[Jess 1996 F-350 7.3L CCLB]

I live in FL so not to concerned about any cold weather prohibiting it from starting but I haven’t been able to start my 7.3 for over a month now and I’ve replaced both batteries and all battery cables, still don’t wanna start. It holds 12.51v on both batteries and cranks up but won’t fire. It did almost fire once with the new batteries but haven’t been able to get that much luck since lol. I’m thinking next thing I do it both the starter and starter solenoid. Thoughts?

 

[Hendy]

What is the year and model of your truck ( this will help us with differences between years)
Do you have a code reader that can read the truck ( codes will make this much easier for us and you) any basic scanner will not be able to scan trucks like ours, if you do not have a good scanner a good alternative is Forscan. ( I'm bad at explaining it so I'm gonna steal someone else's example 😂 )


There are many things that can cause this issue, these are just a few of the questions that may help us narrow it down without codes ( for now)
Does it crank fast or slow?
Does it have good fuel pressure?
Is the fuel filter dark in color?
Is there Oil in the ICP?

 

[Hendy]

Found it, ( stole it from Jax 😂 )

Welcome to PSN

1. Get FORScan scanning software for Fords (free) and an OBDII reader. Greatest troubleshooting tool ever!

2. DO NOT throw parts at it . . . if you must, then make them Motorcraft parts. Ford diesels are quite particular about their sensors.

3. Come back with the codes. Lots and lots of smart people here!

 

[Jess 1996 F-350 7.3L CCLB]

Mine is a 96 f350 7.3. I don’t own a scanner but know many people with scanners so I’ll check with them if it’ll work with mine.
cranks fast as hell
Has fuel pressure
Not sure on the fuel filter, haven’t checked it yet.
Also haven’t checked the icp either
Thank you

 

[Hendy]

If it cranks fast I would not mess with the starter because a fast crank is good for starting, If there is oil in the ICP connector that means that it's probably bad ( try to start the truck with the sensor unplugged, if it starts it means your ICP is bad. but that doesn't mean there aren't other issues)

Another Question, When you crank it does your RPM gauge move ( that would point to a bad CPS which would cause a no start)

Fords wire insulation is so good the wire can break while the outside of it looks fine, ( this is kind of hard to track down with no codes but it sounds like you are getting that taken care of)

If you scan it and a bunch of codes come up, document them ( either by taking photos or write them down) then clear them and crank for a bit, no more than 30 seconds at a time with a 2 minute cool down between to protect the starter, then rescan and see what codes come back.

 

[Jess 1996 F-350 7.3L CCLB]

Ok I’ll try that thanks!
not concerned with the cps as that was the first thing I replaced since it was showing signs of having problems. So far I’ve replaced the cps, battery cables, batteries (in that order)
ill try that with the scan tool as well thank you!

 

[cainbr]

Ok I’ll try that thanks!
not concerned with the cps as that was the first thing I replaced since it was showing signs of having problems. So far I’ve replaced the cps, battery cables, batteries (in that order)
ill try that with the scan tool as well thank you!

Did you use a Motorcraft CPS? These motors are pretty picky about using Motorcraft sensors. It is not uncommon for brand new aftermarket sensors to have trouble functioning properly when installed.

 

[Hendy]

Just remember, even though a part is new doesn't mean its working ( I bought a brand new IPR that ended up being faulty from the box)

 

[Jess 1996 F-350 7.3L CCLB]

i did not, used a duralast one with a warranty, I do have a spare motorcraft one on hand I bought after though

 

[Hendy]

i did not, used a duralast one with a warranty, I do have a spare motorcraft one on hand I bought after though

I wouldn't trust duralast with anything on my truck, everything I have bought from them has either underperformed or just didn't work, I understand that we all try to save money but some times you just got to bite the bullet and buy the more expensive part, I bought a duralast vehicle speed sensor and it wouldn't register over 40 miles an hour. I used to try to buy cheaper parts but they never lasted so I decided it was worth the extra money

 

[Hendy]

But it is not my place to tell you how to spend your money so take my advice if you want to

 

[Jess 1996 F-350 7.3L CCLB]

i fully get that, I plan on completely rebuilding the truck down to every little screw in it with the best parts. Clearly this was my mistake in not knowing duralast quality, I have a motorcraft one on hand so I’ll install that tomorrow. One thing I hate is being cheap, I’ll buy the right parts and not think twice about price if it’s good stuff😂 that’s for the info I’ll pull the duralast one out!

 

[Hendy]

They got me with those great ads, I thought this was a great cheap alternative but I was wrong 😂 .

Once you start taking the truck apart you'll start to see that just about every bolt going into the body is a self tapper because Ford didn't want to waste time predrilling lol

 

[Jess 1996 F-350 7.3L CCLB]

😂😂 I have lol. I’ve got the bed off and preparing for an 05 axle swap😂

 

[Hendy]

As long as your Rpm gauge is working the cps is doing its job, it probably wont last as long as it should though. Let's see what others think before you pull it out, ( always best to get a second opinion)

 

[Hendy]

😂😂 I have lol. I’ve got the bed off and preparing for an 05 axle swap😂

That'll be so nice once it's done, are you doing for ride quality, performance, or looks?

 

[Jess 1996 F-350 7.3L CCLB]

ride quality and performance. I’m not big on these guys making show trucks. My trucks are what trucks should be, badass and get **** done. Once I’m done I plan on towing occasionally with it and still getting it in a little mud😂 can’t stand these damn pavement princesses out here🤣

 

[Hendy]

Here's something that will be helpful so we will always know what year, make, and model of truck you have. This way you don't have to repeat yourself if others ask for the details. ( stole this from another user 😂)

You should put ALL the truck's details & history (as much as you know) into your signature so it shows with each post, as this page explains:


1983 Ford Bronco Diagrams picture | SuperMotors.net


Phone apps don't always show signatures, so you may need to switch to a real browser in desktop mode on your phone, or just use a desktop/laptop computer. Put your location (nearest city) in your profile & upload an avatar of the truck. The more pics you post (NOT in your sig) of the truck, engine, wiring, labels, & undercarriage, the more likely we can help you. Not all its details are relevant to these issues, but you don't necessarily know which ones are relevant, so just put everything in now.

 

[Hendy]

ride quality and performance. I’m not big on these guys making show trucks. My trucks are what trucks should be, badass and get **** done. Once I’m done I plan on towing occasionally with it and still getting it in a little mud😂 can’t stand these damn pavement princesses out here🤣

It's crazy how trucks have changed over the years, first they were just the work horse that never thought of getting all these fancy things and now you see all these trucks that look like they've never seen a day of work. I would love to make my truck a pavement princess though😅 make it look like it just rolled out of the show room. then I'll just get a different one to do work😂

 

[Hendy]

It's already worked so hard I feel like it deserves a nice life now. The thing was a company truck for 24 years! What that company did I have no idea I have only been able to speculate so I like to think it was an oil field rig because that sounds cool to me lol

I'm getting tired so I will continue this tomorrow