6.0 start and stalls seconds later(weird igniton prob)

6486 Views 50 Replies 7 Participants Last post by cbunch69, 13 d ago

Acdaddy_HD

Discussion Starter · Jan 8, 2021

My 6.0 several weeks ago started acting up. I was in middle of a 60 mile trip when I stopped at a gas station and came back out and started truck to be pleasantly surprised with the skipping rough idle sound. It lost all power had to get towed home. I'm still at a standstill on it. If I turn key from off straight to starting engine it fires up and runs great for 6-10 sec and then dies like I turned key. But if I turn key and let pump run for any amount of time and then start it it will either shut right off or not start at all. If I let pump run till right before it shuts off and then start it it won't start at all. I've changed the pump out several times. Got it a new one thru Warranty. New filters with stock caps and O rings. New banjo bolts and washers from ford. Did a oil cooler replacement with oil/fuel tower replacement not long ago. I had codes for an injector circuit high on 6 and a barometric/map code and a p0237 for turbo with some glowplugs codes. I've gotten rid of barometric/map and the injector 6 high comes here and there when trying to start it. I found some shorted wires in harness running on back of engine compartment above turbo. Repaired them same result. I'd appreciate any and all suggestions. Ill add pic of shorted wires and ipr screen. Thanks!!

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Acdaddy_HD

Discussion Starter · #2 · Jan 8, 2021

Acdaddy_HD said:
My 6.0 several weeks ago started acting up. I was in middle of a 60 mile trip when I stopped at a gas station and came back out and started truck to be pleasantly surprised with the skipping rough idle sound. It lost all power had to get towed home. I'm still at a standstill on it. If I turn key from off straight to starting engine it fires up and runs great for 6-10 sec and then dies like I turned key. But if I turn key and let pump run for any amount of time and then start it it will either shut right off or not start at all. If I let pump run till right before it shuts off and then start it it won't start at all. I've changed the pump out several times. Got it a new one thru Warranty. New filters with stock caps and O rings. New banjo bolts and washers from ford. Did a oil cooler replacement with oil/fuel tower replacement not long ago. I had codes for an injector circuit high on 6 and a barometric/map code and a p0237 for turbo with some glowplugs codes. I've gotten rid of barometric/map and the injector 6 high comes here and there when trying to start it. I found some shorted wires in harness running on back of engine compartment above turbo. Repaired them same result. I'd appreciate any and all suggestions. Ill add pic of shorted wires and ipr screen. Thanks!! View attachment 203086 View attachment 203085

Also it will not shift out of park unless engine off and turn key to on (engine off) and press brake and then shift to neutral and then start truck.

6_Riders

· #3 · Jan 9, 2021

Acdaddy_HD said:
Also it will not shift out of park unless engine off and turn key to on (engine off) and press brake and then shift to neutral and then start truck.

This is normal. The key has to be in the (on) position and brake pedal depressed to shift from park (in any vehicle). If it won't shift from park with the engine running and brake depressed then you have a wiring problem under the dash or in the transmission harness.
As far as the truck starting/running/dieing/not starting..... Your diagnostics all aim at fuel delivery, what makes you think it's fuel related?

Answer this and we can work on some trouble shooting.... BTW, do you have a scanner of any type?

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Acdaddy_HD

Discussion Starter · #4 · Jan 10, 2021

Well now I'm seeing its a ipr ipc issue. My ipr never builds above 70-80 at most and it jumps all over the place. It won't start at all at the moment I have torque pro. Ficim is at 49.5 v

6_Riders said:
This is normal. The key has to be in the (on) position and brake pedal depressed to shift from park (in any vehicle). If it won't shift from park with the engine running and brake depressed then you have a wiring problem under the dash or in the transmission harness.
As far as the truck starting/running/dieing/not starting..... Your diagnostics all aim at fuel delivery, what makes you think it's fuel related?

Answer this and we can work on some trouble shooting.... BTW, do you have a scanner of any type?

Sent from my Redmi Note 9 Pro using Tapatalk

Well now I'm seeing its a ipr ipc issue. My ipr never builds above 70-80 at most and it jumps all over the place. It won't start at all at the moment I have torque pro. Ficim is at 49.5 v

6_Riders

· #5 · Jan 11, 2021

Acdaddy_HD said:
Well now I'm seeing its a ipr ipc issue. My ipr never builds above 70-80 at most and it jumps all over the place. It won't start at all at the moment I have torque pro. Ficim is at 49.5 v

Well now I'm seeing its a ipr ipc issue. My ipr never builds above 70-80 at most and it jumps all over the place. It won't start at all at the moment I have torque pro. Ficim is at 49.5 v

You need to do an air pressure test, use the ipr port for this as it's the most accurate. When I did mine, it was obvious that I had a leak. It wouldn't even build pressure.

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Acdaddy_HD

Discussion Starter · #6 · Jan 15, 2021

6_Riders said:
You need to do an air pressure test, use the ipr port for this as it's the most accurate. When I did mine, it was obvious that I had a leak. It wouldn't even build pressure.

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So would it cause it to start up fine and shut off after a few seconds? And I'm thinking its some electrical problem somewhere bc if I leave key on "on" for a few seconds and let pump run and the start it it won't start and it sounds like starter snags or something. But it i go straight from off to start without leaving key "on" for any amount of time it runs for like 6 seconds and then shuts off. Seems to be a correlation between how long key is left in on position and how long it runs before stalling.

Acdaddy_HD

Discussion Starter · #7 · Jan 15, 2021 (Edited)

Update** still not fixed. New ipr still not fixed icp looks fine while cranking above 500 psi. I'm completely stumped. I have found i few shorted spots on harness but sodered and repair and no change. I read about ur CKP sensor is what commands ur ipr to move for 14% does that mean it's what tells it to move to 85% as well? Bc its the one sensor i haven't messed with to see if its screwing up my vref.

Acdaddy_HD

Discussion Starter · #8 · Jan 16, 2021

Acdaddy_HD said:
Update** still not fixed. New ipr still not reaching 85% icp looks fine while cranking above 500 psi. I'm completely stumped. I have found i few shorted spots on harness but sodered and repair and no change. I read about ur CKP sensor is what commands ur ipr to move for 14% does that mean it's what tells it to move to 85% as well? Bc its the one sensor i haven't messed with to see if its screwing up my vref.

Let me clarify *** if there is a short on CKP sensor then could it command the ipr back to 14%( which is key on engine OFF) after it starts therfore shutting engine down due to not enough oil command??🤔🤔

6_Riders

· #9 · Jan 16, 2021

Acdaddy_HD said:
Let me clarify *** if there is a short on CKP sensor then could it command the ipr back to 14%( which is key on engine OFF) after it starts therfore shutting engine down due to not enough oil command??

Have you checked the fuel flow yet? Or, if the bowl even holds fuel?
Your description still leads to a fuel problem!!

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Acdaddy_HD

Discussion Starter · #10 · Jan 16, 2021

6_Riders said:
Have you checked the fuel flow yet? Or, if the bowl even holds fuel?
Your description still leads to a fuel problem!!

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Yes I've had someone turn pump on a no bubbles present and it fills very quickly to my surprise. Bc for the longest I've fought fuel pressure problems with my banjo bolts. I mean the last part of fuel delivery system that I may question is the banjo line on top filter housing (the line with hole t hat banjo bolt goes thru) had been in a bind when I recently changed banjo bolts and washers (from dealer) and I can hear hissing from around the housing but I can't find the dammed source. Bc it sounds omnipresent 😅

Acdaddy_HD

Discussion Starter · #11 · Jan 16, 2021

6_Riders said:
Have you checked the fuel flow yet? Or, if the bowl even holds fuel?
Your description still leads to a fuel problem!!

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And I totally agree that it leads to a fuel problem. But I don't know how to pin point it to the way that its stalling. I can't get it to run for more than 6 sec( but running great while it is) as long as i go from off on ignition straight to start. If I let any time pas with ignition on (on) barley runs.

Acdaddy_HD

Discussion Starter · #12 · Jan 16, 2021

Here are some pics of the chafe point I found on harness leading toward the air compressor. Looks as if my belt had a fruit ninja slicing party on it.

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Acdaddy_HD

Discussion Starter · #13 · Jan 16, 2021

And lastly I had a guy I met come run a computer on it (which he said is same as ford dealer uses and looked legit) and he said i had a CAN BUS short somewhere and a had alot of codes and his best guess was there was a short shutting it down. Guess I should have already mentioned this. But then again he was straight up with me and said he had never chased and electrical prob with a 6.0. He had just borrowed the computer

6_Riders

· #14 · Jan 16, 2021

Acdaddy_HD said:
And I totally agree that it leads to a fuel problem. But I don't know how to pin point it to the way that its stalling. I can't get it to run for more than 6 sec( but running great while it is) as long as i go from off on ignition straight to start. If I let any time pas with ignition on (on) barley runs.

Take the upper fuel filter cap off, look to see if the bowl is full.
With the filter out, cap off, turn the truck to (on) don't crank it, see if the fuel bowl fills in 2-3 seconds (it'll over flow if you don't watch it).
Next, if it passes those 2 things, is to test fuel pressure.... Get an oil pressure gauge (100 psi) and a metric adapter. Hook the gauge up, with everything re-assembled, cycle the ignition to on, leaving it on for 15 seconds, do this 4 times and read the pressure.
None of this needs the truck running.

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Acdaddy_HD

Discussion Starter · #15 · Jan 16, 2021

Ok will do! Also right before it started skipping on the trip it broke down on i watched my fuel gauge shoot to full when I got of in terstate about 15 miles before

6_Riders said:
Take the upper fuel filter cap off, look to see if the bowl is full.
With the filter out, cap off, turn the truck to (on) don't crank it, see if the fuel bowl fills in 2-3 seconds (it'll over flow if you don't watch it).
Next, if it passes those 2 things, is to test fuel pressure.... Get an oil pressure gauge (100 psi) and a metric adapter. Hook the gauge up, with everything re-assembled, cycle the ignition to on, leaving it on for 15 seconds, do this 4 times and read the pressure.
None of this needs the truck running.

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Ok will do! Also right before it started skipping on the trip it broke down on i watched my fuel gauge shoot to full when I got of in terstate about 15 miles before at a restaurant and I went in came out started fine. Gauge went back to normal at some point before it started skipping. . Ran fine till 15 miles latter when I stopped and went down hill from there.

Acdaddy_HD

Discussion Starter · #16 · Jan 16, 2021

6_Riders said:
Take the upper fuel filter cap off, look to see if the bowl is full.
With the filter out, cap off, turn the truck to (on) don't crank it, see if the fuel bowl fills in 2-3 seconds (it'll over flow if you don't watch it).
Next, if it passes those 2 things, is to test fuel pressure.... Get an oil pressure gauge (100 psi) and a metric adapter. Hook the gauge up, with everything re-assembled, cycle the ignition to on, leaving it on for 15 seconds, do this 4 times and read the pressure.
None of this needs the truck running.

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One last thing. Would a fuel pressure problem cause it to not turn over? Like it trys turn over but snags. Bc thats what happens if I leave key in (on) position for more than 5 sec or so before starting it. Thats what is kinda confusing me.

Acdaddy_HD

Discussion Starter · #17 · Jan 20, 2021

6_Riders said:
Take the upper fuel filter cap off, look to see if the bowl is full.
With the filter out, cap off, turn the truck to (on) don't crank it, see if the fuel bowl fills in 2-3 seconds (it'll over flow if you don't watch it).
Next, if it passes those 2 things, is to test fuel pressure.... Get an oil pressure gauge (100 psi) and a metric adapter. Hook the gauge up, with everything re-assembled, cycle the ignition to on, leaving it on for 15 seconds, do this 4 times and read the pressure.
None of this needs the truck running.

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What numbers should I be seeing?

6_Riders

· #18 · Jan 20, 2021

Acdaddy_HD said:
What numbers should I be seeing?

40 psi to start,should idle about 60 psi.

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Acdaddy_HD

Discussion Starter · #19 · Jan 20, 2021

6_Riders said:
40 psi to start,should idle about 60 psi.

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Fuel looks good. Steady at 63 idle. Then just drops dead with truck

Acdaddy_HD

Discussion Starter · #20 · Jan 20, 2021

6_Riders said:
Take the upper fuel filter cap off, look to see if the bowl is full.
With the filter out, cap off, turn the truck to (on) don't crank it, see if the fuel bowl fills in 2-3 seconds (it'll over flow if you don't watch it).
Next, if it passes those 2 things, is to test fuel pressure.... Get an oil pressure gauge (100 psi) and a metric adapter. Hook the gauge up, with everything re-assembled, cycle the ignition to on, leaving it on for 15 seconds, do this 4 times and read the pressure.
None of this needs the truck running.

Sent from my Redmi Note 9 Pro using Tapatalk

It stills seems to point to something with this ignition thing

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