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Discussion Starter #1
I've done some research on this to the point I am blue in the face, but I cant figure it out. Truck does not have a WTS light, but will turn over until you burn up the starter, just never fires.

Previous owner replaced:
CPS
GPR
PCM

No change in issues

Got power to the red wire with green tracer on GPR.
Fuel bowl heater has been done away with (unplugged)
All Relays check out for PCM and IDM (put them in the horn relay spot and it still worked)
fuse #22 and #9 are good

I am at a loss. I have no clue what else to look for or to test. The guy who had it got tired of fighting it and I got it for $500!
 

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Shoot, EVTM is in the truck my wife is using, away for a few days. Gotta find that PCM power wire (IIRC it's also red/green) at the PCM connector and test for power there. If you do have 12V there, then PCM is the suspect.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Ok, I am going to look at that this afternoon. Or could be the pin going into the female plug on the PCM even. Who knows.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Guys I really need some help on this one. I'm stumped. I was looking at it tonight. I have power to the cig lighter. Fuse #22 is good and replaced. The PCM relay is good.

When I turn the key on, no WTS light and the glow plug relay does not click. I tested my GPR, it is not grounding out like it should to activate the relay.

I feel like this is going to be something small. What would cause the WTS light not to come on? Is there some sensor that could've gone bad and is not completing the circuit? Something has to be causing it to not power up, or get power in general.

Also replaced the IDM... No change
 

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Do you get the other warning lights on the dash when you first turn the key on?

Have you been anywhere that water could of gotten to the PCM connector? I'd pull it apart and look for corrosion on the plug, green and white colors on the pins. Just guessing but there is a possibility that the PCM decided to die on you.
 

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If one of the sensors that use the 5V reference signal short, it will have the same symptoms. Not saying that's your problem however, just something else to check. The sensors that use it are the EBP, CPS, ICP, TPS, BARO, and MAP. You can try disconnecting each of those, one at a time, and see if the WTS light comes on when the key is in the WTS position. The EBP is one of the more common ones that short internally. If that doesn't work, there could still be a short in the 5V circuit in the harness (Brown wire with White stripe for all those sensors, going to PCM connector pin 90). I've also attached the tests for that circuit. Cheers!
 

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Did you ever figure it out? If not try checking grounds to the pcm. Mine did the same thing a few years ago. Glow plugs are turned on by pcm and if the pcm isn't turning on the engine will still turn over but will never fire. In my case it was the ground in front of the driver side battery was loose.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I will have to run those sensors down. I was thinking that could be my problem just because I have replaced/checked everything else. I've all my oil too, so that isn't throwing it off.

I haven't figured it out yet. I'm not one for figuring out electrical gremlins, but I can unplug a sensor or two to find out if that's the problem. I am going to check my main ground as well.

My water in fuel light comes on as its cranking along with all the other normal ones.
 

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Have you checked the oil level in the high pressure oil pump?

If you have done a lot of cranking it could be low and one of your problems in getting the truck to start.
 

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No WTS light indicates an electrical or electronic issue; HP oil isn't in the picture, at least not yet. The OP needs to resolve the e/e issue and get that WTS light on, before even bothering to crank the starter again.
 

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I have seen quite a few different reasons why the WTS light will not come on along with the PCM not sending out the ground signal but the truck still will run.

I was thinking that if the OP has done some extended cranking and perhaps drained the HPOP that he just might check it. There is always a work around if the problem is just the WTS light and no ground to the GPR. But I do agree that if it can be fixed right then it should be fixed right and not use a work around.
 

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When I had my problem that was exactly this I spent weeks chasing what I thought was a gp prob or a wts light prob when in fact it was all signes that the pcm wasn't even powering up. There are pin outs on here that you can use to check all wires with a meter. Not as hard as it sounds and will most likely be the root of the prob. I had many people tell me to do this and I had it stuck in my head that it was a gp prob. Wish I had listened sooner.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
OK, pulled all the sensors one by one. No WTS light. Bout to start pinning this PCM Connector. Should I unplug the PCM and test the male end plug?
 

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Discussion Starter #15
OK.... Turned the key on while sitting in the cab. No WTS light, then 4-5 seconds later it comes on for 1 second, something clicks in the engine bay and the cab lights go dim and then nothing... Plus batteries are weak currently.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
GPR in buzzing after roughly 8 seconds of the key being in the run position.
 

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If your batteries are weak you will get what you are getting now. Put them on a charger and get them fully charged.
 

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Also, just for proof of concept, to see if you can at least power up the PCM, disconnect the GP relay. What you're describing relates to a main power problem; weak batteries as mentioned, or a really bad battery terminal connection or really bad ground connection. Powering up just the PCM (key on, no crank, no GPs) MIGHT be possible with such a connection, but the load of the GPs would be enough to pull the voltage down.
 

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Patrick, doesn't the TRS on automatic trucks also use 5V VREF? No access to my EVTM at the moment, so I'm (eeeek!) going from memory.
Not that I could find in the EVTM. The TRS does use a signal return circuit to the PCM that is common with those sensors, but doesn't get supplied with the 5V reference. Cheers!
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Ok... So i found my WTS problem. EOT sensor was bad, replaced it and it fired up. Now it has a very rough idle then it dies. What could this be from? The first time I started it it ran fine. Now it won't stay running for anything.
 
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