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Discussion Starter #1
I JUST BOUGHT THIS TRUCK AND FROM WHAT I CAN TELL IT IS MOSTLY STOCK. 7.3 WITH 5 SPEED, SHIFTING FROM 2-5 ALL GEARS GRIND A LITTLE BUT DOES GO INTO ALL GEARS FAIRLY EASY, FROM 5-2 ALL GEARS GRIND A LITTLE, AND VERY HARD TO GO IN R , WITH NO GRINDING ? I AM GOING TO CHECK THE BUSHING ON THE CLUTCH LINKAGE FIRST, JUST WANTED SOME THOUGHTS ON MY PROBLEM, ALSO WHEN LETTING OFF THE CLUTCH THERE IS NO PLAY IT TAKES OFF AS SOON AS I START TO LET IT OUT.?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
DO YOU HAVE ANY SUGGESTIONS ON HOW TO FIX THIS PROBLEM?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
is there any adjustment ? am i going to have to replace the pp?
 

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First thing I'd do is get rid of the plastic bushing on the clutch linkage. Look under the dash, follow the clutch assembly, and you'll see where the clutch pedal presses onto the clutch master cylinder rod. There's a cheap plastic bushing that holds the master cylinder rod to the clutch pedal lever.

Don't even bother getting a new plastic bushing from Ford, this is IMHO the worst design feature of our trucks.

There's two ways to fix this once and for all. I replaced the plastic bushing with a bronze bushing, using a drill stop collar as a retainer.

The second method is to buy a Heim joint off of Ebay (sorry I don't have a link) which replaces the rod end.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
thanks bill for the info. i just replaced the plastic bushing ( what a joke-come on u guys at ford) i made my own bushing out of a spent 300 win. mag shell,this work nearly perfect with a inside fit okay, and a outside fit perfect. to you guys thinking about doing the same, take your time cutting the shell casing( let the saw do the cutting) as it is easy to bend the casing on the second cut, anyways just doing this very easy fix my truck will shift 1-5 with no problems at all, very easy and very smooth( i cant believe that plastic bushing was causing all those problems. also bill i seen in another post where u changed your master cyl. with a alum. one, if i decide to do this will i need to change the slave also? if so do you have the part # ? anyways thanks for the help. Steve from Alpena
 

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Here's what happened: about 10 years or so ago, the original master cylinder push rod end "eye" broke (it was just plastic too!). Somewhere there was a bulletin calling for an upgrade to a MC with a metal rod end, BUT of course there was a catch. The old hose won't fit the new MC. And a new hose that fits the new MC won't fit the old slave cylinder. So to upgrade, you had to buy the MC and the hose and the slave cylinder. So I did, and all worked well, until I upgraded my clutch last summer. I couldn't get the system to bleed for the life of me, so I bought the aluminum-body MC that you saw.

If I had to do it all over again, I'd buy the pre-assembled/pre-bled MC/hose/slave from Rock Auto. (Then of course put my brass bushing in the rod end eye of the new MC rather than the Ford plastic one)

More info courtesy of Steve Baz's site:

"In the event that the Plastic clutch master cylinder rod has broken, you will be compelled to do one of two things to make the repair. You will either purchase a new clutch master cylinder, or you could find a metal clutch master rod and modify it (grinding) to fit the existing old style clutch master. Well if you figure you will just suck it up and buy the Master, well there is a problem: If you choose to purchase a new clutch master cylinder you will be forced to purchase three additional hydraulic clutch components, to the tune of $350. The reason for this is that Ford no longer sells a direct replacement for the original clutch master cylinder. They sell an “improved” replacement clutch master that uses a steel rod. (This clutch master is the one currently used on 1996- 1997 Manual Transmission F-Series’.) It is entirely incompatible with the hydraulic clutch components that are in your truck. Unfortunately, if you choose this route, this fix is going to involve bringing a shopping bag to the dealer because this is what you will need to get you shifting again:

· New Clutch master cylinder with metal rod Ford Part # F2TZ7A543D
· New Slave cylinder Ford Part # E3TZ7A564A
· New Neutral Safety Switch Ford Part # FF57Z11A152A
· New High Pressure Line Ford Part #. F5TZ7A512A

One good thing about the 1996 – 1997 F-Series is that the metal rod is unlikely to break but if it does the only replacement part needed would be the Clutch master cylinder. Or find a rod in a junkyard."
 
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