Ford Power Stroke Nation banner

1 - 16 of 16 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
85 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hello, I have a 97 F-250 7.3 4x4. Im interested in converting it to run off of SVO. I looked under at the two tanks, and this is what I noticed. It has a duel tank and four lines run into the fuel pump. Im assuming its the fuel pump. Two lines leading out into the engine from the pump.

First question.

Is there only that one fuel pump for both tanks? Does the switch activate that fuel pump to pump fuel from either tank?

Biodiesel has a tendency to eat rubber, So that would consist of replacing all rubber fuel lines to Bio fuel compatible. Will it also eat my pump??

Is there any reason why I Should Not Use my existing tank for SVO, Other than the fact it eats rubber and gaskets lol.


What are your thoughts? Thanks!

:ford:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
561 Posts
Well which one is it? SVO? Or Biodiesel? Not the same thing.

And I think thats just the switching unit. The pump should be up in the valley of your engine.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,865 Posts
correct.

The 97 use mechanical pump. If you plan to run SVO year round you will need a kit or to get all the parts yourself. If you plan to run bio diesel you don't need t o do anything but fill the tanks with it. I would add extra filtration no matter what.
 

·
Peon Extraordinaire
Joined
·
1,880 Posts
You need to go read in the Bio-Diesel/Alternate fuel section for awhile. That will help you better understand what you want to do and then formulate better questions...

You don't want to run SVO with a stock fuel system. It will eat the rubber, kill the fuel pump, coke your injectors, coke your engine, and clog your filters. In order to run SVO, you need to make a number of, albeit small, modificiations.

Depending on your location and the ambient temperature at night, you can run Bio in your truck with no modificitions. If the ambient temperature is too low, you will not want to run Bio unless you modify one of your tanks for heat.

Sam
 

·
Village Idiot
Joined
·
8,209 Posts
talk to bob at dieselsite , he had an obs fuel system out , I know he switched is sd sytems to be svo and biodiesel friendly, so I assume his others would be as well.
 

·
Peon Extraordinaire
Joined
·
1,880 Posts
Bob's fuel system is not enough to run SVO. Or even Bio if the ambient temperature at night gets too low. He switched his fuel line to be B-100 compatible but it doesn't address clouding or heat. You will still coke your injectors, engine, and clog filters without a properly designed system.

Sam
 

·
Village Idiot
Joined
·
8,209 Posts
DOH ..your right i am thinking biodiesel .
wvo & svo will need a heater added.
 

·
HRT Performance
Joined
·
4,565 Posts
Hello, I have a 97 F-250 7.3 4x4. Im interested in converting it to run off of SVO. I looked under at the two tanks, and this is what I noticed. It has a duel tank and four lines run into the fuel pump. Im assuming its the fuel pump. Two lines leading out into the engine from the pump.

First question.

Is there only that one fuel pump for both tanks? Does the switch activate that fuel pump to pump fuel from either tank?

Biodiesel has a tendency to eat rubber, So that would consist of replacing all rubber fuel lines to Bio fuel compatible. Will it also eat my pump??

Is there any reason why I Should Not Use my existing tank for SVO, Other than the fact it eats rubber and gaskets lol.


What are your thoughts? Thanks!

:ford:
That device is not a pump - it is your selector valve that allows you to choose which tank your fuel pump (in the valley on an OBS) is pulling from as well as what tank your return is going to.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
561 Posts
With dual tanks you could probably set it up to have diesel in one and your SVO in the other. Uber-filtration on the SVO, and a good heating system in the tank to keep it from waxing in the cooler temps.

You start up on diesel, let it warm up a bit, switch to SVO, then a mile or 2 before your destination switch back to diesel, to allow it to circulate back through the system.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
85 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
Thanks guys! Very helpful. Im very aware of the fact that I need to change the rubbers, fuel pump, and add coolant filters and a sedimentator. Im thinking thats all I need for now. I have a bradford built flatbed that Heats up quick. With the fuel tanks under that. Im sure it will heat up the oil fine. Some days it gets so hot you cant even work off it! I dont have enough WVO to run all the time. Just every so often when the conditions are good. But im still a little worried about the WVO eating the "Selector valve" (thank you hotrodtractor) Could it eat anything in the existing fuel tank?

One more question, after all the fuel filters/ heating sorces, Past that into the engine. Im assuming I dont have to make any other modifications in the engine/jets. right?
 

·
What else?
Joined
·
4,156 Posts
You need to put a heater in the tank you run WVO in, my Dad did this with his last truck, which was an OBS(an IDI at that). His rear tank was for WVO, and we ran the coolant lines back to it, and it worked great.

You need to heat the oil to around 180* so it will flow smoothly, a flatbed warmed by the sun overtop of it will not be enough.

But first you need to do some reading before you start dumping oil in, alot of reading. You can hurt expensive parts like the injectors in a hurry if you do something wrong with WVO or Biodiesel, trust me, I've seen it. :doh:

Dave
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
561 Posts
Ever seen the oil pulled out of fryers? Let it cool, and even at 100 degrees its still kind of milky.
Not to mention at 8:00AM when you go to run the truck with a light coat of frost on the flatbed (I'm just inputting a Colorado scenario heh) it might take until 2:00PM before the sun even had the WVO or SVO thin enough to contemplate being a fuel.

Start of diesel, let it get warm (a coolant-fed heater in the veggie tank needs to circulate for a while AFTER you get warm air in the vents) then make the switch. But be sure to switch back to diesel for long enough for it to circulate before you shut her down, unless you plan on starting again within 15 minutes to an air, depending on ambient temp.
 

·
Underfunded
Joined
·
431 Posts
Not worth the cost of converting to run on WVO/SVO or Bio. Ran B-100 in my system for a summer, it ate the OEM o-rings up, the only o-rings that weren't expanded thus destroyed were the injector ones (The injectors were new and had Bio-safe rings on/in/around them).
If I were you, id look at the cost of a new powerstroke engine then ask yourself if its really worth running inferior fuel in your truck to just save a few cents...
Cause my cost calculations havent turned up much of a benefit, just some personal experience on my part, everyone has to learn their own way.
 

·
Peon Extraordinaire
Joined
·
1,880 Posts
Not worth the cost of converting to run on WVO/SVO or Bio. Ran B-100 in my system for a summer, it ate the OEM o-rings up, the only o-rings that weren't expanded thus destroyed were the injector ones (The injectors were new and had Bio-safe rings on/in/around them).
If I were you, id look at the cost of a new powerstroke engine then ask yourself if its really worth running inferior fuel in your truck to just save a few cents...
Cause my cost calculations havent turned up much of a benefit, just some personal experience on my part, everyone has to learn their own way.
A properly set up system will avoid most of those problems... Here is my cost calculation:

Conversion: $3000 (buying a professional kit)

SVO Fuel Costs: $0.75 (This is purchasing prefiltered ready to burn fuel, not processing myself)
Diesel Fuel Costs: $3.00
Difference per gallon $2.25

Cost of conversion/per gallon cost: 1,333 Gallon Used Break Even Point
Assume 16 miles per gallon: 21,333 Driven Mile Break Even Point

I was averaging (stupid ninja squirrels) ~18,000 miles per year. So the first 14 months of driving and it paid for itself. At a savings of $2.25 per gallon, the next year will buy a NEW set of injectors.

My point is simple, if you invest the money and time into the initial conversion, it is worthwhile. If you think you can pour SVO into one of your tanks and run it, you are going to ruin expensive parts...

Sam
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
85 Posts
Discussion Starter #16
Thank you all for your info. This has helped me out. Im thinking I better just not mess with it, and try to do it myself. Like in everything I do. I better just look into some kits If im going to really do this. What do you guys think about Greasecar product? http://www.greasecar.com
 
1 - 16 of 16 Posts
Top