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Bronco Guru
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Discussion Starter #1
I picked up a 1997 F350 with a 7.3 powerstroke in it that I'm swapping into a 1994 Bronco. So far I ordered a sky offroad bronco SAS kit to allow me to put the D60 in the front end of my bronco and I'm pairing those with a a set of U code superduty springs that I ordered from trucksprings.com for a pretty reasonable price. For the begnning of the build I'm keeping to a relatively budget build and my goal is to get the powertrain and engine swapped over. As time goes on I'd like to do more work and hopefully in the future have a badass powerstroke bronco with 350-400 HP. But one can only dream as a college kid.

So far I've had one whole weekend of work which was me and some friends stripping down the F350 and getting all the components off the donor and to get ready to get swapped into the bronco. I am cross posting this to Full Size Bronco forums (FSB) to get input from the bronco community and here also to get input from the diesel community to make this build the best it can be and give the most enjoyment to the everyone that wants to read about it.
 

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Bronco Guru
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Discussion Starter #2
So here's the progress that was made this weekend. I was able to get the whole truck apart and all the wiring, engine and drive train removed from the truck.

Some preliminary photos of the truck






Started by removing the disconnecting all harnesses and hose and removed the front clip and fenders. The front clip was rusted to all hell but luckily the part off it I need is still solid. The fenders were pretty much destroyed and I had to some bolts off and drained all the fluids.





Front clip fully femoved





Got the transfer case off with some persuasion and breaker bars. For my build I'm planning on using the the BKOs automatic case and then the D60s manual hubs.



Cut the front cab bolts so I could remove the transmission and engine with the pedestal still on the motor.



Engine fully removed

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After this I completely gutted the cab the cab and took the whole interior harness off. This took much longer than anticipated Ford did an awful design on how to remove the dash and vent system imo

The following morning I removed the front saddle bag and took the sending unit out and rolled the truck outside and and cut off the axles. I used a torch and cut the u bolts off, unbolted the track bar. Sadly I had to cut the sway bar links off because it just wasn't possible to keep them. I'll replace all the steering components this summer once I get some disposable income from work.

This is where this weekend ended I'm happy with the progress made my goal was to get everything that was done and I did that I'm excited to get working on the bronco next weekend. Thanks for reading!
 

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Sweet project. That baby is gonna be endo style front heavy so plan a 500lb steel rear bumper lol (or double 44" mudders would do nicely instead)

Sent from my moto g(6) play using Tapatalk
 

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PSN intsigator
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6,116 Posts
I've been wanting to do this for several years now.

Looking forward to your updates
 

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Bronco Guru
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23 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
Update: I started stripping the bronco last weekend down to the frame but kept the axles on for convenience to move it around. I started cutting rivets off the F350 donor x member but didn't have time to remove it. Now after starting that, I may just do what mush99 did and cut of a small section of the donor cross member and weld it to the bronco cross member. All my front suspension and rear suspension parts except for rear u bolts are in and I will hopefully start the drivetrain swap this weekend.
 

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Bronco Guru
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Discussion Starter #7
I had a very productive week, being in college I was very fortunate to be able to spend my spring break wrenching and making great progress on the build.

I started off with stripping down the bronco down to the frame.




From there we started mocking up the frame for the D60 front end. I used sky offroad's f150/bronco SAS kit. Overall its a well made kit, but I'm kind of disappointed by the rear shackle mounts they not 100% perfectly inline with the springs but they're very close and I'm not too worried by it. For springs I used 99-04 U code Super Duty springs. Once all the measurements all lined up I welded up the front cross member and bolted in the rear shackle mounts.








After getting the front end sorted out we moved to the rear end and got the Sterling 10.25 mounted in. This was a very easy bolt on project with using U codes in the front I bought a set of 2800lb F250/F350 springs for the rear, they may be a bit stiff but it leveled the truck perfectly and will making towing much more nice. The stock bronco rear drive shaft fits almost perfect but the pinion angle isn't quite correct, but I haven't shimmed the perches yet so no worries there.




The bronco sits probably 4 to 5 inches higher than it was with having all that fender gap I went and bought a set of 75% 37" military goodyear wrangler MTs for $400 with rims. Sadly the whopping 7 inches of back spacing humvee the rims had horrible fitment issues and wouldn't even bolt on the D60. Luckily got a set of what looks like AR Outlaw style rims for 100 bucks.



Once the axles were mounted I started on the motor mounts I did what Mushs88 did and weld on the f350 motor mounts in the oil filter hole of the bronco x member.




From this point here's what the bronco looked like



After probably 2 hours of monkeying around I did what many say is not possible or a good idea and that's install the 7.3 with the transmission still attached and it fit liked a glove.


Once it was in I mounted a set of bellowed pipes I got from full force diesel which need a mild amount of massaging to fit but they're in there and no rubbing will happen either. I also mount my diamond eye 3" down pipe i had to use a crowbar and bend the exhaust shield ever so slightly to fit with no rubbing.

Here's where my week ended I got the front clip installed




I have to run new front break lines in the front end and once that happens I can put the tubs and fenders on and start working wiring and hooking up all the coolers. I have to sort out my fuel delivery lines and return lines still. I think I'm going to uses the stock F350 lines from the block to the tank selector valve and then a short length of hose and then the bronco fuel lines post fuel filter to the tank. I have to also modify the BKO sending unit, for that I'm planning on copying what Mush's did and braze on the strainer and return on the BKO unit.
 

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why bother with the tank selector valve? are you going to try to put two tanks in it?
 

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Where the bronco has the return reservoir (looks like a selector switch) just splice the returns together. And add the fuel pump (if going efuel) there. If your not doing efuel. Just splice them together there. Then use the f250 lines from the motor to the frame and tie it in there.
 

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Bronco Guru
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Discussion Starter #10
why bother with the tank selector valve? are you going to try to put two tanks in it?
Sorry, I poorly worded that section. What I meant by that is I'm using just the section between the block and the selector valve, and cutting it before the valve where it transitions from SS line to hose. I'm using the broncos tank, no saddlebags
 

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Bronco Guru
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23 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
Where the bronco has the return reservoir (looks like a selector switch) just splice the returns together. And add the fuel pump (if going efuel) there. If your not doing efuel. Just splice them together there. Then use the f250 lines from the motor to the frame and tie it in there.
Not planning on doing e fuel this moment in time, but I did do exactly what you described so in the future I can add e fuel with minimal work!
 
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