metal nice and shiny and clean, and use the ACDelco silicone based lube on the contact points on the back of the shoes, as well as the pivot points on the top, as well as the pivot points for the adjuster. On the adjuster itself, wirewheel the threads, and hit them with some neverseize. Make sure that all the springs are in the right location and that the tops of the shoes are staying in place as well. I've seen where the tabs on the cheaper shoes arn't made right and it causes problems with rubbing, and abnormal wear.
Try engaging and disengaging the ebrake, while someones sprays the e-brake cable with lube if its stuck.
Also, this brake make be working more than the other side, since the friction material is newer. Did you re-adjust the drums after you bled the brakes? Both sides?
 

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IF the shoes show wear on the bottom, that is from the parking brake. if it's on the top of the shoe it's from the adjuster. I'd be looking for a parking brake cable hanging up.
Hmmm... pretty sure its the other way around. The park brake throws the top of the shoe into the drum and the adjuster moves the bottom half of the shoe into the drum.
 

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The hub nut torque is a very specific process that requires the special socket. IIRC, the torque range is 55-65 lb/ft-- then, back off 5 clicks (new brg) or 8 clicks (used). I did 60# and -8 clicks.
What he said. You CANT just beat it tight
 

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Discussion Starter #15
im officially over this wheel!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I changed the wheel seal again today, lifted it up checked everything is comparison to the other wheel and its all the same, readjusted the the brakes did a loop came back hot as hell still!!!!!!!!!!!!!! is it possible that this drum is warped??? when i put it on with my hands and press it tight to the axle it has a side to side movement like its not sitting flat?? I have racked my brain on this thing.... lubed every part really well on restall torqued to 60 with 8 clicks off... guess i have to have it looked at.... payed 50 bucks for that outer nut tool, 35 on first seal, 35 on the second, man this like snafu is adding up...

and now I just seen a exhaust under my turbo on the manifold coming up from the head!!! turbo will probably have to be pulled to tac weld it.......
 

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Discussion Starter #16
i cleaned the dog piss out of these parts but,,, I did not lube contact points..I cant say that its that important due to the age of the other side that is not hot.. im starting to wonder about the piston or those shoes!!!!
 

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Park brake draggin? I know on mine the park brake cables drivers side frame rail gets crude in them and sticks there. Because of this I very rarely if ever use the dang thing as you put it on..... release and it will not let go due to keerap and rust inside the cable sleeve. New park brake cables too?

jrc
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I going to check this parking brake situation out today,,, thanks for the heads up.... to me this could the only thing left.... keeping my fingers crossed!!!! thanks again
 

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I had the same issue with my 94's parking brake cable (after putting new aftermarket cables on). Water was getting into the sheath and freezing and causing corrosion. I switched back to OEM factory cable and didn't have the problem return. Cheers!
 

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I've been doing more reading on this for you (and since I'm still adjusting mine) and the p brake hanging up is all that I can come up with now. Id be going through that assembly closely to see if when the wheel cyl applies pressure, it returns right away and doesnt get hung up (perhaps on the top assy where the shoes contact the p brake linkage). And also, that if the p brake is applied, the linkage returns correctly.

Supposedly, the common shoe adjustment/install direction is to adjust them with noticable drag (not to the point of wheel lockup but some drag) and this helps the shoe wear into the radius of the drum. The shoe's radius isnt perfect when new and it expected to wear in a little against the drum. Once it fits right, the auto adjuster can work much more effectively when applying the brakes in reverse.

thats my story for now and sticking to it...
 
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