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Discussion Starter #1
I have a 97 F350 cab n chassis 2wd dually 7.3 and when I got it 15 months ago it would drive and shift correctly until warmed up...let me be more detailed... When it's cold 20 degrees out I can drive 5 blocks and get on highway and it won't lock converter. After it warms up, it won't shift out of first gear, unless you redline engine and let off throttle and then it will most likely shift, and it seams to skip third and likes to keep the converter locked over 30mph. The OD light doesn't flash. I changed fluid and filter, completely and still the same. So I assumed it was third gear slipping when warmed but.
I've been driving it everyday for 12 months manually shifting it 1st to 2nd in town and drive on highway waiting for it to crap out and I would replace it.... But the fluid was good when I changed it the first time and looks new still today. So I decided it must be electronic so I cleaned the connection to the seloniod pack and that hasn't helped,
My speedometer works fine but does that mean the sensor is good to tell tranny to shift? I'm seeing a lot of people fixing shift problem with TRS going bad. But it's weird shift fine when cold and after warm it won't automatically shift from first so I manually shift to second then back to drive, it sometimes stays in 3rd and sometimes skips it. When cold in 3rd gear I can full throttle it with chip setting on high and it don't slip?? I put roughly 60miles a day on it and getting tired of manually shifting a automatic.
Maybe step one is to replace the TRS?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
No, but it has a flatbed that I put on it, the wires had been butchered before, I wonder if I have wired my taillights up to the trailer harness side, and wired my trailer plug to the taillights?
Guess I need a harness diagram to tell me which is which... The diagrams I used off google when I did it didn't show the harness I have it was for a F250. So my truck being a F350 cab n chassis I ended up if I can remember I used the colors of as a trailer for the trailer and there was odd ball colors on separate pigtail I used for taillights on truck... But now as you say that it does seam to blink fast??? But would it matter.... If you drive 30+mph and turn flashers on the lockup kicks in and out? As if I tap the brake enough to engage switch it will disengage the lockup?

If I plug in a trailer with working lights will it simulate taillights if I do have them backwards?
 

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Here is a update, I changed the TRS "neutral safety switch" and what do you know it works! I feel dumb for not checking more into it.. I took the old one off and it's about 30 outside, and tested all positions and they were same as new.... After a coffee break and it warmed up to room temperature I decided to double check and it didn't test..... It's amazing how cheap made things are..
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Okay so my test drive yesterday was false, I must not of got trans warmed up enough. Today I drove 12 miles, within first 3 miles I stopped and took off and it did same no shift from first.
 

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Powerstroke Tech
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Okay so my test drive yesterday was false, I must not of got trans warmed up enough. Today I drove 12 miles, within first 3 miles I stopped and took off and it did same no shift from first.
Did you figure this out yet? Did you replace the trs and it still did the same thing?
 

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golden gurl
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i had the same exact issues with my e4od in my 1997 250 4x4. I have external trans temp gauge that would indicate that I had melted the tranny within a few miles of driving. it took a cpl years of this before it actually did start the no shift from 1st thing. I ignored the gauge cuz it was obviously bad. In the end my friend the tranny had to come out and be rebuilt. there was no getting around it.
 

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Powerstroke Tech
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I have a 97 F350 cab n chassis 2wd dually 7.3 and when I got it 15 months ago it would drive and shift correctly until warmed up...let me be more detailed... When it's cold 20 degrees out I can drive 5 blocks and get on highway and it won't lock converter. After it warms up, it won't shift out of first gear, unless you redline engine and let off throttle and then it will most likely shift, and it seams to skip third and likes to keep the converter locked over 30mph. The OD light doesn't flash. I changed fluid and filter, completely and still the same. So I assumed it was third gear slipping when warmed but.
I've been driving it everyday for 12 months manually shifting it 1st to 2nd in town and drive on highway waiting for it to crap out and I would replace it.... But the fluid was good when I changed it the first time and looks new still today. So I decided it must be electronic so I cleaned the connection to the seloniod pack and that hasn't helped,
My speedometer works fine but does that mean the sensor is good to tell tranny to shift? I'm seeing a lot of people fixing shift problem with TRS going bad. But it's weird shift fine when cold and after warm it won't automatically shift from first so I manually shift to second then back to drive, it sometimes stays in 3rd and sometimes skips it. When cold in 3rd gear I can full throttle it with chip setting on high and it don't slip?? I put roughly 60miles a day on it and getting tired of manually shifting a automatic.
Maybe step one is to replace the TRS?

Hopefully this helps... I just went through similar occurence 1st would wind up and only shift if i let off but it would also just shift into 3rd sometimes. I did lots of guessing and hours of chasing what i knew nothing about. Turns out accumlator body had stuck 1-2 valve. Heres the kicker though replaced the accumulator body with a "reman" ebay special and whadya know no change. A friend of a friend suggested i run a bottle of trans additive for sticky valves and run the truck with the rear wheels off the ground in reverse for a good while. I did this and to my utter disbelief it worked. I used lucas trans conditioner. He thinks the valve body was assembled lord knows how long ago and probably wasnt properly lubed up, whatever the case may be i would suggest the reverse with wheels up for 30-40 minutes with some type of additive and see what happens. Worst case drop pan remove accumlator, imo very simple for anyone that knows there way around a wrench, and inspect all the valves thoroughly and if you buy a reman make sure you inspect it too before install unlike me! Really hope this helps someone i haven't really found a definitive fix for this type of problem anywhere I've looked, not saying this is it but its something. Good luck :smile:
 
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