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Hi all, I am new to the site. I need some help. I just bought a 95 F250 Powerstroke. It has 237,000 miles on it. I bought the truck from a high school kid who had attempted some repairs himself. Not bashing him for trying wish more kids would do that. Here is some problems I am having with the truck. When I bought it the ad said it wouldn't start. After looking at the truck I learned that it recently had new glow plugs installed, engine oil changed coolant flushed and replaced and the O-rings in the oil cooler changed. He also spliced in new pig tails for the injectors. After all this work the truck would not start. I got it to fire up but it ran like crap it had oil pressure till I rived it up then the oil pressure dropped off it ran a few more seconds and died. I checked the Hpop reservoir and it was empty. Filled it back up and the truck started at about 5 degrees F not plugged in pretty impressive I think.The truck was idling rough but running. I stepped on the throttle again oil pressure instantly went to 0. I shut the truck off, checked the oil in the Hpop, it was black not fresh oil that I filled it with. So I know that it is at least pumping oil to some degree. I started the truck back up oil pressure gauge stayed on 0 the truck continued to run worse and worse for 20-30 seconds and died. I checked the oil in the Hpop bone dry. My question is, could this thing be popping the oil bypass down by the oil filter? Or could he have done something to the oil cooler to have caused this when he was replacing the o ring and gaskets? Next thing, there is antifreeze that runs out of the front of the engine, can't really tell where it is coming from. It looks like it is coming out right behind the harmonic balancer but I can't imagine there would be antifreeze that low and it only does it when it is cranking or running. It leaks a good stream when running. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks in advance.

Ken
 

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Ken,
I think the leaking antifreeze could be from the rebuild on the oil cooler. Check on the drivers side the long tube, especially at each end. If the PO didn’t use Ford parts this could be your leak, for oil pressure (internally inside the end caps on the cooler) and external front end cap for antifreeze. What I’d do is plug it in overnight. Then when warm, undo the oil drain plug just a little to see if you get antifreeze from the pan. If no antifreeze in oil pan then, check for leaks at each end of cooler externally. I’d also check the antifreeze overflow tank to see if you have any oil in there as this can be a sign of leaking oil cooler, more likely antifreeze will migrate to oil pan but you never know.

These engines can take a while to fire up when down for a while, at issue here is if the oil cooler is leaking antifreeze into the oil that’s obviously a bad thing as it’ll not only pollute bearing etc, but injectors too.

j
 

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On a 95, when the previous owner did the oil cooler, he could have lost the parts of the lube oil pressure regulator valve. The valve is located on the backside (blockside) of the oil filter/oil cooler header adapter. The earlier trucks had the oil filter bypass valve (under the oil filter in the adapter) and the aforementioned pressure regulator valve staked in place. It's easy to lose the pressure regulator parts if you're not paying attention. If they are not there, the truck will not be able to maintain enough oil pressure to keep the high pressure oil system going to fire injectors. Cheers!
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks guys. Looks like I am going into the oil cooler. It has great oil pressure when first started gauge is over midway then when it drops off it drops off fast. I would think it lost connection on the oil pressure censer it goes from over midway to nothing instantly but the Hpop res. drains out. So i am thinking the pressure regulator it sticking open. What do you think? I don't think my block heater is working I plugged it in this morning after 2hrs there was still frost on the oil cooler right where the block heater is.
 

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You should be able to hear the block heater when on, should sound like a kettle just before boiling.
 

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I never have heard my block heater when it is on.

I don't use it that much but have never heard it when I have used it.

I usually tell that it is working by the spark I get when I unplug the extension cord.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Ok update don't know if its useful info or not. Went out tonight it took some cranking but she fired up (its around 0 here) I let idle till it lost oil pressure again about 2 minutes or so. The coolant is coming from the front of the oil cooler its leaking between the cooler and block. It seems as though its running better and better it sounded pretty good just idling. I am hoping to find the oil pressure problem when I open up the cooler.
 

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Oh one more thing the block heater is DOA I couldn't find my ohms meter so I tested it a bit unconventionally I unplugged the cord from the block heater hooked my battery charger up to the plug prongs on the cord then used a test light on the other end it lit up the cord is good so the heater itself must be bad.

Thanks again Guys I really appreciate the help.
 

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The heaters themselves very seldom go bad. It is just a loop of metal, nothing to really burn out if you looked at the size of it. About the only thing that could go bad on it would be the short piece of wire from the plug to the loop.

But when you pull the oil cooler you can also pull the heating element and see for yourself.
 

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When you talk about the oil pressure are you referring to the gauge on the dash? Because that is just a simple works or doesn’t, it doesn’t actually display the oil pressure. Also there’s trucks have two oil pressure’s, the oil pressure in the high oil pressure
 

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Discussion Starter #11
We i finally got some time to look at the truck pulled it in the shop and removed the oil cooler. I was really dreading this job I have read how bad it was online. But it went really well pretty strait forward. Now I would like to say thank you to everyone how gave advice you guys know your $h!t. Just like stated above the was oil in the coolant and parts missing from the cooler housing (pressure regulator filter bypass valve all MIA) I will load some pics if I can figure it out. So now it looks like I go on a search and destroy mission for parts. Any suggestions other than junk yards?
 

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The "updated" header (F81Z-6881-BA) that has the snapring-retained bypass and regulator valves used to sell for $135 years ago, but now lists for $543.22 and sells for about $268.90 online. Junkyard or maybe ebay might be your best bet. Cheers!
 

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Discussion Starter #13
OK update on the Joker! I found an oil cooler end with the pressure regulator in at the junk yard got the cooler and a power steering reservoir (broke by the previous owner) for $80 didn't think that was to bad till I got home and removed the oil filter and found that the filter by-pass valve was missing the wafer. But any way the truck is up and running. It had a really bad miss and shake so I changed the fuel filter and it ran a little better but not much I checked the plugs under the valve cover and found that one of the prongs was bent over. I thought that was the whole problem. It dose run a lot better but still has a slight shutter if you push on the gas it goes away. (I had a 95 powerstroke about 10 years ago and I was always impressed with the power it had.) I took it out on the road and it runs great if you are on it hard climbs through the gears and picks up speed great, but as soon as you let up the shutter comes back. It seems to have a little gray smoke at idle too. I noticed there is a lot of smoke to the back of the engine when its cold and smoking bad. I am thinking it has an exhaust leak the pipe from the turbo back looks pretty new so I am thinking its the up pipes from the manifolds. Also you have to crank it for a while before is starts and it acts like it has air in the system every time I start it. Its been really cold here in it starts without being plugged in. I think I am getting closer.
 

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Hopefully you have the bypass valve functional??? If not your oil will not be getting filtered as it will be bypassing the filter. Cheers!
 

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Ok update I noticed yesterday that my glow plug solenoid was smoking a little bit I felt it and it was getting hot that usually means a bad connection So I cleaned and greased the battery terminals it fixed the glow plug problem and the engine cranks faster and it starts a lot better. I watched a few youtube videos read a few web sights and learned the best way to find a miss is to remove the valve covers, start the engine and unplug injectors one at a time. To see which ones are working and which one are not. I found that the back two injectors on the left bank was not working. Next thing was to check for power to the injectors I couldn't find my multi tester so I just used a test light. No power checked the pig tails the previous owner had spliced in and found pretty quickly it was not wired the same as the front pig tail rewired it started the truck and it runs perfect. Now just fix the filter bypass valve change the leaky water pump and I should be back in business.
 

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Well I pulled the water pump off, the water pump still looks new. The impeller was rubbing hard on the pump case it got the timing cover too but not near as bad as the pump guess that explains why it only leaked when running. I 99% sure the answer is no on this but I have to ask. Is there any way to shim these?
 

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Well I pulled the water pump off, the water pump still looks new. The impeller was rubbing hard on the pump case it got the timing cover too but not near as bad as the pump guess that explains why it only leaked when running. I 99% sure the answer is no on this but I have to ask. Is there any way to shim these?
Nope replace. What I’ve done on my trucks is replace the B52 propeller steel fan with a 6.0 litre nylon one. Bolts right to the stock 7.3 pulley. Way less weight and pulls more air too, water pumps last longer due the less weight on bearing.
j
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Thanks JCart I will be looking for a 6.0 fan for it

Another update got the water pump changed and the other things fixed, now there are a couple of other problems the first is cold starts I will put a link to a video I just took this morning my phone dont take very good videos but you will get the idea. its about 25/30 degrees F this morning but the truck seems to start the same no matter the temp.

The next problem is the overdrive light on the shiftier will start flashing and the trans will start shifting hard. If you stop and shut it off and restart the light goes out and the the trans shifts fine.
 

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I'd say that you have glow plug problems with the cold starts.

For the trans problem you need to get the transmission codes read
 

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Thinking not all your glow plugs are working, I never just replace one, they all get replaced. While you’re in there inspect the under valve cover harnesses and plug pins. Should be NO signs of melting burnt ends etc, I always use quality Dialectric grease on the Plug connectors too. Also purchase a White Rogers (Stancor) G Plug Relay, do a search can’t remember PN. This relay has never failed me once installed, stocker 1.5years I’d be replacing.

As Bugman noted DTC need reading.

j
 
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