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I'm not sure how the PCM would be causing the pump failure. It does not control anything to do with the fuel pump (at least on the e-fuel setups I've seen). If it is the cause in your case, how is the PCM controlling the pump? Cheers!
 
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I got to go with Patrick on this one.

The PCM has nothing to do with how long a E fuel pump will run. You should have a pressure regulator on it where once it hits a certain pressure it will shut off.
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
Yes I have a pressure regulatror I will post back when the PCM is fully tested and returned.
 

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Fancy that ,, just got home from a fuel pump failure .. The fuel heater in the diesel filter bowel shorted out ... The fuel gauge would not shoe presser .. Luckey I had a fuel presser gauge to notice the fuel pump out of service ..In the process of discovery noticed no voltage at fuel pump ..Checking things out a 30 amp fuse under steering wheel panel was blown ..Replaced it and instantly it blew ? This fuse is located at right bottom of fuse panel ..The heating element shorted out ,, leaving me without A WAIT TO START signal at startup nothing 5o 6o bucks can't replace Two forex screws in bottom of filter housing is the tool needed.. Or just remove element till you have one. Ran fine with out one . The Gov Holmes
 

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It's fine to run without the heater element. Many of us are doing just that. You can unplug the wire from either inside or outside the bowl. If you want to completely remove the element and plate, use a 7/8" crows-foot wrench to remove the standpipe. Note that the standpipe is LEFTHAND threaded. Cheers!
 

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Yes Pat The situation I was in , vert bad.. 350 miles from home in wallowa mt. A friend looked on a mobile website connecting the dots .. Tried disconnect from outside bowel , couldn't remove plug as there is to many objects " hose and wires plus whatever else is under hood, nearly see it .. Did not want to make any mistakes in the delete process ..Didnot dare try to slip the plug off the inside of bowel without having seen it being so easy , a wire which has light bend at end to pry off the plug might have worked . Considerd cutting outside wire . I knew the inside procedure was a go Thanks for helping any future problems for four viewers .......The Gov Holmes "did i say leaving deleted"
 

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When my heater went out I figured that I would just pop the wire off the inside of the bowl. This took a total of about 2 minutes.

Put a new fuse in and went to start the truck and the fuse blew again, so I went through the procedure again and this time I just took a screwdriver and popped it off of the outside of the housing. Replaced the fuse and headed home. It was a bad pass through connector on the filter housing.

This was while I was sitting in the middle of nowhere on the side of the road.

I can't remember even just how long ago this was but it was quite a while and I live where the temperatures drop into the minus side for quite a while in the winter.
 

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Are we having fun ? My fuel pressure regulator is in the immediate area and the hoses that are attached looking closely I can see it at bottom reached the electric connection with med length screwdriver ,, no luck in disconnect , possibly could have cut wires long nippers ..Playing it safe i went inside to disconnect in filter, removed at this time all appears well .. Something to consider is removal or dissconegt at next filter change unless it is a neccsity ? Sooner or later your next .. Like finding old hangernade , just pitch it under the seat , You will have something to talk about in the tavern .. The Gov Holmes
 

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Outside connector is just a funky-looking right angle spade connector that comes off by pulling straight out towards the driver's side (perpendicular) from the bowl. It can be a real bear to get off sometimes! When I tried one time on my 94, I ended up damaging the pass through part which cost me something like $46 to replace! Since then I just pull the small spade connector at the pass through. I didn't have any issues like Bugman's short. Cheers!
 
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