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hey everyone, new here, joined a few days ago, i am getting a 97 powerstroke engine with transmission and complete harness with 107,000 miles for $500.00, saved it from the scrap yard, anyway i am going to get rid of the transmission as it is automatic and only 2wd and swapping in a zf 5 speed, i have been doing some reading and was just wanting to know if there is anything i should do before i swap this into my truck? i have a 1997 f350, original engine was a 7.5l then that was swapped out for a 7.3 idi, bought the truck with the idi in it, i am going to pull the heads and everything off and put new o rings and gaskets and make sure all the internals are ok, might just throw some new bearings and rings while im in there, i was reading about the injector harness and it can get cut and cause the idm to go bad? is there an updated part for this? or can i make the repair myself?

any and all information is appreciated, i am not new to the mechanical world but the idi was my first diesel, had it a couple of years now and learned allot and now i want to move up in the world of diesel, love the sound of a powerstroke and the reliability,

one more thing to add, i am not going for a fast truck, just a factory setup powerstroke, i am going to intercool it as i have an intercooler but that is it for performance

name is Ryan by the way
 

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Discussion Starter #3
the pcm and idm are with the engine, and it does have duel batteries, the gas harness is in the truck, i no about the differences in harnesses for the dash between diesel and gas, i just would like to know if there is any updated parts i should put on it or maybe something i should change if it was a common issue
 

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If you really wanted to, you could build your own e-fuel set up for under $300. Also, if you wanted to, you could pull the turbo off and delete the ebpv and butterfly flap.
 

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Since these engines are realitively hardy I would do a compression test. (Since trans is still there as is the starter). If that checks out I would opt against pulling the heads, saving time and money. Instead replace the oil pan if it has rust, possibly have injectors tested if not atleast reseal them while engine is out of the truck. Modify for a 3" down pipe before installing engine. And go from there. I see no reason in essentially rebuilding a 100k mile engine that is going to stay around the stock hp level for a daily driver.

This is just me voicing MY opinion on your situation. Take it for what it's worth.

I just see a lot more potential for your time and money then tearing into something that doesn't need it.

Best of luck on your project!
 

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Discussion Starter #6
don't know if i would do the ebpv delete, its getting very cold in Michigan, been in the negatives that past few weeks, even gotten as far down as -35 degrees Fahrenheit with wind chill
 

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Since these engines are realitively hardy I would do a compression test. (Since trans is still there as is the starter). If that checks out I would opt against pulling the heads, saving time and money. Instead replace the oil pan if it has rust, possibly have injectors tested if not atleast reseal them while engine is out of the truck. Modify for a 3" down pipe before installing engine. And go from there. I see no reason in essentially rebuilding a 100k mile engine that is going to stay around the stock hp level for a daily driver.

This is just me voicing MY opinion on your situation. Take it for what it's worth.

I just see a lot more potential for your time and money then tearing into something that doesn't need it.

Best of luck on your project!
you make a good point, 107,000 miles isnt anything on the engine, its just broken in at that point, thanks
 

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don't know if i would do the ebpv delete, its getting very cold in Michigan, been in the negatives that past few weeks, even gotten as far down as -35 degrees Fahrenheit with wind chill

Oh I understand you're need for it! What you could do is delete the ebpv and get a 6pos chip with a 1200rpm hi idle!
 

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I was wondering the same thing; why tear down an engine that's barely out of the break-in period? If it's tight, I would think it's better to leave well enough alone.

Plenty of external possibilities. EBPV delete would be for starters as said. This might be the time to swap out to an International water pump with the built-in filter base. Reseal up-pipes (or go bellowed). DEF good call on the oil pan replacement if it's questionable. Or at least a re-seal. I like the idea of doing the floor/firewall flange for the downpipe while you've got the room to do it right.
 

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Oh I understand you're need for it! What you could do is delete the ebpv and get a 6pos chip with a 1200rpm hi idle!
That's what I did, truck warms up faster this way, and make sure the block heater works cuz when it's this cold in michigan it won't start. I found out my block heater cord went the first day of this -30 weather.
 

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Add the rear main to that list while it's out..... Don't Ask me why I say this.....
 

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Discussion Starter #12
anytime i have an engine out i always do the rear main seal, just in case, i was thinking about putting new rings and bearings just because at this point i don't really know how it is inside the engine, it is low miles but that doesn't mean all is good, i would hate to put it in to find out i got a main bearing spinning or something like that, but on the other hand i do know it ran when it was removed, i guess i shouldn't call it a powerstroke as its an international DT444, it was in a street sweeper for the city, the rear end blew on it so they took it to the scrap yard and that's when my buddy pulled it out of it,

and i could put the chip on it but im not really wanting to do that, just looking for a daily driver that will tow maybe once or twice a year, or haul something when i need to, not trying to put a whole bunch of money into it just whats needed to make a reliable good working truck, and like i said it is going to be a daily driver so i want to get the best fuel mileage i can
 

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The sweeper had an odometer, and not an hour meter?

The engine's provenance does throw the teardown notion into new light. 100,000 miles in a truck, given a WAG-stimate of 40 MPH average, would translate to 2500 hours run time. I'd bet a piece of equipment like that (I hesitate to call it a "vehicle"), at 100,000 miles, has closer to 10,000 hours on its clock, if not more.

It didn't have an EBPV, did it? Hmm, gotta wonder if it already has the Int'l water pump.... So you're sourcing the PCM/IDM from elsewhere? This will be an interesting project. Pics are absolutely required
 

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Discussion Starter #15
well when it comes time i will get the pics up, as of right now i am gathering all the information and parts before and, i havent gotten into it that much but would i need a different idm? i could understand the pcm, ill have to get more information from my buddy on it, he was the one that actaully seen it at the scrap yard, he has two of them, both from street sweepers, the one i am getting at 107,000 miles and one at 220,000 miles, and according to him it was an odometer, im assuming it came out of something like this

 

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Discussion Starter #16
i just did some checking and it seems like that style of street sweeper had an odometer and an hour meter, im assuming the hour meter would record when the equipment on the truck was being used, and the odometer obviously for every mile, ill find out when i get it home, haven't loaded it up yet and got it home, the transmission though i am positive is an e4od, its a 2wd, i think the pcm is there to drive the street sweeper but not run the equipment, probably had a ptu on it or something, don't know much about street sweepers
 

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Oh, I was thinking more of the kind of street sweeper that's a dedicated design. Didn't think about one that's based on a truck like the one above. Now it makes sense that it would have a speedometer; that is more of a "vehicle" than the street sweepers used here. It probably does have a conventional PCM / IDM. IDM should be interchangeable for sure.

Tranny is another question. The E4OD is a Ford-made transmission. I'm guessing International made their own A/Ts, and that's probably what's in that beast.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
it could be, but it looks exactly like the e4od but maybe they used the same case with different gear ratios? ill see what the numbers are when i pick it up, one thing that was kind of odd was one of the transmission had a brake on the rear output shaft and the other didn't, i don't know just have to get it home and start checking some numbers on everything
 

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Wouldn't that be an Allison behind it? I have a international dump truck with the t444e in it and it's got a 4 speed Allison in it. Looks the same as an e40d from the outside.
 
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