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Discussion Starter #41
To clarify, is it recommended to backflush the oil cooler and heater core before or after flushing the cooling system? Or both before and after?
 

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"resident smarty pants"
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Definitely do it before, otherwise you will potentially be driving some of the solids deeper into the cooler. I would also do it after - but that is just me.
 

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I love my 6.0L and don't have the disdain for it that a lot of people do, but clearly International and Ford missed the boat on a few key things. The coolant (Ford's fault) is a HUGE MISTAKE. International vehicles didn't have nearly the oil cooler issues that we Ford owners have had - they used a coolant that was up to the task in this engine. They did have some issues though - a lot of those may have been casting sand (or insufficient block cleaning after the manufacturing process), OR perhaps related to overheating.

The 03 and 04 HPOP issues were another huge miss IMO. The 05 and up HPOP STC fitting was an issue on both Ford and International.

The 05 and up EGR cooler was a mistake - The designers should have known that the service was too severe for that style of heat exchanger.

Head bolt design is sort of a toss-up to me. A lot of Techs believe that the design was fine if it wasn't tuned, didn't overheat, and didn't over boost.

A lot of the other stuff doesn't require quite the tear down, and while the nuisance factor is high, the cost is more manageable.
 
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Head bolts are fine with proper heat, but the vgt system and a bad injector can over boost the truck and blow a head gasket stock as well.

Factory tuned these trucks rock, I call it 30k tow tune
 
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Definitely! And low fuel pressure can cause an injector to fail and dump fuel....so something as simple as fuel pressure can cause a lot of big issues with these engines!

I watch fuel pressure very closely. Caught a failing fuel pump very quickly. That diligence is why I am at 226k miles on the original injectors (at least that is what I believe).
 

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Discussion Starter #46
In my experience, if you've gone well past the 15 degree difference between coolant and oil temps, just perform a regular flush of the cooling system using restore and then change out the oil cooler. Once the new cooler is installed reverse flush the new oil cooler just so you can get flow through those passageways which had low flow due to the original clogged cooler. As far as that reverse flush fitting goes, you don't need to get one of those. I got some 3/4" clear tubing from the local farm store and adapted that to my garden hose. All you do is remove the cover for the outlet on the oil cooler (same one that expensive fitting replaces) and the hose fits snugly inside. Other than that, definitely listen to Bismic....man knows his stuff!

Is that 3/4" OD or ID? Is it the same for the heater core backflush?
 

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I believe it's OD IIRC. As for the heater core, the inlet line comes out of the front cover and goes up over the passenger side valve cover. The outlet is part of that wonky Y-tube thing under the degas bottle. I just pulled the line off the degas, removed the line going to the engine and covered the hole with my hand, then stuffed the garden hose in to do the backflush on it. I didn't get a darn thing out of the heater, but I did get some goo out on the oil cooler, so it's worth it to give the reverse a try.
 
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A lot of us installed a stainless steel "Y" under the degas bottle because so the plastic on the factory hose was getting brittle and breaking. We all bought them from a Maple Syrup farm supply company. The sold out QUICK, lol. Bet they wondered what happened!
 
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Discussion Starter #49
So, I still have the original oil cooler sealed up in a plastic bag. It only has 19,000 miles on it. In 2016, when I did the head studs, oem gaskets, egr delete, tuner, etc, I upgraded the oil cooler to the latest OEM available that "supposedly" has larger coolant passages.

In case I need it, I've been thinking about soaking the original oil cooler in Schaeffer's Citrol, backflush, soak in CLR and backflush again then re-install after the coolant system flush. Then I would immediately do the same Citrol and CLR soak and flush on the "upgraded" oil cooler that has been on the truck since 2016. This way, I would always have a backup oil cooler. Do you have any thoughts or concerns regarding re-installing the original oil cooler? Fyi; I just ordered the Mishimoto coolant filter yesterday and will install it asap.
 

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I feel that the upgraded one does cool better, so I personally wouldn't want to run the original one again, but I did for 100k miles without issue ...................... so I guess it might boil down to either a personal decision or one that mattered only when working the engine hard.

I have absolutely NO PROOF of this, but IMO Ford (through the supplier) improved the welding on the oil cooler in addition to adding the extra cooling row. Again IMO, they realized the issue with failures and took an opportunity to improve reliability with the performance improvement.
 
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I'm a big fan of being able to re-use something if you can get it repaired. If you have the newer version on the truck now, I would try the reverse flush procedure and see what you get. If it works, I'd leave it in and then try to clean out the original for use as a backup. I would not try to clean the original and then put it on the truck before trying to flush out the installed one, simply because the installed cooler is the newer/improved version.
 
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