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Discussion Starter #1
need help, i got a new valve cover gasket installed new pigtails and ran the truck with the valve cover off on the passenger side all injectors where dumping oil but the truck is still blowing white smoke while running, when you put it in gear and hit the gas pedal i blows white smoke out like crazy and losses all power, my glow plug relay is buzzing when you turn the key on but quits as soon as the wait to start light turns off. i am at a loss on this one. also truck ran great before i did the vcg, this is the 2nd gasket i have put in.
 

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When you did the pigtails, did you possibly mess up the injectors' wiring order? If the injector wires get out of order, they will essentially be injecting fuel at the wrong time. Any Check Engine Light (CEL)? The GPR being ON or OFF should really have nothing to do with the WTS light (unless its coincidental). To check the glowplug relay (GPR), measure the voltage drop across the GPR's large terminals. While the GPR is active (up to 1.5 to 2 minutes after the key is turned to Wait-to-Start) put your meter leads on the large terminals (one lead on one large terminal and the other lead on the other large terminal). This measures how much voltage is being "lost" across the relay. A reading of 0.3V or more indicates a bad relay. Also, check the relay’s control wires (smaller wires) disconnected from the relay for battery voltage at the Red/Light Green striped wire and ground at the Purple/Orange striped wire (check both when the key is turned to Wait-to-Start). Cheers!
 
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When you did the pigtails, did you possibly mess up the injectors' wiring order? If the injector wires get out of order, they will essentially be injecting fuel at the wrong time. Any Check Engine Light (CEL)? The GPR being ON or OFF should really have nothing to do with the WTS light (unless its coincidental). To check the glowplug relay (GPR), measure the voltage drop across the GPR's large terminals. While the GPR is active (up to 1.5 to 2 minutes after the key is turned to Wait-to-Start) put your meter leads on the large terminals (one lead on one large terminal and the other lead on the other large terminal). This measures how much voltage is being "lost" across the relay. A reading of 0.3V or more indicates a bad relay. Also, check the relay’s control wires (smaller wires) disconnected from the relay for battery voltage at the Red/Light Green striped wire and ground at the Purple/Orange striped wire (check both when the key is turned to Wait-to-Start). Cheers!
no check engine light i did one wire at a time but ill get back under there and check
 

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Beat me to it! Oh well, for refernce anyway: See the attached diagrams (1 diagram for driver's side cylinders 2, 4, 6, 8; and 1 diagram for passenger side cylinders 1, 3, 5, 7) on both diagrams each 5-pin connector pin labeling should be A-E. On 028-004, the square boxes don't seem to have the cylinder number as does 028-003. They should be labeled (left to right): #1, #3, #1, #3 for the left block and#5, #7, #5, #7 for the right block (similar to 028-003 ... my paper EVTM version of the diagram has it that way for reference).

Confusing I know. Cheers!
 

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Beat me to it! Oh well, for refernce anyway: See the attached diagrams (1 diagram for driver's side cylinders 2, 4, 6, 8; and 1 diagram for passenger side cylinders 1, 3, 5, 7) on both diagrams each 5-pin connector pin labeling should be A-E. On 028-004, the square boxes don't seem to have the cylinder number as does 028-003. They should be labeled (left to right): #1, #3, #1, #3 for the left block and#5, #7, #5, #7 for the right block (similar to 028-003 ... my paper EVTM version of the diagram has it that way for reference).

Confusing I know. Cheers!
Thank you so much for all the help
 
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