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"resident smarty pants"
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100 rpm is the minimum for the control side of the requirements, but "usually around 150" is barely enough to start (if it is even enough), that is why I asked about rpms early on, and then again mentioned slow cranks after you posted the 150-170 rpm response (post #3). That 150 rpm target isn't for getting sync, or for getting sufficient pressure in the low pressure oil system. Proper pressure in the high pressure oil system SHOULD develop at a "somewhat" lower rpm. Fueling will occur when the FICM is working properly and when you have over 500 psi for ICP, and you clearly have all the required numbers for fueling - and proved it again with the starting fluid (and of course the white smoke exhaust). That just leaves oxygen (sufficient for the fueling) and compression heat as to why we need 150+ rpm.

In the opening posts you stated that you had well charged batteries, and later mentioned that they tested good (hopefully a load tester was used and not just a volt meter). If the batteries were well charged in the video, then something is dragging down the cranking speed. What you posted is not sufficient IMO. Usually, with good batteries you will have higher than normal cranking rpms when there is low compression ..................... That is why I am not totally convinced yet that it is low compression. Additionally starting fluid lowers the temperature (from compression) required for combustion, and that isn't even working here.

Cranking with the belt off could possibly increase the cranking rpms (might have a dragging accessory like the A/C compressor, or bad pulley). If having good/charged batteries, along with cranking with the belt off, doesn't get rpm's up, then it may need a new starter. The 6.4L starter fits and adds cranking speed.

Using the block heater certainly might help some. Complicated problems usually have several underlying things going on, so try everything that offers even a little help.

Edit - listen to the cranking in this video (huge difference):
 

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If batteries are the only problem (and they may be), then he has two bad sets ...... the ones that were in the truck and the "hot set" that he also tried (post #20).

At about the 9:00 minute mark DTR shows a locked up A/C compressor and how it impacts cranking (sounds like a bad battery).

 

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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
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I use this NoCo to slow charge the batteries. This blue point load tester is pretty Accurate and they both charge fully and load test above 100% which is good. Brand new batteries usually test around 120% on this load tester. I also have this 12/24 jump box I have used to try and get it to spin faster. (The AGM batteries in it are only a few months old) and it was fully charged as well. I have swapped batteries with a brand new hot spare set. That are also good. All of this reassures me it is not the batteries. We are pulling the glowplugs now to do a compression test.. if all cylinders test good I will pull belt and crank again. Will post compression results back soon
 

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Definitely doesnt sound normal to me cranking over. Very little load on the starter. JMO. Curious to see you CT results

if you find low across the board try squirting a little oil in each cylinder and see if it will run. Triple check you have no intake or exhaust restrictions
 

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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
So the glowplugs didn’t want to come out easy. These things were caked in there. Couldn’t even break them loose and turn them by hand. Needle nose and WD-40 to eventually get them out. See pic. None broken though. Compression testing failed across the board.

Driver

8- 125psi

6- 220psi

4- 185psi

2- 190psi



Passenger

7- 230psi

5-160psi

3-125psi

1-190psi

I don’t even want to put these glowplugs back in it and the compression is so low I don’t think shooting oil in it will help enough. I did use my big jump box during cranking but I’ve yet to hear this thing spin over quick. I’m going to pull the belt and retest if that doesn’t work I’m tempted to hook it up to 24v key off, disconnect the electronics side just engage the starter to see if it will spin over faster / raise compression but I think this thing is on its last leg either way. After all this it would be nice to get it started though lol

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It’s also possible this is heavy fuel wash, maybe from trying to start it for so long with another issue? Not common by any means, but have heard of it happen before. It’s worth a shot, but I do agree those numbers are terrible. Those glow plugs are definitely a bit swollen from looking at those photos. Lots of heavy carbon buildup too.

what is cranking RPM with all the glow plugs out of it? Did you try removing the belt during the test?

What are first pump numbers?
 

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Discussion Starter · #30 ·
So I pulled the belt and cranked. No scanner hooked up just audible sound it’s no faster. I think a 6.4 starter would wake it up at this point. It’s been cranking the same speed every time no matter what I did the only thing I didn’t try was a starter. I cleaned the gunk and carbon off those glowplugs with a brass wheel all but 1 we’re fine. 1 I might have damaged trying to pull out with needle nose. So I shot some oil down each cylinder put a new one in and the old 7 cleaned up. Key on used the bypass wire (by myself) jump box hooked up, started cranking and gave it some more juice and cranked on it for a solid 30 seconds. At one point it popped off for a split second and that was it. Starter didn’t like that long crank too much. I think I’m chalking it up to low compression, it will have to be torn down. What blows my mind is the guy said he drove it here, and had a bad oring on a standpipe I couldn’t get it to build over like 235psi trying to crank up and move it originally. Even more so the gauge cluster says 105k miles. I don’t even want to see the carbon and gunk build up in those cylinders. I wanted to post back of where I am with it and thank everyone for their help and advice I appreciate it. If the project goes further and we tear it down I’ll post pics and update y’all.
 
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