[Strokkinngggg]

Hey guys I’ve been noticing my truck is doing the common no start hot as I understand when it’s a leak and no start the ipr goes up and icp pressure goes down but both are good while cranking over 600psi and ipr 32%-34% I have the fitting to put air into the system both the one for the icp and ipr but don’t really know how to do it and if my air comp will work also which fitting is better to use when doing the test please need help on what to check first before throwing parts and money rn is the only truck in using so need to fix it!!!!TIA
Also it starts with starting fluid when she does that but don’t really like to use it

 

[Weatherlite]

First, never use starting fluid. You're just asking for something to break using that. So let me be sure I understand, and for clarification for everyone else....you're spinning the motor, trying to start it, and you're seeing 600PSI on the ICP and 32-34% on the IPR. Is that correct? Or are those the numbers you're seeing at idle? The reason I ask is when cranking with no leaks we will typically see 1200-1500 PSI and perhaps 50% or so on the IPR. When I see your numbers it's usually at idle and with a minor leak.

Anyway, to answer your question, IMO it's best to use the IPR adapter to apply air. Most any air compressor will work, so long as you can get above 100PSI and have a big enough tank....you don't want the compressor running when doing the test because you have to listen for leaks. So once it's on and air is applied, listen for leaks through the oil fill tube and the CCV port on the drivers side. If you hear a leak which is loud on one side and quiet on the other, your leak is on the loud side. If you hear loud leaks on both sides, you probably have leaks on both sides. If you hear soft leaks on both sides then you probably have a leak in the HPOP area. You didn't state what year you have, so it could be your J-tube or STC fitting, or even the HPOP seal itself. If you don't hear any leaks at all I would then open up the oil filter, allow it to drain, and listen. If you hear a gurgle then the HPOP is bad. That is much less likely on an '05 and up motor.

What are you using to monitor? I'd be interested to see if you have sync and especially what your cranking RPMs are. One thing which is often overlooked is the cranking RPM....they won't signal the FICM to fire the injectors if the RPMs are too low. It's possible that by using ether (which ignites very easily and doesn't need much compression to ignite) you're making it spin just fast enough for the PCM to activate the FICM.

 

[Strokkinngggg]

First, never use starting fluid. You're just asking for something to break using that. So let me be sure I understand, and for clarification for everyone else....you're spinning the motor, trying to start it, and you're seeing 600PSI on the ICP and 32-34% on the IPR. Is that correct? Or are those the numbers you're seeing at idle? The reason I ask is when cranking with no leaks we will typically see 1200-1500 PSI and perhaps 50% or so on the IPR. When I see your numbers it's usually at idle and with a minor leak.

Anyway, to answer your question, IMO it's best to use the IPR adapter to apply air. Most any air compressor will work, so long as you can get above 100PSI and have a big enough tank....you don't want the compressor running when doing the test because you have to listen for leaks. So once it's on and air is applied, listen for leaks through the oil fill tube and the CCV port on the drivers side. If you hear a leak which is loud on one side and quiet on the other, your leak is on the loud side. If you hear loud leaks on both sides, you probably have leaks on both sides. If you hear soft leaks on both sides then you probably have a leak in the HPOP area. You didn't state what year you have, so it could be your J-tube or STC fitting, or even the HPOP seal itself. If you don't hear any leaks at all I would then open up the oil filter, allow it to drain, and listen. If you hear a gurgle then the HPOP is bad. That is much less likely on an '05 and up motor.

What are you using to monitor? I'd be interested to see if you have sync and especially what your cranking RPMs are. One thing which is often overlooked is the cranking RPM....they won't signal the FICM to fire the injectors if the RPMs are too low. It's possible that by using ether (which ignites very easily and doesn't need much compression to ignite) you're making it spin just fast enough for the PCM to activate the FICM.

So since I started to notice truck was doing this it has done that about 4 times only when hot let’s say I get to the gas station turn it off go pay for diesel buy a snack get a drink then go and fill it up with diesel what’s that like 15min???? Try to restart it and just crank and crank fast and not start, there’s where I see those reading but now let’s say i go to Walmart park it go inside and do what I need to do maybe 1hr i go into the truck crank it and she starts right away

 

[Weatherlite]

You're definitely describing a leak in the high pressure system. It's just weird that you're getting the ICP/IPR readings you are. Regardless, with what you're describing I would proceed with the air test. Do a little bit of reading first just so you can get an idea of how others found their leaks. Once you've found your leak, think about how far into the engine you are and if there is anything else you would want to do while there. So much easier to do a second thing while it's torn apart. lol Also, if you're replacing one o-ring, consider replacing them all since you're already there for one.

 

[Strokkinngggg]

You're definitely describing a leak in the high pressure system. It's just weird that you're getting the ICP/IPR readings you are. Regardless, with what you're describing I would proceed with the air test. Do a little bit of reading first just so you can get an idea of how others found their leaks. Once you've found your leak, think about how far into the engine you are and if there is anything else you would want to do while there. So much easier to do a second thing while it's torn apart. lol Also, if you're replacing one o-ring, consider replacing them all since you're already there for one.

Yeah that’s what’s confusing me cs I already replaced once the stc fitting and I remember seeing 85% ipr and 200psi

 

[Weatherlite]

Well you also have two dummy plugs, two stand pipes, eight injector top o-rings, eight oil rail nipple cup o-rings, and the o-ring between the block and HPOP, so there are plenty of potential leak sources.

Have you looked at your oil filter cap and filter? Sometimes the aftermarket cap is taller, and when a stock filter is installed the oil won't go to the HPOP reservoir.

 

[Strokkinngggg]

Well you also have two dummy plugs, two stand pipes, eight injector top o-rings, eight oil rail nipple cup o-rings, and the o-ring between the block and HPOP, so there are plenty of potential leak sources.

Have you looked at your oil filter cap and filter? Sometimes the aftermarket cap is taller, and when a stock filter is installed the oil won't go to the HPOP reservoir.

I did the air leak test and I can barely hear air on both sides but Definitely I can hear more on passenger side

 

[Weatherlite]

Sounds like it's time to remove the valve cover on the loud side and listen closer. You can either use a hose which you cup against your ear and then aim the other end towards various potential leak points. Another way is to pour some oil around the tops of the injectors and watch for it to be pushed around. If it is blown upward you need an injector top o-ring. If it is blown downward you need a nipple cup o-ring. If neither of those things happen but you definitely hear the leak on that side then you need to replace the dummy plugs and stand pipes. I used the plural because if you're going to do one side you should do both to be on the safe side. Once you've fixed the leaky spot, re-do the air test.

Something else to think about...if you have xxx,xxx miles on the engine and an o-ring has failed, how much longer until another one goes? If you're already in that area doing work on one thing, it makes sense to me to replace all of the o-rings if you can. That's just my opinion though.

One final bit. If you pull the valve covers and can't find the leak but still hear it like it's deeper in the engine, remove the HPOP cover and look in there.