Ford Power Stroke Nation banner

1 - 20 of 20 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
85 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I picked up a complete wrecked 97 f350. It was hit pretty hard in the side but the drive train is perfect. Heck I drove it 30 miles home. I initially bought it to just drop the engine into my 94.5 f250 but on the way home I saw this super sweet 96 Eddie Bower f150 4x4 that is in mint condition.

I am wondering about things like do the frame mounts have to be moved. I was also wondering if swapping the f350 axles would be as simple as welding the spring perches onto the f150 (noting the leaf vs coil spring difference).

Also how much of the harness would I have to swap I am just thinking that the engine bay harness and computer from the f350 or is there more under the dash I would have to swap.

The only reason I am contemplating that is I really wanted a short bed. I figure if I do that I can keep driving my truck while doing the swap and then just sell mine when the swap is done. I thought about having my frame shortened and putting a short bed on my truck but by the time I do that, and then have to paint my truck it would just be easier to swap into this f150 that is in pristine condition.

I am also thinking that maybe f150's don't have to have commercial plates (would be a nice annual savings ) I could be wrong about that though.

I guess that is a pretty long winded first post... looking forward to responses.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,012 Posts
when you pull the gas motor out, you will have to remove its motor mounts. I think one unbolts, and the other you will have to torch the rivets off. The passenger side diesel mount will bolt right into place, the drivers side you will have to drill a couple holes, and also decide if you want to fab a plate so the front lower bolt can be utilized. I didnt, I dont think Dave Lott (Powerstroke Racer) did on his either. Do a search for his thread on the build he did.

As for your harness', I swapped them both. I would definitely swap out the under dash harness so all your diesel bells and whistles work. When I did mine I only ran into a few different plugs for the body wiring that needed to be sorted out in my Bronco, but didnt affect the truck running at all. The underdash wiring will also need to be used, and its pretty self explanitory. Same layout as the previous out, just goes to all the diesel parts. I left the Broncos frame harness in it, and it plugged right in and everything worked, fuel gauge, lights etc.

You will want to swap the inner fenders, as well as the radiator support too, though if it shows signs of rot I would just get a new one.

Its a lot of work, but its not hard to do.

As for the axles, yes you can mount it the way you thought. Check out fullsizebronco.com, they have a great solid axle swap forum with all the info you could ever need to know about doing the swap that way.

Good luck!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
85 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Thanks mwalsh9152. All very good information. It sounds very straight forward. I may be way off but it sounds like this could be done in a couple of weekends. The only thing that has me a little spooked about under the dash on the 96 f150 is that it has an air bag. Does the front radiator support just bolt in? I would be willing to bet the one in the 97 donor truck is in good shape. The truck was in almost perfect condition other than getting smacked in the door. and it seems the frame bent a little ... off by maybe an inch ...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,012 Posts
Id say that youre going to need just a little bit more than a few weekends, Its not a "hard" swap....but by no means is it easy, its a lot of work.

As for the airbag, my answer to that was to put the donors column in it. The radiator support bolts to two body mount bushings on the frame, and then on the fenders. Hardest part will be figuring out how to get the headlights off.

let me know if you have any other questions
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
85 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
I see that you are in California, will you be able to get this swap past CARB?
The only laws governing engine swaps is that the engine has to be from the same year or newer vehicle and maintain all of the emissions control equipment of the swapped in engine. So no big deal.

As I understand it once it is finished all I have to do is take it over to the DMV and have it visually inspected and reclassified as a diesel.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
85 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
Id say that youre going to need just a little bit more than a few weekends, Its not a "hard" swap....but by no means is it easy, its a lot of work.

As for the airbag, my answer to that was to put the donors column in it. The radiator support bolts to two body mount bushings on the frame, and then on the fenders. Hardest part will be figuring out how to get the headlights off.

let me know if you have any other questions
I like your idea on the swap the columns.

I am always overly optimistic at the start of a big project. I think that is part of my way of convincing myself that its a reasonable thing to do :) I was just thinking that if I had a solid week of working on it every day I could probably do it in that amount of time but of course I don't have a week of contiguous days and picking back up where you left off is always harder than working on something several days in a row. the 7 days straight does not take into account the front axle I figure that is a separate project in and of itself .
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,273 Posts
The only laws governing engine swaps is that the engine has to be from the same year or newer vehicle and maintain all of the emissions control equipment of the swapped in engine. So no big deal.

As I understand it once it is finished all I have to do is take it over to the DMV and have it visually inspected and reclassified as a diesel.

Just tell them you are converting it so it will run on 100% biofuel, so you can save the planet like the rest of em.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
85 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
I am having a slightly different idea now. I was thinking that maybe I should swap the Donner engine into my f250, save the harness from the parts truck, and rebuild then swap my 94.5 powerstroke into an f150 or bronco. The parts truck is a 7.3 auto. My truck is a 7.3 5 spd manual. Do I need to swap the engine harnesses from the parts truck to my truck?

Anything else I should know about? I read that if swapping a 94.5 - 95 to a 96 -97 that you should swap computers too. ... not a problem but is there anything else?

Just thinking I could rebuild the engine in my 94.5 then do the swap into an f150 or Bronco and put the f350 engine in my f250.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,012 Posts
the computer may be different auto to manual. As for the engine harness, Id just try it and see what happens. If it doesnt work, then swap it in. The complete engine harness can be r&r'd in a couple hours taking your time
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
85 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
the computer may be different auto to manual. As for the engine harness, Id just try it and see what happens. If it doesnt work, then swap it in. The complete engine harness can be r&r'd in a couple hours taking your time
Bummer, that means I either have to buy a new computer or swap the injectors etc over from my engine.... I guess I could look for a used 96+ manual trans computer.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,012 Posts
actually, do some searching around here about auto to manual swaps. Now that I think of it, I think as long as you have a stick it will work. If it were the other way you would have an issue.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
85 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
Hardest part will be figuring out how to get the headlights off.
I now know exactly what you meant by that! Man those two nuts on the back of the lower indicator housing really made for a serious PITA! I know one thing for sure. I am going to be putting in new side indicator lights before putting this back together b/c I can see that will be a bummer to have to do all that to change them. I ended up taking the battery trays out to get on those bolts.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
85 Posts
Discussion Starter #15
My progress has been a little slow. However, I am just about ready to pull the engine from the donor. I was thinking I would leave it at that point until I get the engine ready to come out of my truck.

I do have a couple of questions for those who have done this before. Do people try to take the engine, trans and transfer case out as a single unit? I already disconnected the torque converter on the donor truck so if the answer is no then it will be as easy as undoing the bell housing bolts and dropping it. It just looks like one heavy sucker and I thought it might be easier to wrestle it around outside the truck.

Second, how do the fuel lines come apart? I undid the clamp where the hard line meats the soft line but cant seem to figure out how that press fitting comes apart, tried poking around with a screw driver but no joy.

Lastly, are those two hooks/loops on the top of the engine sufficient to hold the engines weight? it kind of looks like that is their purpose in life but thought I would ask before using them.

Thanks,
Larry
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,629 Posts
for the fuel hoses, stop by your local auto parts store and they have the tool you need. you can pull eng, trans, and transfer case as one if you have a big enough hoist but it can get dicey, and it may not come out very well.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,012 Posts
I wouldnt recommend pulling them all as one unit, theres just so much weight that it will fight you. Be careful with your engine hoist too, we put mine in for a test fit the first time to locate the left motor mount, and the hoist was NOT happy about it and almost flipped over on me at one point. I had to have a fat friend stand on that side of the hoist. When we put it in for good I used the wrecker.

As for the fuel lines, like Blue said, you need to get the fuel line tools. You will also need AC line tools too while youre at it
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
45 Posts
I have a cherry 96 Eddie Bauer short box 2wd F150 I picked up as well. I have a donor 12v sitting in the shop for it. Just got to get the time to get started on it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
277 Posts
Below is the tool you'll need to release the fuel lin fitting. Slide it over the fuel line and press it into the fitting, it will release the tangs that hold it together. They also work on A/C fittings.
 

Attachments

1 - 20 of 20 Posts
Top