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You've probably seen the Ujoint Offroad kits, bolt-on leaf spring brackets, mid-tank shortening kit, T-case shifter kit, steel wheel adapters for the rear (8 on 6.5 to 8 on 170mm, to match the new D60 up front) and the like. Pricey, I know, but you get what you pay for. They have a lot of kits in service, and do instals them selves (so they are familiar with fitment issues and details needed) They're the only DIY E series 4x4 conversion company where a guy can buy just a $600 leaf spring conversion set up, or have 4 pallets filled with rebuilt axles, ARB lockers and Spintron wheel bearings, correct brake lines, new springs, drilling fixture, all show up at your door ready to install (if you've got ... or just buy the parts you need/can't make yourself, and source/build the rest locally. Then upgrade as need and budget allows.

I have a UJOR kit in my 1996 E350 7.3 camper van.

I think he now offers a coil spring kit, too, but I like the simplicity of the leaf conversion, strong Dana 60 front axle (out of a 1999 F350).

After a few years, I got tired of the bump steer (from the pitman arm to steering knuckle angle, and the front shocks 'topping out' while towing my 32 foot race trailer. I wound up adding longer shocks, and building my own front shock mounts and hoops, and adding a high steer/crossover steering set up that was half my own, half UJOR. You have to machine the top of the passenger side knuckle and mount a custom made new steering arm to do it right.

Below pics steering before and after correcting for bumpsteer with high steer arm
 

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Discussion Starter #43
Thanks for the info!
I have studied the U joint builds, they are soooooooo sick!!! The 7.3 trucks are the best...
I am really leaning towards the Superduty coil spring 4x4 conversion for this van, the leaf spring stuff is great but the coil spring is better and likely easier......

Our van did a great job of hauling my bronco, wife and kids from CO to Idaho, shortly after we got here the snow started to fly so she was parked.
Earlier this week we dug her out of the snow and she had her day in the shop.
First up was to remove the rusted out factory exhaust... that old system had huge holes in the muffler caused a terrible droniing noise while driving. Props to my wife for handling the droning noise and two kids while hauling a trailer 1300 miles...
So Diamond Eye 4" kit with muffler went in without a hitch! Sounds great too! I found the exhaust tip to be waaaay too long for my liking so I trimmed off about 4" from the end...now it looks proper.
Detailed the van interior and engine bay then started driving her around.
Did not take long for some repairs to show themselves.
Flasher stopped working, manual turn signals work fine. Found stock flasher to be rusty = water intrusion.
rear brake line, the hard line that goes over the axle burst, the rust finally got through.. So replaced that yesterday, Happy to see the dealership that flipped this van had already replaced all the hard lines along the frame, why they skipped the over axle line ($5) is beyond me...fixed now. Happy to have rear disc brakes!

AC is not working, I assume it is just low, so planning to recharge that today.

Still planning our 4x4 conversion as $$$$ allows
Van now had Idaho tags and looks awesome!!
We call it the bondo wagon, the poor bondo job on the rockers is already starting to drop out and turn orange
I will keep my eyes peeled for a straight van body, someday soon I will plan a body off frame swap..........
 

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Discussion Starter #44
okay flasher is fixed, now we have turn signals
Found high pressure switch for AC next to engine compartment battery, moved battery, jumpered the switch the viola we have AC compressor clutch engagement!
So I started to check pressure which was very low, added some lubricant/dye/charge and BINGO found the leak

Drivers side frame rail in front of rear tire, where rear ac lines meet there is a steel coupling...mine is rusted and leaking

Best way to fix this spot? New lines? O ring? Splice? Braze? I guess we shall find out!
 

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they make a couple now to fix ac lines they told us bout them in the last ac class I had 2 years ago. going to one on Wednesday. can ask bout them. or u can replace the lines which might be fun to get ahold of.
okay flasher is fixed, now we have turn signals
Found high pressure switch for AC next to engine compartment battery, moved battery, jumpered the switch the viola we have AC compressor clutch engagement!
So I started to check pressure which was very low, added some lubricant/dye/charge and BINGO found the leak

Drivers side frame rail in front of rear tire, where rear ac lines meet there is a steel coupling...mine is rusted and leaking

Best way to fix this spot? New lines? O ring? Splice? Braze? I guess we shall find out!
"Y'all have a wonderful"
"My name is Bob the guy floating in the lake with no arms and no legs"
Bob W Martin 1948-2014 USAF
 

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Discussion Starter #46
What size are these lines? I see the splice kits, that will be the best approach for this leak.... hopefully other leaks don't pop up after!

Thank man I knew you could help me out here! Nice to hear from ya!
 

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Im not sure will have to measure them and see what the outside dia. this is what I use.


"Y'all have a wonderful"
"My name is Bob the guy floating in the lake with no arms and no legs"
Bob W Martin 1948-2014 USAF
 

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Glad ur back think we were talking bout u not to long ago in ur truck thread.

"Y'all have a wonderful"
"My name is Bob the guy floating in the lake with no arms and no legs"
Bob W Martin 1948-2014 USAF
 

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Discussion Starter #51
Okay I have splice kit for van AC line repair and I also now have AC gauges and a vacuum pump so we can start doing AC systems properly

The girls were driving the van yesterday and it brought up some questions.

If you guys recall earlier in this thread we had the front pump on the van trans fail just before we moved from CO
Everything was working fine the van was just pouring out ATF from the front pump seal. So we pulled the trans and rebuilt the front pump and replaced the converter. The front pump was rebuilt by my friend who is an expert in Ford auto trans and we replaced the bolts and sealing washers as well. We used a new triple disc converter (not billet) and all went well. The van has been working flawlessly since.
However there is a noise, when coasting or in park
Its hard to explain it kind of sounds like a spinning glass marbles in a jar sort of noise. I can get some video today.
At first I figured this is just what a triple disc converter sounds like now it appears to be getting louder?
I did inspect the flywheel and hub for cracks while trans was out I did not see anything with my eyes. This does not mean its not there, but we did have a good look at it WITHOUT pulling it from the engine.

Noise goes away when load is applied, not instantly but it does go away 100% once the van is moving.
I do have the inspection cover off, will make sure the starter pinion is kicking back
It definitley sounds like a converter, but is it a normal noise for a triple disc? My guess and knowing my luck is I think there is a problem.
New part is under warranty, what am I looking for?

One juicy piece of info, the converter we replaced was not OEM it had already been rebuilt/replaced once..... flywheel?





Flywheel is probably cracked under that hub spacer and Im a jackass for not checking while the trans was out, right? LOL
 

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i had a problem with noise in my e4od and it was the coast clutch contacting the pump cause it did not seat properly. hope that's not it. but when it happened found pieces of the thrust washer that goes between the pump and coast clutch in the pan.

"Y'all have a wonderful"
"My name is Bob the guy floating in the lake with no arms and no legs"
Bob W Martin 1948-2014 USAF
 

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Discussion Starter #53
Here's some video of the noise
https://youtu.be/QAUf31s3MmQ

the more I think about it the more I should have removed the checked the flywheel for cracks.

Van has low miles, like 57K
Has sat ALOT of its life
When we started daily using it it did not take long for the front pump seal to let go
Pulled trans, found reman converter with some grooves on hub
Seal was dry /brittle
rebuilt front pump and installed new converter = noise

What do you guys think? Should I pull the trans again?
 

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Discussion Starter #54
anyone? any thoughts.experience on the converter noise?
 

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anyone? any thoughts.experience on the converter noise?
Its hard to hear in the video. I would drop the pan and see whats in it first. I thought mine was converter noise or I cracked a flywheel when I put the trans in but it turned out the coast clutch just off a little bit and rubbing the pump body. It would come and go also. when I pulled the pan found pieces of the thrust washer that went in between in the pan. Also found metal debris in the pan.
 

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When the flex plate cracks it is usually so close to or under that washer that it can’t bw seen without pulling it. That’s what I found in my research when I had the torque converter issues on the white truck. It ended up being my TQ even though it was brand new it was junk. I replaced the flex plate at the same time anyway just to cover the bases. I didn’t want to drop the trans again for a $70 part
 

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I didn't hear anything, but flex plate noises usually occur during idle or light load. Sort of a rattle type noise.

Pumps are more of a whine noise and they get worse under load, not better. Converters also are rpm and load sensitive and should go away under lock up.
 
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