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EA - Eggfarts Anonymous!
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Hi everyone, my 03 6.0 has the same issue. Did anyone find the problem. I need help because this truck is my job. I was pulling a load when it happened to me. The longer it would sit the farther it would go. But it would start at any time within 2 minutes of shutting down. Full power no issues for a couple miles then #### off again. After unhooking the load I haven’t had it shut off again and I’ve driven it 70-80 miles at a time unloaded. I need to work so I reallly need help. Any info would be greatly appreciated.
welcome to the forum! we really need so data from the truck to help out much, but i;ll go ahead and give you some things to poke around on...

1. you can unplug the ICP sensor and teh engine should run fine. if it fixes the problem, then you might consider a new one. Else, move on the something else lol! the same applies to the MAF and EBP sensors, but i doubt they are the issue.

2. Reseat the FICM harness if you have a few minutes to pull the degas bottle out of the way.

3. well... we really need some data haha! whenever you can, get ahold of a scanner and give us some readings like EOT, ICP & IPR, FICM voltages... having those values while it's giving you fits would be the most help
 

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I had a similar issue with my 03 6.0 for the past couple years, I’ve changed my icp, ipr, had ficm rebuilt, completely removed and inspected all wire looms, new batteries, and so on, then one day it kinda clicked when I had an intermittent radio and window power loss and I sent in my dash cluster and fixed 98% of the gremlins that was going on. Not saying that’s your issue but definitely worth keeping in the back of your mind. These 6.0s are soooo temperamental it could be anything
 

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EA - Eggfarts Anonymous!
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I had a similar issue with my 03 6.0 for the past couple years, I’ve changed my icp, ipr, had ficm rebuilt, completely removed and inspected all wire looms, new batteries, and so on, then one day it kinda clicked when I had an intermittent radio and window power loss and I sent in my dash cluster and fixed 98% of the gremlins that was going on. Not saying that’s your issue but definitely worth keeping in the back of your mind. These 6.0s are soooo temperamental it could be anything
actaully i can believe that. i just went through a electrical gremlin in a little car where one of the speakers was dying and somehow it was shutting down the whole sound system, the warning chimes, and the gauge cluster intermittently... who knew a dead speaker would do that lol
 

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Hi I have a 06 and I just spent over a $1000 at the ford dealership in sanford nc they said it was the fule pump .well two one day later it ####### cut off with my wife and kids in the truck I had to leave work early .she had to restart the truck 3 times in 5miles to make it home.. I have running in the driveway now for about 35min and it seems to be running fine... Please 🙏 🙏🙏🙏 I need help what should I do??????
 

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Hi I have a 06 and I just spent over a $1000 at the ford dealership in sanford nc they said it was the fule pump .well two one day later it ####### cut off with my wife and kids in the truck I had to leave work early .she had to restart the truck 3 times in 5miles to make it home.. I have running in the driveway now for about 35min and it seems to be running fine... Please 🙏 🙏🙏🙏 I need help what should I do??????
Did you ever find out what the problem was
 

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The 6.0L is complicated. You aren't likely to solve problems by just duplicating something someone else did to fix their individual issue.
Yeah I have a snap on scanner Nothing is irregular It has a new ICP IPR And just replace 2 injectors The alternator is new and batteries are good
 

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"resident smarty pants"
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So you have EXACTLY the same issue as the quoted post? Just dies randomly?

Will it randomly die with BOTH a cold or hot engine, or only on a hot engine?

How about listing what model year engine you have, how many miles on it, any recent work or recent modifications?

It would be helpful to have ICP and IPR data when the engine is hot.

Also FICM voltages (MPower, LPower, VPower) under the three conditions: KOEO, cranking, and at idle.
 

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Help!! My 2005 F250 crew cab 4x4 6.0 is idling fine once it warms up and I cut it off it takes about 1 hour before I can crank it back up. Now it's started dying after I drive it couple miles down the road it loses power and cuts off. Then have to wait another hour to start it back up.

The last time it did it I had to jump the truck off because the guys driving had the battery week. It started all this trouble when I used Hotshot Stiction Eliminator in the oil change.
 

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You really should start your own thread...you'll get more responses. But since I'm in a helpful mood, I'll give you at least one answer here. From your description I suspect you have a leak in your high pressure oil system. However, everything is just guesswork if we don't have any data. You need to get something which can monitor live data coming from your truck's computer. The best way, IMO, is to just use your phone or a tablet. Download the TorquePro app and the FORScan app (this one is about $5 I think). They will pull codes, monitor all values, etc, etc. You will need different OBDII adapters depending on whether you have an Android or iPhone. If you have an Android you want THIS ONE. If you have an iPhone you will want THIS ONE. There are other brands of adapters out there, but this one has proven to be the best. I had a different brand for years and it worked fine...or so I thought. I bought a BAFX because I wanted to have a spare and when using the BAFX certain options on the FORScan came up which hadn't worked before, and some PIDs on Torque which never showed up suddenly worked. So IMO, it's worth it for the extra 7 bucks. Anyway, using these will allow you to view what your truck is doing while driving. In this particular situation, I would like to see your ICP and IPR values.

FORScan is more difficult to use initially, but can do more. Torque is very user friendly, but limited in its scope. Personnaly, I'd suggest just getting Torque at first and then upgrade when you've got some experience with this engine. Sorry, I digress....on the Torque app, when you first start it you will want to set things up. In the lower left hand corner of the app you will see the setup gear. Open that up, tap the settings option, and then go through setting everything up....preferences like english vs metric, background theme, etc. However, of most importance, you have to go into "Manage extra PIDs/Sensors" and then tap the three dots in the upper right hand corner. Four options will appear. Tap "Add predefined list", then tap ""Ford (Incl PowerStroke)". Once you've got that done, go back to the main page, hit that gear again, and set up a vehicle profile. I have a profile for each type of vehicle I have....one for the 6.0, one for the gasser, one for the Chevy, etc. When done you will need to plug in and then pair your OBDII adapter if you have Android, or plug in and connect to it via wifi if you have iPhone. Once your phone is connected to it, you will need to go BACK into settings to the OBD2 Adapter Settings to select which device Torque will use. I know, sounds like a lot, but you only need to do it once.

Finally, after all that is done, you can go back to the main page, select which profile you want loaded, and then let the system connect. While it's connecting, you will see four icons flashing towards the top of the screen....a satellite, a phone, an OBDII adapter, and a truck/car. Flashing means they are trying to connect. Once they have connected, they stop flashing. When that happens, you should also see the gauge on the screen (an accelerometer) turn into a tachometer. Now you can choose what you want to look at. 99% of the time I use the fault codes or real time info. For now, we want real time. When you open that you may or may not already have some PIDs showing up....I can't remember if it defaults to some or not. If there are some there, tap and hold on the "gauge" until a menu comes up, then select "delete display". Clear everything off the screen. Now tap and hold the blank screen....tap add display....select which type you want to view. I like digital display for most things, but for a couple the dial style can be helpful because it will show lowest and highest values encountered during the session. Once you have decided, a list of sensors will show up. If they are in green it means your truck is providing data for it and you can monitor that data. If it does not show up in green then you can't look at it. This is ok because there are lots of vehicles out there and not all will view the same sensor in the same way, which is why you will see three transmission fluid temp methods, for example. For now, you will want to add Injection Control Pressure and Injection Pressure Regulator Duty Cycle. (see pic below). Lastly, select a gauge size. I opt for small.

Now that we've (hopefully) got you up and running on the app, go out and drive while watching (safely) the parameters. A healthy high pressure system can generate 4000 PSI at WOT. At idle you should see approximately 600 PSI and your IPR% (the amount the IPR valve is closed) should be low to mid 20's. If IPR is 30 or more that's the first sign there's probably a leak. When driving at a steady speed on a flat surface what are your ICP and IPR numbers? What about when you go WOT for a few seconds? Next, go up a hill or accelerate gradually. What do they do now? If you have a leak, the IPR will go up and the ICP will either stay where it is or will slowly go up. In some cases your ICP may go up right away, but if your IPR hits 85% you definitely have a leak. Anyway, drive it around and record those numbers. And if you get to that point where it won't start, DEFINITELY get the numbers when you're cranking your engine. I suspect you will have 85% and less than 500 PSI.

Oh, one more thing....a strong electrical system is a must on this truck. Having low or dead batteries can destroy one of the computers. So if you have to crank for long periods, make sure you have it jumpered to begin with or connected to a battery booster.

204446
 

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Wow,.. I sure appreciate that Weatherlite. I use a scan tool called a Launch CRP123 I picked up a good deal last year when the truck first started acting up. I'll try your route to see about those numbers and repost it. I'll try starting my own thread and see what we can do.
 

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2006 F250, 6.0 powerstroke
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I have the same issue with my 6.0 shuts down while driving and it will also shut down while idling. I had my scanner hooked up and could watch my alt volts start dropping and then truck shuts down. I replaced both battery's and the alt. Still doing the same thing. I am at a loss on this issue, can anyone give me a direction to go?
Shutting down while driving seems to be a common issue related to the iCP. Start there first.
 

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