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Discussion Starter #1
-4 degrees, good extension cord, cranks and sputtered but didn't start. Is there a chance my block heater is bad?
 

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There's always a chance. More likely it's the cord. Simple test is one of these: Electric Monitor ; it should draw about 1000 W. You can also measure resistance at the plug on the grille, and right at the heater. Should be about 14 ohms. If there's good resistance at the heater, but a bad reading (much higher, or "open") at the plug up front, the cord is bad. Replacement cords are avail at NAPA. Put it on a timer, for 3-4 hours run; anything more just wastes power (money) and risks overheating the cord.

How long did you let the glow plugs run after the WTS light went out? Even with the block heater, at these temps, you want to give it a good 10 seconds extra. Are your GPs and relay good? Are BOTH batteries STRONG? Winter fuel? Any anti-gel additive?

Always good to check the block heater now and then. I had an inkling to check mine with my Kill-a-Watt last night before setting the timer. Sure 'nuff, the cord was fried at the grille end. Pics of the carnage in an upcoming thread.

NAPA was closed, truck is blocking all our other vehicles. No choice but to fab a fix. Found an old extension cord with a good plug a three good feet of wire. Spliced it in matching hot, neutral, ground, soldered and heat-shrinked everything. Couldn't zip-tie it back in place because the nylon just shattered in the cold, so it's tied in place with clothesline. Checked this morning, drawing a perfect 1016 watts.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
thanks man. I let the plugs cycle a few times. its probably a faulty cord. it tried to start so everything else should be good. winter fuel, additive, no problems yesterday when it was 20° out.
 

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No point in "cycling" the glow plugs. They stay on for up to two minutes, esp. at these temperatures. When you switch the key off and back on so many times, you just cycle the relay, which wears it out prematurely. If you have no block heater, and you're SURE your batteries are strong, leave the key in RUN for about 30 seconds after the WTS light goes off, then give it a try.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
ah ha ok. I'll keep that in mind. I know the gps are good because its started down in single digits unplugged before. It was below 0 for several hours last night.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
so... when I use an extension cord , does polarity matter? because a cord is $120 at the dealer, our only Napa doesn't carry them, and none of the other parts houses do either.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I feel I should mention that I have a 12ga cord to cut up. its not some chinsy dollar store cord.
 

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Technically, no, polarity doesn't matter, because you can plug the round end into the heater either way. But, if you look at the existing cord, you'll see lettering on the insulation on one of the conductors, and if you read it carefully, part of it says "Neutral conductor". One of the things I discovered last night in my cord rebuild adventure. Ground will be in the middle, with its own green insulation, and Hot will be the remaining conductor.

On the cord you cut up, inside, the three conductors should have black, white and green insulation. Black is hot, white is neutral and green is ground. I cut mine "staggered", so the hot was the longest and neutral was the shortest on one side, and hot was shortest and neutral was longest on the other. Ground was in the middle, lengthwise. That way the repair of each lead was not next to the repair of the other leads, so if there's a failure, it'll be less likely to short out right away.

I just called our NAPA; they have to get the cord out of a MN warehose, won't be here 'til Friday. Repair must have worked; I also had the batteries on a trickle charge, jumped in, gave the glow plugs a good 30 seconds total, turned the key and it nearly jumped to life. Still smoked like Marge Simpson's sisters, though.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
haha yup MN is the only place. there's a plug in Indy. sounds like I have a game plan. my truck is 20 miles away. so I gotta stop on the way home. what will I need connection wise? thanks again man you've been a huge help
 

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what will I need connection wise?
You mean for a replacement cord from NAPA? Nothing, if it's the right one. It's plug and play. Prob. good idea to cover with wire loom. Securement cap threads onto the fitting on the motor, then just course it along the frame and tie it up (if the zip-ties don't break lol), feed the 3-prong plug out the front and Bob's your uncle.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I was more wondering what you user to connect the extension cord to the block heater
 

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You don't plug the extension cord directly to the heater. That's what the heater cord is for. It has the round socket that connects to the heater on the oil cooler on one end, and a regular three-prong house-current plug on the other end.
 

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did you try just touching the side of the block by the oil filter to see if the heater is actually working or not? Or on mine the is actually warm.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
What I was refering to was if there were eyelet connections or spade connections ect where the cord (attatched to the truck) connects to the block heater because I had to stop on the way home for supplies. I've got it all straightend out now. The factory cord was warn through. I'm guessing from swinging back and forth against the grill for 17 yrs. I removed the cord and cut it about 6" above the factory heat resistant coating, and braided the strands of wire into the 12ga extension cord I had. Then I soldered them with good silver solder, heat shrinked them and taped the you know what out of them. and bobs my uncle. Thanks again guys. Now it'll get me to work. I an order a replacement cord and fix it right soon without missing time at work.
 
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