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Discussion Starter #1
I bought my 2006 6.0 in 2015 and it only had 19,000 miles on it. I immediately did egr delete plus head studs, gaskets, and oil cooler upgrade, and SCT Tuner.

For close to 3 years and 90,000 miles now, the Wrench light has been coming on with no loss of power, no symptoms of trouble, no nothing. A few months ago I had FICM low voltage and had FICM Fixer rebuild it. Truck runs great. The other day, I went by my favored diesel mechanic to get a code read on the Wrench light. Scanner reported Throttle Position Sensors not synchronized, and Engine Coolant Temp and Engine Oil temp not synchronized. Mechanic grabbed another Scanner and got an oil temp High recorded of 220 degrees. Like most guys, he suggested my oil cooler coolant circuit has inadequate flow. I question this because, sometimes when I start the truck after it sits for an hour or more, the Wrench light comes on within a couple of minutes. Sometimes it doesn't come on for weeks or months. And, I am always suspicious of electronics failures like the TPS's and the ECT and EOT sensors/relays.

Question; What is my best course of action to eliminate or identify faulty TPS's, ECT/EOT sensors/relays as the instigator of the Wrench light? I'm not opposed to replacing the oil cooler but I don't want to replace it and find out the electronics were the problem all along.

Thanks for any help.
 

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"resident smarty pants"
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The code was probably for a high differential between the oil and the coolant temperatures. A specific code number would help. If your coolant and oil temps are the same after leaving the truck in the driveway overnight (at least 10-12 hours), then the oil cooler probably is plugged up.

I assume you are running the Ford Gold coolant?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I didn't write down the codes but I read the descriptions on his laptop.

Throttle Position Sensors not synchronized, and Engine Coolant Temp and Engine Oil temp not synchronized. Mechanic grabbed another Scanner and got an oil temp High recorded of 220 degrees.
 

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Sometimes an aftermarket scan tool will word the code explanation differently than Ford does.
The oil cooler code is probably a P012F code - called an oil cooler efficiency code (first explained in TSB-09-24-3)

As posted above - first verify what your sensors read on a completely cold engine.

Gold coolant is not very tolerant of extreme heat (ie like in the EGR system), exposure to combustion gasses, or even mixing with some other types of coolant. It is prone to dropping out solids or turning into a gel. Even if conditions are perfectly within the designed intent for the engine, the Gold coolant is only good for 45k miles according to Ford. Less than that if the conditions (like heat) are extreme.

Enough years have gone by to prove out the superiority of CAT EC-1 rated ELC coolant.

IMO you have plugged your oil cooler. I also think you need to flush out that coolant and switch to an EC-1 rated ELC coolant.

Also - you can have your own scan tool for under $50. Download ForScan Lite to a smartphone and get the appropriate OBDII adapter (I like BAFX brand for the price and compatibility). Blue Tooth for Android and WiFi for iOS.

EDIT - I have found that for 05+ model years: APP sensor issues (Accelerator Pedal Position sensors, sometimes called throttle pedal position sensors) can trigger a wrench light (I believe when 2 out of 3 potentiometers have a fault). P2138, P2139, P2140 I believe.
 

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I found this -

TSB
06-22-9 6.0L - MIL ON WITH DTC P2138, P2139, AND P2140

Publication Date: October 23, 2006

FORD: 2005-2006 E-350, E-450
2005-2007 F-Super Duty


This article supersedes TSB 06-13-10 to update the vehicle model years coverage.

ISSUE:
Some 2005-2006 E-Series vehicles built through 6/12/2006 and 2005-2007 F-Super Duty vehicles built through 6/5/2006, equipped with a 6.0L diesel engine may exhibit the malfunction indicator lamp (MIL) on with diagnostic trouble codes (DTCs) P2138 P2139, and P2140.

ACTION:
Reprogram the powertrain control module (PCM) to the latest calibration using IDS release IDS-45.8 and higher. This new calibration is not included in the 2006.9 DVD. This calibration contains a revised strategy to eliminate the occurrence of a false P2138, P2139, or P2140. Calibration files may also be obtained at Buy Motorcraft Parts Online | Official Motorcraft Auto Parts Site | FordParts.com. Follow normal diagnostics if any of these DTCs still occur after reprogramming.


WARRANTY STATUS:
Eligible Under Provisions Of New Vehicle Limited Warranty Coverage And Emissions Warranty Coverage

OPERATION DESCRIPTION TIME
062209A 2005-2007 F-Super Duty 6.0L 2005-2006 Econoline 6.0L: Check For DTCs And Reprogram The PCM (Do Not Use With 12650D, 12650D84) 0.7 Hr.
MT062209 Use SLTS Operations If Available; Claim Additional Diagnosis Or Labor Performed As Actual Time Actual Time

DEALER CODING
BASIC PART NO. CONDITION CODE
recalem 04

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

NOTE: The information in Technical Service Bulletins is intended for use by trained, professional technicians with the knowledge, tools, and equipment to do the job properly and safely. It informs these technicians of conditions that may occur on some vehicles, or provides information that could assist in proper vehicle service. The procedures should not be performed by "do-it-yourselfers". Do not assume that a condition described affects your car or truck. Contact a Ford, Lincoln, or Mercury dealership to determine whether the Bulletin applies to your vehicle. Warranty Policy and Extended Service Plan documentation determine Warranty and/or Extended Service Plan coverage unless stated otherwise in the TSB article. The information in this Technical Service Bulletin (TSB) was current at the time of printing. Ford Motor Company reserves the right to supercede this information with updates. The most recent information is available through Ford Motor Company's on-line technical resources.

Copyright © 2006 Ford Motor Company
 

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"resident smarty pants"
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I also have some notes that state to check 3 areas for wiring harness chafing:
1. harness crossover under the air filter, at a stud on the corner of the valve cover that can cause problems if the clip on the harness is missing and the stud is poking the bundle
2. near the steering column, where it goes through the firewall
3. PCM harness can chafe at/near the PCM
 

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Discussion Starter #9
bismic1 you da man! On the chance its a plugged or partially plugged oil cooler, is there anything to be gained by flushing the cooling system?
 

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Discussion Starter #10
EDIT - I have found that for 05+ model years: APP sensor issues (Accelerator Pedal Position sensors, sometimes called throttle pedal position sensors) can trigger a wrench light (I believe when 2 out of 3 potentiometers have a fault). P2138, P2139, P2140 I believe.

This is what I have suspected as at least a possible contributor because the diagnostics specified TPS.
 

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I was involved in some threads quite a few years ago regarding throttle pedal position sensor codes. So much time has past I can't recall all of the information very well. In trying to do some research to help you, I found a few things. First off, there was disagreement over the wrench light being thrown for the Throttle Pedal Position Codes. After re-reading the old stuff, I do believe that for 05+ they can throw the wrench light. That is why I edited the post above.

Here is some of that information from the past:

and his original thread:

Check for the harness chafing in the three areas I posted above. If you can get a monitor, I would recommend calling up the vreference voltage (key-on, engine-off).

I sure would like to see the actual code numbers if it is possible.
 

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bismic1 you da man! On the chance its a plugged or partially plugged oil cooler, is there anything to be gained by flushing the cooling system?
Usually you have to specifically back-flush the oil cooler. A simple flush of the coolant system will not work because the oil cooler passageways are VERY small.

There are a number of threads on all of the forums about back-flushing oil coolers.

Below is a link to one way to back-flush the oil cooler (it is an expensive adapter though):
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Thanks for taking the time research. The '06 owner manual indicates throttle issues will light up the wrench.

Do you have a favorable experience and/or opinion of any of the aftermarket oil coolers? If I have to replace it, I'm not real keen on installing a 3rd motorcraft oil cooler if there is something proven to be more durable / better.

My mechanic is motorcraft all the way but he makes $$$$$$$ off of failed components...

I like to do the simple stuff myself.
 

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Once you get the correct coolant, I am a fan of OEM all the way.

The only exception with the oil cooler is if you are installing the air-to-oil cooler from BulletProofDiesel. It is a good unit, but expensive.

BPD also makes a kit that relocates the OEM oil cooler - makes it easier to change. I like that idea as well.

An oil cooler backflush might clear the oil cooler (but as stated above, a regular cooling system won't). That said, if you do a regular coolant system flush after an oil cooler backflush, it could plug up the oil cooler again. Clearing the system completely is a pain!

If you are going to change out the oil cooler, before you do, you need to flush the entire coolant system. It would help to know if your oil cooler is being clogged by rust and mineral particles or the silicate gel goo that forms from degraded Ford Gold coolant.

Two types of chemical flushes are required for the two different types of contaminants:

Restore Plus - for the rust and minerals

Restore - for the silicate gel

Maybe you could drain some coolant and tell what is in your system?

I sure wouldn't flush the cooling system with Restore Plus after a new oil cooler is installed. More than one person has done it and plugged up the new oil cooler.
 

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It is involved, but this document is a good guide on how to flush the coolant system:

SrMasterTech has a video on flushing the cooling system withe Ford VC-9 (same as the Restore Plus):

Be aware that the entire cooling system holds 27.5 quarts (about 7 gallons), and only half to 2/3 or so will drain out. So after a VERY THOROUGH FLUSH (with distilled water), you need to charge the cooling system with apprx 3.5 gallons of 100% (non-diluted) coolant and then top it off with distilled water. This procedure will ensure a 50/50 mix of the coolant.
 

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Part II from srmastertech
 

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In my experience, if you've gone well past the 15 degree difference between coolant and oil temps, just perform a regular flush of the cooling system using restore and then change out the oil cooler. Once the new cooler is installed reverse flush the new oil cooler just so you can get flow through those passageways which had low flow due to the original clogged cooler. As far as that reverse flush fitting goes, you don't need to get one of those. I got some 3/4" clear tubing from the local farm store and adapted that to my garden hose. All you do is remove the cover for the outlet on the oil cooler (same one that expensive fitting replaces) and the hose fits snugly inside. Other than that, definitely listen to Bismic....man knows his stuff!
 
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Discussion Starter #19
Minor update. I've been covered up with other stuff and just got around to ordering the BAFX and downloading ForScan Lite.

An interesting development; I've driven a few times about 17 miles each way with 4 to 6 hours between arrival and return. The check engine light came on a couple of trips ago. What is weird is the last trip returning home, the wrench light stayed off while the check engine remained on. This causes me to further suspect sensors like APS and/or EOT. Will report on codes when I can retrieve them.

Are all of the APS on the accelerator pedal and its linkage or are any on the throttle body? Where are the EOT and ECT sensors located. I haven't found the diagram showing theses sensors location in my 6.0 Bible.
 
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