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2006 6.0
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5 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
a week or so ago I posted here about putting air to the HPOS on my 06 6.0 and someone mentioned that it was a bad idea to put air to the ICP sensor port.... can anyone give a valid reason why? I'm trying to troubleshoot a no start and I've done just about everything to my knowledge I can to diagnose a problem. Today I put a new HPOP in, with new IPR. Still no start after cranking the motor for awhile hoping it would just be air in the HPOS.

A week ago I was trying to find a hard start issue and a no start when warm issue.... ended up being the top injector O-ring on the injector number 5. put new o rings in all 4 injectors on the driver side. Stand pipe and dummy tube O-rings looked like new, no issue at all there. put injectors back in, oil rail and air tested again and the oil rail seemed to be leaking at the same spot as the injector number 5... took oil rail off opened the nipple on the bottom of the oil rail and inspected O-ring and it seemed to be fine. Put it back together and air tested again and everything was sealed tight. No start since doing this and that's what led me to believe it was the HPOP....

Next question.... this is my main concern. When the first problem started and I was noticing a long start when warm it finally went to a no start when warm so I changed the oil. I use ROTELLA T6 and it didn't really help with the long start... so finally it left me sitting and I replaced the IPR. truck started up ran fine for a day or two and started doing the same things. Can the IPR keep the truck from starting even when cold? I Think I'm having issues with the IPR not working at all due to the wiring... Nothing looks chafed. Anyway I can bypass the wiring harness and test this theory ?? oh and I did clean all connections and plugs with carb cleaner and put dielectric grease in all and any I could easily reach... even on FICM connections.

Please help...

Been through every forum and seen all the check list for a no start issue... Don't need that. Maybe someone else has been in this boat before
 

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09 6.4
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989 Posts
ive seen the nipples in the oil rail have a groove cut in them causing a hard hot start and a high pressure leak. but if the rail sealed after you took it off again then i assume its okay now.

ipr can cause a no cold start problem as well. i assume to rule out a wiring issue you could take the ipr harness and by using IDS manually "close" the IPR percent and make sure the voltage is dropping/rising accordingly using a voltmeter.

have you checked to see if you have low side oil pressure making its way to the pump? to check this...remove the oil filter and have someone crank the engine while you look inside the housing and make sure it fills up. if so then you have low side pressure getting to the pump
 

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2006 6.0
Joined
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5 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
ive seen the nipples in the oil rail have a groove cut in them causing a hard hot start and a high pressure leak. but if the rail sealed after you took it off again then i assume its okay now.

ipr can cause a no cold start problem as well. i assume to rule out a wiring issue you could take the ipr harness and by using IDS manually "close" the IPR percent and make sure the voltage is dropping/rising accordingly using a voltmeter.

have you checked to see if you have low side oil pressure making its way to the pump? to check this...remove the oil filter and have someone crank the engine while you look inside the housing and make sure it fills up. if so then you have low side pressure getting to the pump
LPOP is good. pump fills the filter housing in a few seconds literally. Maybe I need bigger compressor to check for air leak in the hpos. My compressor is only putting maybe 200 psi... with my oil being 30 degrees I shouldn't have any problem starting it.
 

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Fixing Broken Stuff
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2,078 Posts
Do you know what your ICP is when cranking? It sounds like you don't have enough for the engine to start.
And putting air pressure in the ICP sensor is perfectly OK.
 

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2006 6.0
Joined
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5 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Do you know what your ICP is when cranking? It sounds like you don't have enough for the engine to start.
And putting air pressure in the ICP sensor is perfectly OK.
ICP when cranking is under 500. it isn't getting any higher that 365psi. I figured the air was ok cause if the system is getting up to 3000 psi my air compressor is not even coming close to that even being on non stop.
 

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Registered
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1,459 Posts
ICP when cranking is under 500. it isn't getting any higher that 365psi. I figured the air was ok cause if the system is getting up to 3000 psi my air compressor is not even coming close to that even being on non stop.
at 365psi, your pump seems to be working (obviously if its brand new) being that you replaced everything on the onside of the motor, have you replaced seals, stand pipes, and dummy plugs on the other side?

from my experience, if your building that much pressure, its a definite leak, not a faulty pump. I would run the air test again, pull the oil filler neck off, and the ccv tube off the valve covers, and listen for air leaks once the ipr is commanded to 100% (or you power it with 12v)
 

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2006 6.0
Joined
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5 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
at 365psi, your pump seems to be working (obviously if its brand new) being that you replaced everything on the onside of the motor, have you replaced seals, stand pipes, and dummy plugs on the other side?

from my experience, if your building that much pressure, its a definite leak, not a faulty pump. I would run the air test again, pull the oil filler neck off, and the ccv tube off the valve covers, and listen for air leaks once the ipr is commanded to 100% (or you power it with 12v)
Im at that point now with running more air test to it, but what don't make sense is that the oil is around 30degress and it should start even with a small leak. Ill be messing with it all day to try and troubleshoot it more and hopefully have it pin pointed out to what it is most likely its the top injector o rings on cause I don't see a dummy plug to stand pipe failing with less than 30k miles on them... we will see.

Any other ideas ?
 

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Fixing Broken Stuff
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2,078 Posts
Does it have the up-dated stand pipes and dummy plugs with the 12mm hex drive? The originals were 1/2 square drive.
 

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2006 6.0
Joined
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5 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
Its does have the updated stand pipes. after doing some more test that. come to find out I must have fried my PCM due to hooking an RC car battery up to my IPR wiring. the truck start up as soon as I jumped the IPR with a 9v. I only let it out for a few second than as soon as I unhook the 9v the truck dies. I believe I mave have fried the pcm.
 

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09 6.4
Joined
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989 Posts
Its does have the updated stand pipes. after doing some more test that. come to find out I must have fried my PCM due to hooking an RC car battery up to my IPR wiring. the truck start up as soon as I jumped the IPR with a 9v. I only let it out for a few second than as soon as I unhook the 9v the truck dies. I believe I mave have fried the pcm.
i think you would have at least a code if that were the case. did you just use jumper wires on the harness? or did you hook right in to the valve itself?

do you have another pcm from a buddy you could swap in? to try?
 

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Fixing Broken Stuff
Joined
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2,078 Posts
Its does have the updated stand pipes. after doing some more test that. come to find out I must have fried my PCM due to hooking an RC car battery up to my IPR wiring. the truck start up as soon as I jumped the IPR with a 9v. I only let it out for a few second than as soon as I unhook the 9v the truck dies. I believe I mave have fried the pcm.
So your thinking you put 9V back to the PCM?? and that you fried it from back feeding it?? If that's the case I would try a known good PCM just to make sure.
 
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