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I would say just paint the wheels.

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Discussion Starter #622
I got a call from the trans shop yesterday. Turns out the rear housing was cracked. So we are on the lookout for one of those. And I did find a complete zf5 from a friend for cheap so I put that one in and it's good! So if I cant find a tailjoising I'll probably have them weld it and then the rebuilt one can sit as a spare.

Took it for a drive and everything went great except my other brake caliper looked up. Idk why I didnt just do both to being with

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Discussion Starter #623
Ok so I havent been able to get this thing to start like it should. The only thing i did to it motor wise was the used injectors from my crew cab. It will just crank and crank and not fire, but if I give it a sniff of ether it will pop right off(glow plugs off of course). I've driven it about 100 miles and yanked a trailer around for 50 of them. Todau It ran for 6hrs no issues whatsoever but I shut it off and 2 min later it wont restart again. I'm gonna hook up a fuel pressure gauge and plug my computer into it tommorow, but if anyone has any other ideas on stupid things to check that would be great


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Discussion Starter #624
On my bullnose swapped powerstroke that I built this winter I'm having troubles getting it started. The interior is from an 89 so all the wiring in the interior is spliced into the 89 switches and such. I dont believe my problem is electrical however. The only thing I did to it motor wise was I put different injectors in it. They are a used set out of my other truck. I believe they are baby swamps and I did do new o rings on them when I installed them.

If I give the truck a shot of ether(glow plugs unhooked) it will fire up and run perfectly. I have put probably 100 miles and 10hrs of idle time on it since the swap(between 2 different start ups) and 50 of those miles had a trailer and I definitely was working it so I dont believe that it's still got air in the system. And after it had ran for 6hrs i shut it off and 2 min later it still wouldn't restart.

Today I hooked up to it and had the icp maxing out at 250ish psi. So I replaced the ipr thinking it was stuck open. I have had a fuel gauge spin in and it was at like 40-50psi while cranking. No tach movement but i replaced the cps with one that was good 6mo ago for sure(I dont ever think I've had tach movement in this truck). And no smoke from the exhaust while cranking. Batteries are fine and I've had the charger on it the whole time too. And it cranks like a bat outahell so I would say the starter is also fine.

Before I took this truck apart the 7.3 powetroke was about the happiest 7.3 I'd ever seen. Started and ran amazing. So my question is is it possible that I somehow screwed up an o ring during the install that wont let it build enough pressure to start? I've tried searching for anything on that and come up with nothing

To sum it up I think I have a oil issue or fuel issue. Glow plugs and electrical i dont think are my problem.

That was my post yesterday. No replies.

Anyway with the new ipr I can get up to about 360psi. My ae wont read as its cranking for some reason, everything will just go to zero. But the second I let off the key is when I can get that number and then it will slowly go down.

Swapped in another known good cps. Still no bounce on the tach and I cant read it with the ae as It to shows 0 while cranking.

I pulled the valve covers to see if it was pissing oil while cranking. Nothing. So I pulled all 8 injectors. All o rings were new when I installed the injectors and all looked perfect. I'm kinda lost. Is it possible that an injector itself would have an issue where it was causing it not to build pressure? They were fine in my crew cab until I grenaded the motor. I did notice I was down 2.5 qts of oil in 100 miles.

Any ideas guys? Before I say piss on it and put an idi in there?

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Try a mechanical gauge in the icp port. Maybe hpop is weak.

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I was thinkin a gauge also. I know you said you had a spin on fuel filter, is the stock one still there too. If so there is a screen on the fuel pressure regulator , maybe its plugged.
 

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Discussion Starter #627
I was thinkin a gauge also. I know you said you had a spin on fuel filter, is the stock one still there too. If so there is a screen on the fuel pressure regulator , maybe its plugged.
I spun a gauge into the stock fuel bowl. No additional filters. But I will check that too

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HPOP,

look at jax's rebuild.... last 10 pages or so covers her no restart while warm....

Do you have a spare "good" hpop?
 

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Discussion Starter #629
HPOP,

look at jax's rebuild.... last 10 pages or so covers her no restart while warm....

Do you have a spare "good" hpop?
This Is no start cold or warm but i do think i could round up a spare one to give a try

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Discussion Starter #631
Might have an issue with the injector cups too.....
If that was the case wouldnt I have noticed something while it was running?

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If you have a HPO leak I am not sure. I know if it is on the fuel side you would see issues.... Honestly not sure. but HPO is going somewhere....
 

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Man, looking over all the build threads here makes me want to get through the gasser projects i have and get started on the 53 Mack conversion..... I want to put that cab on a 6.0 4X4 F450 chassis with a roll back tow deck and stinger...
 

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Discussion Starter #634
Man, looking over all the build threads here makes me want to get through the gasser projects i have and get started on the 53 Mack conversion..... I want to put that cab on a 6.0 4X4 F450 chassis with a roll back tow deck and stinger...
That would be pretty sweet!

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I am beginning to think that one of your power wires at the controllers is not hot during cranking. Maybe try turning your key to the run position and using a remote start button try starting it and see if it works. I'm thinking a wire is hot in the run but not start position!
 
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Let'er Buck!
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If the injectors aren’t getting the electrical command to fire when cranking, then you won’t get any oil coming from them, no smoke from tailpipe, and no start.

Does your “wait to start” light come on when you turn the key on? Fuses/relays for Pcm and idm good?

Like heavy doc mentioned, it’s like there’s not a key on hot signal being sent to command the injectors to fire at initial crank.
 

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Discussion Starter #637
I will check that after I re ring the injectors and put them back in. So you guys are thinking just turn the key to run and then jump the solenoid? Everything seems to work like it should as for the wait to start and such but the no tach made me wonder a little bit but then it did loose 2 qts of oil as well

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Yep
 

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My one IDI is real picky with it's spin on fuel filter, I have to set it on with oil. If it drags the slightest bit, it will leak down, and do a no start hot or cold. Spray either at the filter while someone is cranking, see if it farts.

I know its a powerstroke, but spin on filter is still the same.
 

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Discussion Starter #640
I am beginning to think that one of your power wires at the controllers is not hot during cranking. Maybe try turning your key to the run position and using a remote start button try starting it and see if it works. I'm thinking a wire is hot in the run but not start position!
You were correct! I was killing the power to the fuse box when it would go to start!

I believe my altenator is shot too. So I need to get one of those and do a little rewiring and I should be good to go!

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