Ford Power Stroke Nation banner

1 - 20 of 39 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
16 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hi everyone, I'm a little stumped on my truck and looking for some help. I have a 97 F350 with a 7.3 and the truck was running fine but some of the fuel lines around the fuel bowl was dry rotted and leaking. I pulled the fuel bowl and cleaned it up and replaced the o rings with the mil spec o ring kit from Riff Raff. I cant get the truck to start. The fuel bowl is full, I have fuel at the Schrader valve and I even loosened the high pressure hoses coming off of the regulator and ensured there is fuel there too. I have a reading on the tach while cranking. What can I check next? Is it possible I accidentally switched the high pressure hoses on reinstallation? Would it matter?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
26 Posts
Do you have a heater in the bottom of your fuel bowl? I've read online that those can short out and blow a fuse that causes a no start.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
26 Posts
Yeah, I just looked it up and they said it's fuse #22 that powers the fuel bowl heater and the PCM. Symptoms also include fuel pump not coming on when you take the key to the on position.

Do you have a heater in the bottom of your fuel bowl? I've read online that those can short out and blow a fuse that causes a no start.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,575 Posts
The OBS truck has a mechanical fuel pump almost under the turbo, that is what the two hoses off of the filter housing to to.
If that fuse is blown you will not have the WTS light when you first turn the key on or any other light that should light up with a warning that would come from the PCM.

If you got some air into the system it could cause a hard start until it is purged. And these engines are self purging.

I'd check the fuel pressure on the schrader valve. You can do it with a standard pencil type air pressure gauge, just wrap it in a rag to keep from spraying diesel all over.

It could be possible to switch the hoses from the fuel pump to the filter housing but if they are switched checking the fuel pressure will quickly determine that.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
16 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Oh shoot I knew I left out something important in my first post. The fuel bowl heater element fell apart on me during the rebuild and given how much they cost as well as the warm climate here, I just decided to leave it unplugged. Fuse number 22 is good and the wts light comes on like it should. The fuel filter light comes on during cranking but I dont know what that means and I cant remember if it used to do that before.

The hoses to the fuel pump are right, it's the high pressure hoses with the flair fittings I'm not sure about.

I've already ran the batteries dead 4 times trying to get her to start so I'm beginning to think I have a different issue. I got it to run for about a half second on starting fluid twice. I'm beginning to suspect that the fuel system is just not working for whatever reason.
 

·
Project Shamu
Joined
·
2,573 Posts
50-60 psi on the Schrader valve. Check to make sure your IPR is plugged in too.

Is any smoke coming out the pipe while cranking?

Batteries must be atleast 10v while cranking, which sounds low, but you'd me amazed at how low a good battery will get, so make sure they are completely charged. Leave the charger on it while cranking too
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,575 Posts
50-60 psi on the Schrader valve. Check to make sure your IPR is plugged in too.
Just cranking it should be above 20 psi. That 50-60 psi is running. Remember the OBS has a mechanical fuel pump
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
16 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
I haven't had a chance to mess with the truck the last couple days but the last time I tried getting her to start I had 13.6 volts on the batteries and no smoke at all during cranking.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
16 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
I have no fuel pressure. One would expect the fuel pump is good since the truck ran before, so I'm thinking I assembled the regulator incorrectly, thoughts?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
26 Posts
I have no fuel pressure. One would expect the fuel pump is good since the truck ran before, so I'm thinking I assembled the regulator incorrectly, thoughts?
Sorry, I have a 2000 F250 and I think our fuel regulators are different. I don't think I can help.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
16 Posts
Discussion Starter #16
Oh wow, that thing is huge. Yeah, that's totally different than a 99-03 regulator
Yeah it was a pain in the friggin @*^ to reinstall cause all the hoses are brand new, on different sides of the fuel bowl and less than 3 inches long so they're very stiff. Theres also no room for me to get my bear paws in there to work on it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
102 Posts
First time I did mine, the regulator died on reinstall. It allowed fuel to pass completely and would not build pressure. If you took the regulator down to its base parts, I suspect your issue will be there. You can confirm that by seeing if you have fuel flow. If the fuel bowl filled up on its own, then you do have flow. If not, pull a line and stick it in a bottle to see if it fills it up. If you are getting flow but no pressure, it most likely is the regulator. Also, this is kinda dumb, but it happened to me a month or two ago. Had a buddy with a truck that would not start. Tried to diagnose it and found he wasn't getting fuel pressure. Turned out that he ran the truck out of fuel...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
102 Posts
Side note: the heater in the bowl is only to melt wax to prevent the filter from plugging up. It is not to help warm up the fuel for cold starts. That's straight from Ford's Theory of Operation.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,385 Posts
Mine looks like this if that helps anyone reading.
View attachment 200930
Just a wild guess I'm throwing in here, that filter cap looks odd. Has it ran previously with that same cap and filter combo?

I once received an off brand filter, don't remember what brand, that didn't have the little nipple inside, and wouldn't open the valve in the stand pipe. It was a defect, just one of those things.

Sent from my E6810 using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
26 Posts
Side note: the heater in the bowl is only to melt wax to prevent the filter from plugging up. It is not to help warm up the fuel for cold starts. That's straight from Ford's Theory of Operation.
That's good info for all. Thanks for that
 
1 - 20 of 39 Posts
Top