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Discussion Starter #1
1997 f250 7.3 217,xxx miles. I have has it it a little of a year now. Runs great. It always smoked white/blue when sitting over night even if it was 60 degrees. Clears out once driving. Smokes more when cold. But always clears out. Today it was 10 degrees. It started but took a few cranks and when it started it smoked real good and idled rough for a few minutes. It ran fine once I hit the road. Checked glow plug relay and it works. Not sure if it is glow plugs or something else
 

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If it started at 10* then you glow plugs are working. The reason it probably smoked when it started after you gave it a few tries is because every time you cranked it your injector sprays fuel, then when it doesn't start right up that unburnt fuel goes in the exhaust, when it finally starts the fuel in the exhaust has to burn, so every time you crank a diesel and it's not starting your filing the exhaust with raw fuel.
New injectors atomize the fuel better, as they wear they loose some of that atomization which can make it harder to start cold.
When it was -14 here the truck with the fresh injectors fired right up, my truck with the 125k mile injectors was a little rough. Neither one was plugged in and they both had the same fuel.
 

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What do you think is causing it to idle so rough. I should have added It almost doesn't seem like it is running on all eight at first start up
 

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Fixing Broken Stuff
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Most common is a bad injector, but it could be the wiring to the injector. So check the connectors in the valve cover gaskets. Scan it and that should point you to the problem cylinder.
 

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It was not plugged in. I let the glow plugs go through WTS then hit them again and after that WTS went out I waited 5 seconds to start it
 

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What do you mean by "hit them again"? If you turned the key of and back on, that's a complete waste of time, and extra wear and tear on the glow plug relay. The glow plugs stay on long after the WTS light goes out. If you didn't plug it in, at +10F, you should give it at least an extra ten-count, preferably 20, after the WTS light goes off, before turning the key to START. You'll still get smoke.

The RIGHT way, when possible, to start the engine below 20F is to have the block heater plugged in for three hours beforehand. Use a timer if so inclined; it can pay for itself in electricity cost saved within about a week. If block heater power is not available, NOTHING will help it start except extra glow plug time. In either case, the batteries, GP relay, wiring/UVCHs, and glow plugs should all be in good shape.
 
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