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Discussion Starter #1
Good morning everyone I have a 01 7.3 that I need some help with. I live in Southern California and it's been pretty cold out here lows are in the mid 30's if I plug the block heater in the truck starts great. If I don't plug it in the it barely turns over like the batteries are dead and I have to end up jumping it just to even get the motor to crank over fast enough. The truck has Interstate batteries from Costco 2yrs ago. Is there not enough cold cranking amps from the batteries? Thanks everyone
 

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GBO,

First :whs:. Second have the starter checked. If you can do a load test on the truck great. Otherwise pull it and have it checked on test stand.

Cj
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I will definitely get the batteries tested, whenever I turn the ignition on for the WTS light I get a buzzing sound but when I have it hooked up to jumper cables I don't get the buzzing sound so that was my thought the batteries were going bad. Are Costco batteries junk? Just sucks that their 2yrs old and already starting to loose cells. Should I have the starter tested at a Autozone or O'Reilly's I don't think I have a rebuild place where I'm at. It's hard to find those guys anymore
 

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With the buzzing or clicking it sounds more like a battery problem.

Most places can not do a real load test on a starter. They just throw it onto a bench and sees if it spins.

Batteries are a crap shoot no matter who the manufacture is. But once you have your starting problem figured out I would check the charging system and make sure that the batteries are getting a full charge.
 

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costco batteries in my 2000 are 6 years old but that truck does not plow or get beat up.. the ones in my 02 plow truck i only get 2 years out of. the constant load of snow plow and emergency lights kills them.
 

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Bugman,

The couple of times I have taken my starter back for replacement the "bench testers" at Oreilly Auto were able to spit out a number for the unloaded starter current. The second time I warrantied my starter they didn't want to exchange cause the starter spun up fine on the stand.. I told them to look at the amp readings on my starter then had them pull a remanufactured out of stock and test it too.. Needless to say they didn't squabble about my return after that. If memory serves I think the remanufactured one was pulling 25 to 45 amps unloaded and my half dead one was pulling 300+ amps unloaded.

CJ
 

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Most of those "auto parts" starter testers only spin up the starter -- good if there is bad connection or dragging armature in the starter
what is best is a load test -- usually only available at a rebuilder

Batteries that have been left with low charge, are damaged -- this usually shows up as shorter life and the inability to crank the engine very long

Deka AGM batteries are the best in my opinion, from experience of several years in the shop
I have Walmart batteries in my truck(they came with it) and looks like they will only lase a year or two more
tops are dry and cables do not corrode -- so that is a plus

Had to replace the batteries in my truck last year(under warranty) one tested bad, with the fancy tester and the other passed
I used my old 300 amp tester and both failed -- the new fancy testers do not load the battery much
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I checked for shorts and draws and I'm good there. I'm going to take the batteries back to Costco and exchange them. But why would the motor spin so much faster when the truck is plugged in versus not? Is it because the oil viscosity is greater ?
 

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Warmer engine doesn't require the glow plugs as much so there is less draw down on the batteries before you start. Oil is less viscous as well.
 
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