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Discussion Starter #1
I just got an egr delete kit and before I go ahead and install I had questions about a thread I saw somewhere about a tube or sensor holding water and freezing in cold weather. Once frozen it caused the turbos to over boost. Sounded like this occurs only after the delete is installed. If this is true is there any preventative measures I can take while I am doing the install?
 

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Diesel390
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Yes, and it's extremely annoying. No power and tons of white smoke. Only on the highway at -15c (5 F) or colder mine would freeze and the truck would over boost like crazy. I once hit 65PSI climbing a decent hill empty when I wasn't paying attention. Yikes! But in town low speed driving the engine bay seemed to stay just warm enough even at -30c (-22 F) not to freeze. I was going to just get some extra heater hose, wrap the tube up and splice it into one of the coolant lines on that side. But I thought I'd try ditching the tube first. The sensor is a 3/8"? JIC male fitting and the up pipe is a 3/8"? JIC male. I just used a fem-fem JIC connector to connect the sensor directly to the upipe. The up pipe doesn't get hot anymore with the coolers gone since exhaust can't cycle that direction anymore. So the sensor is fine.
The real problem is that tube which has an ID just big enough for a drop of water so once one drop of moisture accumulates in the tube and freezes its plugged. The connector ID is large enough that a drop of water isn't going to plug it even if it does get cold, but being closer to the manifold will keep it plenty warm.
No issues even at -30c (-22 F) on the highway now. Cheap and simple.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Yes, and it's extremely annoying. No power and tons of white smoke. Only on the highway at -15c (5 F) or colder mine would freeze and the truck would over boost like crazy. I once hit 65PSI climbing a decent hill empty when I wasn't paying attention. Yikes! But in town low speed driving the engine bay seemed to stay just warm enough even at -30c (-22 F) not to freeze. I was going to just get some extra heater hose, wrap the tube up and splice it into one of the coolant lines on that side. But I thought I'd try ditching the tube first. The sensor is a 3/8"? JIC male fitting and the up pipe is a 3/8"? JIC male. I just used a fem-fem JIC connector to connect the sensor directly to the upipe. The up pipe doesn't get hot anymore with the coolers gone since exhaust can't cycle that direction anymore. So the sensor is fine.
The real problem is that tube which has an ID just big enough for a drop of water so once one drop of moisture accumulates in the tube and freezes its plugged. The connector ID is large enough that a drop of water isn't going to plug it even if it does get cold, but being closer to the manifold will keep it plenty warm.
No issues even at -30c (-22 F) on the highway now. Cheap and simple.
Not really familiar with the setup, but this sounds pretty straightforward. Once I get in there I will see what your sayin- Thanks
 

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Diesel390
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Ahh I see. Well there is a small stainless steel tube about 10 inches long that connects to the EGR exhaust plumbing (comes over to the driver low side of the engine bay) which is fed right off the up pipe (between the heads and turbos). The tube is used to keep the exhaust pressure sensor away from the heat of the exhaust. With the egr coolers removed, there is nothing to keep that tube warm by cycling exhaust in that direction or the hot coolant circulating in the coolers to heat that side of the engine bay. That pressure sensor signal is the primary data used by the computer to adjust the variable vane turbo. When it can't read enough pressure, the computer keeps closing the vanes to get the drive/boost pressure up. You end up with super high boost and back pressure from over speeding turbos.
So anyways my solution was to remove the tube and connect the sensor as closely as possible to the egr pipe. Been prefect for quite some time now, no issues.
 

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wow you just made my annoying winter!! thank you for this! I'll post this in my thread I started a while back in tech section! ����
 

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I removed the tube and pipe entirely, and relocated my sensor to the rear of the engine where the EGR catalyst used to connect. I had to do that because my pipe was cracked, but I haven't had any problems with it since I moved it.

After the EGR is removed, condensation/water will pool in the bottom of the EGR pipe, and it's nasty, sooty, black water. With the block off plate at the end of the pipe the water has nowhere to go, so it builds up and eventually freezes in the sensor tube. You can either relocate the sensor, or drain it either by loosening the block off plate or installing a valve as some people have done. Wrapping the tube with various things may keep it from freezing, but it won't keep water from sitting in the pipe. Whether or not the water in the pipe is an issue (other than freezing the tube) I don't know, but it's not something I'd want.

If you're not planning on relocating your sensor, I'd recommend that you periodically drain the water from the block off plate.
 

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Diesel390
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Its just my opinion, but I don't feel the moisture accumulation is hurting anything and therefore doesn't need to be drained. How many of us have gone years without ever opening the block off plate after being deleted without issue. I'm one of them. And if the water is deep enough which some have apparently guessed the amount of water was enough to block off that end of the pipe to the sensor, then it must not be freezing that close to the block and manifolds while at temp. Like I said I have yet to have an issue, in fact I just drove 600km at -25c today at 120km/h without issue. (2 years egr deleted and having never removed the block off plate)
Deleting the catalyst pipe completely and moving the bp sensor is the other option too if you have the time. Every unneeded pound removed from the truck adds up.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Ahh I see. Well there is a small stainless steel tube about 10 inches long that connects to the EGR exhaust plumbing (comes over to the driver low side of the engine bay) which is fed right off the up pipe (between the heads and turbos). The tube is used to keep the exhaust pressure sensor away from the heat of the exhaust. With the egr coolers removed, there is nothing to keep that tube warm by cycling exhaust in that direction or the hot coolant circulating in the coolers to heat that side of the engine bay. That pressure sensor signal is the primary data used by the computer to adjust the variable vane turbo. When it can't read enough pressure, the computer keeps closing the vanes to get the drive/boost pressure up. You end up with super high boost and back pressure from over speeding turbos.
So anyways my solution was to remove the tube and connect the sensor as closely as possible to the egr pipe. Been prefect for quite some time now, no issues.
Yes, I recently came across photos of truck with the cab off and did notice that tube. Hopefully I will get around to this project sooner than later, kinda waiting for the weather to warm up just a bit. I will post back with results. -Thanks
 

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Powerstroke Fanatic
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Gotta look into this, been -30C here in Canada for a week now and staying this way for another week. Doing same thing, tube freezes, and get crazy boost numbers, but finally thaws out if I let her idle for 30-60 min.
Just need a 3/8" female to female JIC fitting then? Wiring is long enough to do away with the tube?
Haven't looked under hood yet, to bloody cold.
 

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Diesel390
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225 Posts
Gotta look into this, been -30C here in Canada for a week now and staying this way for another week. Doing same thing, tube freezes, and get crazy boost numbers, but finally thaws out if I let her idle for 30-60 min.
Just need a 3/8" female to female JIC fitting then? Wiring is long enough to do away with the tube?
Haven't looked under hood yet, to bloody cold.
Yeah I would get her fixed soon. Crazy boost numbers comes with RIDICULOUS back pressure numbers you can't see. I believe it was 3/8". But yes fem/fem and the wiring is long enough.
 

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Just need a 3/8" female to female JIC fitting then? Wiring is long enough to do away with the tube?
They're actually 5/16" JIC flare fittings, so they're a little harder to find. At least mine was. The place I got my flare fittings from doesn't appear to sell them anymore, sadly.

The wiring might be long enough, and it probably is. It's an easy matter to extend it if you have to though, assuming you can solder. I moved my sensor to the back of the engine, so I had to extend mine.
 

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Diesel390
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They're actually 5/16" JIC flare fittings, so they're a little harder to find. At least mine was. The place I got my flare fittings from doesn't appear to sell them anymore, sadly.

The wiring might be long enough, and it probably is. It's an easy matter to extend it if you have to though, assuming you can solder. I moved my sensor to the back of the engine, so I had to extend mine.
Good call on the sizing, i was too lazy to go measure it. I was waiting for someone to correct me. Any fittings shop or place that sells hydraulic fittings will have them.
 

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Thanks for the info. Two more days then it's sposed to warm up here and might be able to look at it then.
 

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Thanks for the info. Two more days then it's sposed to warm up here and might be able to look at it then.
Do you use a winter front? I usually put mine on once the temp gets to -5 Celsius and keep it on until the snow is gone or at least pretty darn close to gone. Haven't had any issues yet and it's been like that for a couple years now.
 

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Powerstroke Fanatic
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Do you use a winter front? I usually put mine on once the temp gets to -5 Celsius and keep it on until the snow is gone or at least pretty darn close to gone. Haven't had any issues yet and it's been like that for a couple years now.
Ya I put mine on usually mid October and it's fine down to -20. But anything below that and after about 45 min of highway driving it throws the code and boost gets crazy.
 
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