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Discussion Starter #1
I know theres a bunch of no start threads...ive read most of em. im getting to the end of my rope here really discouraged and need this truck to work like yesterday.

lil backstory...had the truck basically stock minus an intake, downpipe and exhaust...ran great...slow but great!....soo I went and bought a hydra chip, followed the video cleaning instructions to the T (and yes im very mechanically inclined)...I go to reinstall the pcm into the truck and when I go to start it it cranks but doesn't fire...try multiple times...then ok I verify the tunes are loaded on the chip etc...everything checks out still nothin... soo I go to remove the chip to go back to stock now the truck will crank but wont start.....WTS light comes on, no codes nothin just crank and crank and nothin.

Going through the No Start flowchart...part shotgunning commences...new motorcraft CPS...it chacks out with the tach movement. still no start....
change the Glow Plug relay....still no start...verify proper amperage is being sent out (120amps) its working as it should...but no start
Next I open the fuel bowl...filter and fuel look clean...I depress the center plunger and crank it over and fuel fills up so cool the lift pump is working.
then I stick a gauge on the regulator cranking it over it reads 55-60psi...that's good.
I then clean the FPR sceen and reassemble...still no start...
IPC I unplug it and ….still no start.
change out the IPR next and even check for 12v to the solenoid and then voltage thru the solenoid is about 1.78V run out thru the little harness that's attached to the fuel bowl which also checks out correct from my understanding....still no start.
I check all the fuses and Diode and relays for proper function, theyre all good.
got a new PCM same DPC-202 code garunteed blah blah blah....still no start.
checked all the grounds in the engine bay and cleaned them then checked the ground pins in the connector that goes to the PCM all ohm out to like 10ohms max which is good.
changed the IDM out for a new one...still no start.
got a Bluetooth scanner and no codes and did the injector buzz test and everything checks out good.
Now im starting to run out of things to try.
plug the block heater in for the day....and when trying to do some live data logging it sputtered and coughed to life randomly for a few minutes before dying again and I got it to somewhat sputter to life again but had to give it gas as it would not idle and it ran rough....now you crank it for a solid ten seconds and it might sound like its hardly firing a cylinder or two...just enough to spin more than the starter.....and that gentleman is where im currently at.
truck has 139k on it and was not driven hard at all its whole life...it literally ran tits before the chip attempt...and now Ive exhausted my limited knowledge with this truck and am about stumped....what am I missing? please help... ill mail you a case of beer
 

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That probably means a burnt pin or several. Are the pig tails in good shape?

Somewhere on here is a test for checking the UVCH connections with an ohm meter. ( Under Valve Cover Harness) I'll see about linking it for you.

Look into the plastic plug (female) in the gasket. Do you see any burnt pins, cracked plastic, or other damage?

Sent from my E6810 using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #4
That probably means a burnt pin or several. Are the pig tails in good shape?

Somewhere on here is a test for checking the UVCH connections with an ohm meter. ( Under Valve Cover Harness) I'll see about linking it for you.

Look into the plastic plug (female) in the gasket. Do you see any burnt pins, cracked plastic, or other damage?

Sent from my E6810 using Tapatalk
ill check in the morning... from what I think ive found the glow plugs should read about .7 to 1.3ohms and the injectors about 3-4 ohms? sound right?
 

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Yeah, sounds close. Be sure to check the injector pins for a short to ground also. It's not an uncommon thing for the glow plug pins to melt the plastic, and short out an injector.

Sent from my E6810 using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #6
ok i cant sleep so I ohmed out the valve cover harnesses and this is what ive found
Passenger bank strating from the firewall going forward:
GP: 18.1.....not good
GP2: 1.9
Injector:4.0
Injector 2: 4.0
GP: 3.2
GP2: 3.2
DRIVER SIDE BANK:
GP: 1.9
GP2: infinite.....not good
Injector: 3.8
Injector 2:4.1
GP: infinite….not good lol
GP 2: 1.8
injector: 4.3
Injector 2: 4.3

all the connectors are wet with oil...nothing looks burnt externally..gunna pull the covers tomorrow and swap the harnesses out its lookin like...kinda happy I found something legit definitively wrong lol
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Ok changed the harnesses and all the glow plugs...Still no start...

You crank it a while and when u see the icp command a couple thousand psi...it sputters sort of and some smoke puffs a little but it wont run
 

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For starters, I would recommend double checking the plug and harness at the PCM, since it ran before that was disturbed. Look for bad wires, bent pins, all that stuff, you know the drill.

Kinda hard to diagnose stuff like that over the interwebs, but here is my advice, record some of your PID's, and post them up. Hopefully will give someone some more insight into what is happening.

I would recommend these, while cranking.

RPM-
ICP- ( Injection Control Pressure)
IPR- ( Injection Pressure Regulator)
Batt Voltage-
MAP-

Start with those, hopefully it will provide a clue.

Sent from my E6810 using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Ok soo I ended up looking at the injector millisecond open intervals...they were zero even when the icp was calling for 3000psi...which was odd....soo I decided to swap back to the original IDM that was in the truck and boom started right up has been running good the rest of the day!!...I even got the balls to put the hydra on the new pcm and everything works tits like it should...

Overall I think the valve cover harness was the main culprit and a few bad glow plugs. And a really wierd double Male pin in one slot from the original pcm on pin 49...50 was empty but 49 had 2pins....never seen that before....soo in all it was a couple things and I think taking that pcm out to put the chip in originally exacerbated some stuff that was on the verge of shitting out anyway.
 
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