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Ok, I know that there is alot of knowlegable people on this site so i want to start this thread off right. I want to use this post for the sole purpose of a DIY head stud/head gasket removal/installation. I know that there is alot of details here folks so lets be patient and correct in our directions to do this very needed task on all of our loved 6.0L's. Without the high price of a shop. And please let's not make this a send to local shop pay $$$ thread as that is not what everyone is looking for. Any tips or shortcuts will be greatly appreciated as well. Thanks in advace everyone.:ford:
 

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nice gene, where does that grab on the bottom? pinch weld? how is ur cage designed to allow the cab to come off.

the way i do it is, use a 2 post lift? main things to watch out for are the ground straps, steering linkage, parking break cable.
 

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Hope I don't get flamed here, but I can't count how many of these our shop has done. I can't afford to loose a hoist while the headgasket jobs are completed so we don't take the cab off. We do loosen the cab mounts and lift the cab maybe 2-3 inches. We then loosen rear trans mount and tip the engine forward. The only clearance issues are on the number 8 cylinder removing the old bolt and installing the stud. That is the only reason we do the cab mounts and loosen the trans mount. We also remove the a/c, heater housing, looks like a nightmare but it is actually easy. From there we just start removing the front of the truck, bumpers, lights, condensor, radiator ect. For the DIY guy just remember to tape up all the a/c connections as to not allow moisture contamination, otherwise you'll be replacing reciever drier. Then it's off to the intake plenum, then the turbo. From there it's time to start heading into the heads. I do require my guys to pull the injectors, not necessary but it sucks when you ding a injector tip, there goes another $300.00. Have a work bench cleared off and cleaned, keep the valve train and injectors orginized according to there respective cylinders. We built a lifting arm for the heads but they can be removed with a cherry picker or just a good buddy:D. Once the heads are off the cleaning begins. We use 3m finger discs (green) to initially clean off the crud. It usually goes by fairly easy unless the head gaskets where blowen for awhile then your going to have to deal with some pitting. Once the deck and head surfaces have been cleaned it's time to check for warping. Use a quality straight edge and take plenty of measurements, nows the time to find a problem if there is one. I will attach a document from alldata that will show tolerances and torque sequences. Not sure if it will work or not but if anybody wants the page I can fax it. From there it's just reassembly, and be maticulate with the highpressure oil system and injectors, dirt and torn orings are a pain int the a**. The head stud torque will vary depending on manufacture so follow what they recommend but use Ford's sequence. One last note. Before removing the plenum, we remove the EGR valve to inspect for coolant inside the cooler, if there is any trace of coolant replace the cooler before assembly. We have had alot of these with coolant leaks. By lifting the back of the engine up, coolant will roll forward so it is visible through the EGR hole once the EGR is removed. Hope this helps, any questions give me a ring I'd be more than happy to help assist if I can.
http://www.alldatapro.com/alldata/PRO~V74810726~C39777~R0~OF41~N/0/108596970/110671463/110671700/110671706/34853741/100411974/34853743/34854590/34855099
 

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Cool thread
 

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Hope I don't get flamed here, but I can't count how many of these our shop has done. I can't afford to loose a hoist while the headgasket jobs are completed so we don't take the cab off. We do loosen the cab mounts and lift the cab maybe 2-3 inches. We then loosen rear trans mount and tip the engine forward. The only clearance issues are on the number 8 cylinder removing the old bolt and installing the stud. That is the only reason we do the cab mounts and loosen the trans mount. We also remove the a/c, heater housing, looks like a nightmare but it is actually easy. From there we just start removing the front of the truck, bumpers, lights, condensor, radiator ect. For the DIY guy just remember to tape up all the a/c connections as to not allow moisture contamination, otherwise you'll be replacing reciever drier. Then it's off to the intake plenum, then the turbo. From there it's time to start heading into the heads. I do require my guys to pull the injectors, not necessary but it sucks when you ding a injector tip, there goes another $300.00. Have a work bench cleared off and cleaned, keep the valve train and injectors orginized according to there respective cylinders. We built a lifting arm for the heads but they can be removed with a cherry picker or just a good buddy:D. Once the heads are off the cleaning begins. We use 3m finger discs (green) to initially clean off the crud. It usually goes by fairly easy unless the head gaskets where blowen for awhile then your going to have to deal with some pitting. Once the deck and head surfaces have been cleaned it's time to check for warping. Use a quality straight edge and take plenty of measurements, nows the time to find a problem if there is one. I will attach a document from alldata that will show tolerances and torque sequences. Not sure if it will work or not but if anybody wants the page I can fax it. From there it's just reassembly, and be maticulate with the highpressure oil system and injectors, dirt and torn orings are a pain int the a**. The head stud torque will vary depending on manufacture so follow what they recommend but use Ford's sequence. One last note. Before removing the plenum, we remove the EGR valve to inspect for coolant inside the cooler, if there is any trace of coolant replace the cooler before assembly. We have had alot of these with coolant leaks. By lifting the back of the engine up, coolant will roll forward so it is visible through the EGR hole once the EGR is removed. Hope this helps, any questions give me a ring I'd be more than happy to help assist if I can.
http://www.alldatapro.com/alldata/PRO~V74810726~C39777~R0~OF41~N/0/108596970/110671463/110671700/110671706/34853741/100411974/34853743/34854590/34855099

The alldata link didn't work. It needs a username and password. Not to derail or anything. Just trying to help out. Cool thread though.
 

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In my personal opinion,I think pulling the cab is the easiest way to do head gaskets on 6.0.I pull the cabs to pull engines now.I have only pulled one out through the front and it sucked.
 

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I would rather pull the cab, even on the 7.3s it makes life easier. Deadblow and I have it down so well it is still cost effective. Lifted 7.3s the cab comes off for anything having to do with the heads.
 
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