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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
TLDR: the new bushings on my rear sway bar endlinks are being compressed at an extreme angle that seems incorrect to me...how flush/aligned with the sway bar eye should the faces of the bushings be? How can I correct that alignment? Sway bar bushing/mount positioning? End link length? Thanks in advance for any input.

Gonna work on getting some pics up - here are the bars I’m dealing with, for reference:

New photo by Eric Baumann

——

Hey folks, new to the forum and OBS in general, bought a f350 dually flat-bed with rusty floors/rockers that I am in the middle of replacing...of course once i started poking around underneath I spotted a ton of other work it needs, including new bushings pretty much everywhere.

I went after the low hanging fruit first, front and rear sway bars.

I havent tried reinstalling the front yet but I spent about 4 hours yesterday trying to figure out what the hell is going on with the rear end links...they just dont seem to be entering the eye of the sway bar at the right angle, smashing the bushings off-angle and leaving a huge gap to catch road crap and lead to further rust issues (the old end links had almost completely rotted through at the bushing spindle from being similarly misaligned).

So, I swapped the shorter links from the front onto the rear to see if that improved the angles at all, it did, but still not what I would consider “correct.” (Not that I’m an expert though...) — I tried rotating the bracket back further so the sway bar bushing sits more on the top of the axle instead of the side, pulling the bar back a bit, which again improved alignment with the shorter links, but still not great.

To further complicate things, the sway bar bushings mount to the same bracket that is used for the shock (with a u-bolt attachment to the axle. I had to use a jack underneath to compress the shock (which I discovered needs to be replaced, rusted and leaking, no resistance/rebound) in order to rotate the mount back. On the other side the shock isn’t moving at all when i try to compress with a jack — new shocks on order — so I’ve hit the pause button on this operation for now.

If you made it this far, thanks for reading...and one last follow up question:

How do I determine the correct eye-to-eye shock measurement for the rear in its uncompressed/neutral state?
The bracket on the axle is not in a fixed position so I want to make sure the shock isnt installed overly compressed to ensure it performs as designed.

Thanks in advance for the help!
 

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welcome to PSN.
i am wondering if the truck has a lift on it. when you put a lift on, you either have to remove the links, or get longer ones.
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
welcome to PSN.
i am wondering if the truck has a lift on it. when you put a lift on, you either have to remove the links, or get longer ones.
Hey Tom, thanks for response...I am honestly not sure if it has a lift...I dont THINK it does but like I said, first time OBS/truck owner (vans previously) so unsure of how to tell/have no point of reference. I bought new links that matched the length/spec of the ones that came off the truck, but the bushings that came off were WORKED, squashed at a seriously extreme angle which I can only imagine accelerated wear/stress and degradation of the bushing spindle section of the link. Trying to correct that in the new links I install.

here are some more pics of current alignment with the shorter link from the front and the bracket rotated back further around the axle. I think there is also a photo in there of the passenger side bracket which I haven’t been able to rotate due to what seems to be a frozen shock. maybe they will shed some light on the situation:

8 new photos by Eric Baumann

I have looked everywhere on the internet trying to find some another rear axle/suspension configuration like that I have here to no avail. Seems to be quite uncommon to have the sway bar and shock mounted on the same bracket?
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
Also, the variety of end links listed for 95 f350 4WD rears only adds to my confusion:


The shorter curved links further down that page are interesting...i have no idea if they would help...but i cant help but wonder...
 

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That angle is not "extreme" - it's about normal. These show a lifted 1/2-ton.

(phone app link)


(phone app link)


Yours is slightly up because the truck is unloaded. As the rear suspension compresses with cargo/tongue weight, the angle through those bushings will become flat, and then continue the other way. Your sway bar is specific to chassis cab 4WD:

202389


  1. ItemPart NumberDescription
    15A772Rear Stabilizer Bar
    2N620482-S56Nut
    35486Stabilizer Bar Bracket
    4N803771-S56U-Bolt
    55486Stabilizer Bar Bracket
    65486Stabilizer Bar Bracket
    7N803758-S56Bolt
    8N620469-S2Nut
    9N801527-S2Washer
    10N605704-S2Bolt
    1118041Washer
    12N384485-S56Nut
    135493Lower Suspension Arm Stabilizer Bar Insulator
    1418171Washer
    155K484Stabilizer Bar Link
    16N620468-S2Nut
    175L499Bracket, Link Assy
    18N605920-S2Bolt
    ATighten to 41-54 Nm
    (30-40 Lb-Ft)
    BTighten to 55-85 Nm
    (41-63 Lb-Ft)
    CTighten to 24-31 Nm
    (18-23 Lb-Ft)
 

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i agree, they look fine. a trick i use to getting the bushings in place and tightened down is put a jack under the sway bar with a block of wood on top of the jack, and pump it up a bit until the arm is in place where the bushings on the links fit without force.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
i agree, they look fine. a trick i use to getting the bushings in place and tightened down is put a jack under the sway bar with a block of wood on top of the jack, and pump it up a bit until the arm is in place where the bushings on the links fit without force.
Yea I agree the dont look as bad in that photo...but that’s with the shorter links from the front bar and with the bracket rotated up into a position that i dont think will play nice with the shocks when mounted.

When I put the correct longer links on there with the bracket in its “stock” (i think) position...the angle was pretty extreme...but it sounds like maybe thats how its supposed to be? The one I installed (and removed) just seemed crooked enough that there could be metal/metal contact in between the bushings in certain scenarios.

Also considering just removing the bar altogether...if I’m not towing anything how essential is it REALLY?

Thanks again for the 2c, much appreciated!
 

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Discussion Starter #8
That angle is not "extreme" - it's about normal. These show a lifted 1/2-ton.

(phone app link)


(phone app link)


Yours is slightly up because the truck is unloaded. As the rear suspension compresses with cargo/tongue weight, the angle through those bushings will become flat, and then continue the other way. Your sway bar is specific to chassis cab 4WD:

View attachment 202389

  1. ItemPart NumberDescription
    15A772Rear Stabilizer Bar
    2N620482-S56Nut
    35486Stabilizer Bar Bracket
    4N803771-S56U-Bolt
    55486Stabilizer Bar Bracket
    65486Stabilizer Bar Bracket
    7N803758-S56Bolt
    8N620469-S2Nut
    9N801527-S2Washer
    10N605704-S2Bolt
    1118041Washer
    12N384485-S56Nut
    135493Lower Suspension Arm Stabilizer Bar Insulator
    1418171Washer
    155K484Stabilizer Bar Link
    16N620468-S2Nut
    175L499Bracket, Link Assy
    18N605920-S2Bolt
    ATighten to 41-54 Nm
    (30-40 Lb-Ft)
    BTighten to 55-85 Nm
    (41-63 Lb-Ft)
    CTighten to 24-31 Nm
    (18-23 Lb-Ft)
Thanks for posting that diagram, very useful...may I ask where you found it? Also the torque specs, where did you find those? Apologies in advance if these are stupid questions...I‘ve been looking for a good service manual of some sort but havent had any success yet...bought a Haynes one but ended up being the gas engine version (n)
 

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Towing isn't directly related to the sway bars. They're really only for body sway of the truck - they have no appreciable effect on a trailer.

I have all the '92-07 service disks. You can download most of them from Ford Service Manuals - Google Drive , but there are a few tricks to installing & using them. If you plan to run them from a HDD, it's better to put each disk image on its own partition with its own drive letter. Read the captions in this album, and in the other album linked in the captions:

(phone app link)
 

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since all my old body trucks were lifted, i removed the sway bars.
i never noticed a difference.
 

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It takes a LOT of cargo or heavy body additions (tool boxes, etc.) to make a 3/4- or 1-ton pickup sway, even w/o sway bars.
 
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