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New 6.0 Owner
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Discussion Starter #1
I just bought my first diesel and it is a 2004 6.0 with 160K on it and I plan on putting the Rotella 5-40w in it but I have no idea what AR9100(I think I got that right) is and was hoping to get some input. I also checked the trans fluid and it is in good shape but would like to change it out, however ,I am worried about doing the flush since it does have some miles on it and I know losing those wear products can result in a multitude of problems in some cases. So was just kind of hoping to get some input from you fine gents who have been doing this longer than I have been driving and go from there. Also is doing an oil change on your own as easy as on a normal truck or is it a little different with a diesel? And finally... what oil filter do yall recommend?
 

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I have an 04 with 136k. I put in the Archoil at my last oil change. Very happy with the results! I also run the 15-40 dino motorcraft oil. Thinking about changing to synthetic though.
 

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New 6.0 Owner
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Discussion Starter #3
ok so I will definitely be running the Archoil in mine I have decided after looking into it, also is there any consensus on oil? By that I mean 5W or 15W? I live I the south so very rarely do we even get below freezing but it gets hotter than hell.
 

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Administrator
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5w is just a better starting oil IMO i run it 365 and I live in AZ

the Flush for the trany is very straight forward if you have it done by Ford
and really if someone says they can do it but does not have a heated flushing machine they are full of it
the 5r bypasses the cooling circuit (mostly) until over 170+
that being said the only thing that flush does it hijacks the old fluid and replaces with clean so if you were counting on old suspended grit to keep friction between the clutches then you would be correct about your fears

I don't think that's the way it works so I would get the old stuff out
bare minimum do a pan drop or 2 and consider the 08++ pan and filter upgrade
 

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EA - Eggfarts Anonymous!
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18,847 Posts
I just bought my first diesel and it is a 2004 6.0 with 160K on it and I plan on putting the Rotella 5-40w in it but I have no idea what AR9100(I think I got that right) is and was hoping to get some input.

Also is doing an oil change on your own as easy as on a normal truck or is it a little different with a diesel?

And finally... what oil filter do yall recommend?
Rotella 5-40w with AR9100 has done me a lot of good!

oil change is simple as catching the 4 gallons coming out, reinstall plug, refill, and replace filter!

and ALWAYS use an oem motorcraft filter... then again i believe racor is essentially the same as the motorcraft iirc...

& sub'd - always in the mood for fluid discussions :D
 

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New 6.0 Owner
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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks for al the help. Ill be doing it myself this weekend I think im going to go with the Rotella 5W-40 with AR9100, and as far as the stock filters go I read a lot about that and I know what your talking about there at least. But none the less you gents have come through in answering my questions!! So again thanks you for that! As far as the trans fluid ill just take it to my friends shop and have him do it for me! Great having a mechanic with his own shop as a friend!
 

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EA - Eggfarts Anonymous!
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no! oh & be sure your buddy understands how much fluid is in the cooler lines and torque converter. it takes a several flush-n-fills to get most of the trans fluid out (unless he's got a heated flush machine)
 

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I bought my 05 with 187,000 on the clock. I did all my own fluid changes. In the engine, I used Rotella T6 and 1 quart of the Lucas Synthetic Oil Stabilizer. I know I am in the minority but this stuff works for me. The engine starts great and idles smooth almost instantly. Better than with the oil alone. It started down to 12 degrees without being plugged in. I use this in other equipment and have great results with it. YMMV
 

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EA - Eggfarts Anonymous!
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no! oh & be sure your buddy understands how much fluid is in the cooler lines and torque converter. it takes a several flush-n-fills to get most of the trans fluid out (unless he's got a heated flush machine)
lol i meant to type 'no problem!', not just 'no!' lol
I bought my 05 with 187,000 on the clock. I did all my own fluid changes. In the engine, I used Rotella T6 and 1 quart of the Lucas Synthetic Oil Stabilizer. I know I am in the minority but this stuff works for me. The engine starts great and idles smooth almost instantly. Better than with the oil alone. It started down to 12 degrees without being plugged in. I use this in other equipment and have great results with it. YMMV
i tried lucal oil treatment for gas engines before, I was pleased with the outcome!
 

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Ive been doing alot of reading about different oil's (brands and ratings) trying to figure out what to use on my next OC, was thinking about schaefers 5W-40 but no local stores so Id have to buy in bulk to save on shipping ($375= 16 gallons) so I might go the Rotella way. One thing that I read was the "Shearing Effect" of 40 weight oil in the 6.0 and the opinion that because a 40W oil essentially becomes a 30W oil it makes more sense to run a 30W oil.. Am I understanding that correctlly? can anyone speak to this? I got that info from a thread on BITOG
 

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EA - Eggfarts Anonymous!
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there have been conversations on the topic on here, but i don't recall the consensus. i do know plenty of people end up using synthetic 10w-30 like rotella t5 iirc with no issues... love to hear more on it tho!
 

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One thing that I read was the "Shearing Effect" of 40 weight oil in the 6.0 and the opinion that because a 40W oil essentially becomes a 30W oil it makes more sense to run a 30W oil.. Am I understanding that correctlly? can anyone speak to this? I got that info from a thread on BITOG
"Shearing" shearing is how quickly oil breaks down when put between gears, like for example when you play with that lucas oil thing at the parts store. but not in the sense of it actually climbing the gears, but being in-between them.

first you have to understand oil,
conventional oil so to say would look like little balls like on the commercials when they are spread out, an example would be putting oil in a hot pan and put thing in the oil and watch it break apart into smaller "groupings" or "balls."

synthetic oil you would say long strands of engineered lubricant, from what my research in the past and understanding is that it would look like cat hair balled up kinda deal. Its long strands like that so when smoothed out over a surface like a cam for instants, it would "wrap" around it and lay on it to create a smoother coat and constant coat of lubrication.

now throw in shearing
if the oil will be in more of a gear box like (when i was looking into this for my Harley) the gear box of Harley where no there is not meany round or smooth spots like cam or crank, but more gears and teeth. Then synthetic would actually not last as long due to shearing between the gears and teeth. conventional would be better due to how it acts going through the gears. instead it would separates into smaller particles and comes back together after it leaves the "pinch" point of the gears, instead of getting "chewed" up into smaller pieces (meaning the long strands that synthetic is designed to be) and not keep the viscosity its supposed to be or break down prematurely.

so what that turns into is synthetic is optimum for smooth surfaces with out meany gears and conventional is optimum where there are a bunch of gears and would have a higher chance of degrading quicker.

ill try to find the independent study I found this information.
 

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Powerstrokin'
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The 6.0 will shear a 40 weight to a 30 weight pretty quickly. My experience has been that if you start with a 30 weight, it will stay there. You have to consider this: If you put a 40 weight in,and in 2000 miles you have sheared to a 30 weight, for the remainder of the interval you are lubricating with an oil that has the viscosity of a 30 weight with no long term harm, why would there be any difference using a 30 weight all the time? I've run 3 different 30 weights with very similar results. Brad Penn, Rotella, and Valvoline Premium Blue, all 10w30. I like VPB, it's a synthetic blend, gives low wear numbers, and NAPA puts it on sale in the spring for around 12.00 a gallon. I stock up then. I've never used Delo 10-30 from WalMart, but Delo has a great line of products, and there is no reason their offering would be much different than any of the other name brands. In the interest of experimenting though, I am picking up a 5 gallon pail of John Deere Plus 50 II this week for the next change. I have seen oil analysis of this stuff, virgin and used, and it looks really good: definitely not your off the shelf Rotella or Delvac. Reasonable also, about 13.00 a gallon. If you have a Cat dealer near you, Cat DEO is another oil that tests well.
For the rear end, I like Delo. They use a slightly different way of doing their gear lube, using a borate additive instead of sulfide, and it has very little sulfur. I've run this exclusively in my F350, plus several other rear ends, and the stuff just works. I add one bottle of RedLine Limited Slip Friction Modifier, 4 ounces with each change.
Coolant, I run, and like Shell Ultra ELC. Silicate free, Cat EC-1, it has a molybdate inhibitor for excellent corrosion protection. Delo XLC would be my second choice.
In the trans, I see no reason to switch from Mercon LV. O'Reilley auto usually has it in stock, and it's not expensive. I keep mine changed regularly with pan drops and new filters. I had a heckuva time getting the external filter can opened up. I think everyone does. I finally got it open for a filter change with a really long pipe on the end of my breaker bar, with a block of wood placed in the right spot to keep the mounting bracket from bending.
You'll find what works for you, just keep up on the maintenance, especially the engine oil. I suggest you get a used oil analysis. That will give you some hints on the overall condition of your engine, and help you find the sweet spot for change time. And give a 30 weight a try. I've used it for 3 years now, and the majority of that time is spent pulling a 10k TT. There is zero harm in running a 30 weight in the 6.0, and in fact there are several advantages: slightly better fuel mileage, easier cold crank, and more stable over the long run. I'm certain many will disagree, and that's cool... run what you want that works for you in your truck. Fluid discussions border on the ridiculous sometimes, like whether Starbucks or Dunkin has the best coffee, or if you like Coke or Pepsi. I'm only stating what I've had success with, YMMV.
BTW, it's Dunkin' and Pepsi for the win.
 

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I can prove that Rotella t6 5-40 and Delo syn 5-40 are good for 5000 mile
and still within acceptable levels ( for my 6.0 anyway as I get an oil analysis at the 5000 drain interval )


after that i have no idea how it performs since I change it and I start with a 40 because it's easy to find so if it shears to a 30 as some reports state i am fine with that

the trick to a 5r110 external filter is bump it with a impact wrench
then replace the whole pan and screen with an 08 filter and pan


and yes fluid discussions get stupid sometimes this forum seems to be more tame about it '
but the potential is there
 

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Former Ford Trans Engr.
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so if you were counting on old suspended grit to keep friction between the clutches then you would be correct about your fears
That's just an old myth anyway. Grit in the fluid does nothing except cause more wear in the transmission. It doesn't help the trans in any way.
 
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That's just an old myth anyway. Grit in the fluid does nothing except cause more wear in the transmission. It doesn't help the trans in any way.
So in my pickup with 200k and a unknown service history on the trans, should i get a flush at the ford dealer, if they have the machene) for preventative mantaince?
 

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:psn:FYI guys. i get 5w40 rotella T6 at menards. right now, through august 2016 (i think), shell has a $5 per gallon rebate going on. thats a good deal. if you grab it while menards has their 11% rebate, the price cannot be beat. thats like $13 for a gallon of T6 synthetic
 
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