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Discussion Starter #1
First, I know that there are a myriad of threads on here that discuss crank, no start issues, but like most people, maybe I'll determine in this process one of the 1 in a million issues that no one has had and we'll learn together; so here goes.

My truck description: 2003 F250, 6.0L, build date of February 2003, 141,000 miles on the engine. EGR cooler and oil cooler replaced around 85,000. Blue Spring mod, and FICM with Atlas 40 tune from Ed at FICMrepair.com. I also run a MBRP Installer Series 5inch turbo back straight exhaust, and a Banks Six-Gun with the Banks IQ and now a ScangaugeII.

In September of 2018 I started having issues with the truck not starting when above normal operating temperature. It would start cold ok (little longer than normal crank time), but if I got to operating temperature and shut off the engine, I would have to wait until the engine oil temp was under 115*F to restart. Sometimes this would take several hours, just depending on the time of day and ambient temp outside. My Banks IQ was reading codes P2290, P2291, P2623. I was on my way to a fire call in the truck and I lost all power. I couldn't get above 50mph regardless of how high my RPMs went. Once I got to the scene the truck died and wouldn't re-start. Had to have it towed home. 2 days went by and I got it to start so I could turn it around in the driveway. After watching every video that DieselTech Ron had to offer, I determined, it to be the HPOP and IPR. based off of the reading from the "Fuel Pressure" gauge on the Banks IQ. This reading was 100psi. Now I know that that is an inaccurate label of the gauge as there is no means to read fuel pressure without installing a gauge on the fuel filter bowl, but that reading should be coming from the IPR. I changed the IPR, ICP, and HPOP.
Last weekend I finally got all the parts in, installed and the truck back together. In the process, I had to replace the wire harness ends for the VGT solenoid, IPR and ICP sensors. I also tore apart the turbo and cleaned and anti-siezed all parts. I replaced the turbo mount bolts and drain tube with parts from Bulletproof diesel. Also replaced all the o rings and gaskets for the turbo. New engine oil and filter (15w-40 Shell Rotella T4 and motorcraft filter) and new fuel filters. Got it all together and it fired up fine. Had a small exhaust leak but other than that it was doing good. I drove it with no issues other than extremely low boost(maxed out at 5-9psi), I believe due to the exhaust leak around the up and down pipe on the turbo, for 3 days. On Saturday I retightend all the clamps and it seemed like the leak was gone. I took it out for a test drive and when getting in the throttle pretty heavy, it would generate up to 20lb of boost. On the way back into the neighborhood the truck shut off like I turned the key off. I coasted into the neighborhood, tried to restart it, but no luck. I opened the hood and smoke was coming from under the turbo, in the area of the HPOP cover / turbo drain tube. Also had a burning oil smell.

Just got my scangauge II in the mail yesterday and got it setup with all the Xgauge parameters. So here are my numbers. Also changed the batteries today. Had them on a charger all night and still only mustered up 11.2 volts.

Key on Engine Off
SYC: 0 FCM: 48.0 IPR: 14.8 ICP: 42 Volts on the battery (measured with multimeter): 12.48
Key on Engine Cranking
SYC: 1 FCM: 48.0 IPR: 84 ICP: 144
 

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Train Whistlin' Ex driver
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Well, that sucks. High IPR and long cranking when hot typically calls for an air test to look for high pressure oil leaks. When you replaced the pump did you all air test the system? ICP will need to hit at least 500psi to start, have you tried starting with the connector unplugged (just too double check the sensor)? Did you see oil in the engine valley or just smoke? Excessive heat, smoking and smells in an oil system (just in my experience) is usually a sign of: Oil getting leaking onto hot components (CAC boot tore and sprayed oil all over my top end) deprivation, component failure - I'm not saying that's what happened but I'd check for leaking oil that could be spraying on the turbo housing, maybe pull out the turbo, etc. and go over the repairs making sure they are: 1. operational, 2. installed correctly and 3. nothing is stopping the oil flow. Also, did you confirm the correct oil level? with the motorcraft filter, is the oil filter top the correct (short) top?
 

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"resident smarty pants"
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What brand HPOP did you install?

Same question for ICP sensor, IPR, and for the oil cooler.
 

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Master BS'er
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Probably 8 out of ten times I see a no start 6.0 it's a high pressure leak. The other 2 or 3 out of ten it's something else. This one screams a high pressure leak. That's definitely the very first thing I would check, but it has to be hot when you check it.
 

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"resident smarty pants"
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P2623 is an open/grounded IPR circuit code.

Is that code still there?

Finding the source of the "burning oil smell" could be many things. Best to find leaks after thoroughly cleaning the engine.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Well, that sucks. High IPR and long cranking when hot typically calls for an air test to look for high pressure oil leaks. When you replaced the pump did you all air test the system? ICP will need to hit at least 500psi to start, have you tried starting with the connector unplugged (just too double check the sensor)? Did you see oil in the engine valley or just smoke? Excessive heat, smoking and smells in an oil system (just in my experience) is usually a sign of: Oil getting leaking onto hot components (CAC boot tore and sprayed oil all over my top end) deprivation, component failure - I'm not saying that's what happened but I'd check for leaking oil that could be spraying on the turbo housing, maybe pull out the turbo, etc. and go over the repairs making sure they are: 1. operational, 2. installed correctly and 3. nothing is stopping the oil flow. Also, did you confirm the correct oil level? with the motorcraft filter, is the oil filter top the correct (short) top?
thesoulless: I didn't do an air test. I just went off what the BanksIQ was giving me as the Fuel Pressure gauge reading (.1, Measured in x1000). I haven't tried to unplug the ICP or IPR connector yet, plan on doing that this afternoon. It is extremely difficult to get to without taking apart most of the left side of the engine compartment. When it died, I didn't find any actual oil leaking, just smoke coming from under the turbo area (not a heavy smoke, just a little more than a faint smoke level). Prior to the truck dying, I did have a small leak on the top of the turbo at the supply line connections. I tightened those up and it quit leaking. I recently replaced the CAC boot coming off the turbo, I have checked it and cant find any cracks or breaks in the hose. Now oil level...... here is where I had some concerns. I am the only owner of this truck, bought it brand new after my deployment in May 2004, and as such am the only one that has ever changed the oil in it. Without fail, every oil change (4,500 - 7000 miles) I change the oil and filter with the Motorcraft FL2016 and Shell Rotella T4 15w-40 oil, capacity 15 quarts exactly. To get my oil level back to the checked marks on the dipstick this time took 18.5 qts. Also has the stock / original cap for the filter. I also changed the MAP sensor and replaced the MAP hose from sensor to intake during this repair.

bismic1: I got the HPOP from Advanced Auto, Pn# 37505, BWD Diesel Injection High Pressure Oil Pump with 1yr warranty.

From Autozone : Injection Pressure Regulator, Pn# 800-542, 3yr warranty
Injection Pressure Sensor (ICP), Pn# 904-501, Lifetime warranty


Oil cooler was done in a repair shop in Columbia, South Carolina in May of 2010. No idea what part brands were used.

I hope this answers all the questions. If you have any good advise on how to get under the turbo to disconnect the ICP without disassembling the majority of the left side of the engine compartment, I'm all ears. Thanks for you help.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
P2623 is an open/grounded IPR circuit code.

Is that code still there?

Finding the source of the "burning oil smell" could be many things. Best to find leaks after thoroughly cleaning the engine.
On Saturday, just before it died, the codes on the BanksIQ were:
P0046: A51VGT Solenoid out of range/performance
P0672: GPCM Cylinder 2 Glow Plug Circuit
P1000: OBD-II Monitor Test incomplete
P132B: Refer to Service manual
P2284: ICP injector control pressure sensor circuit

Will get a fresh reading for you this afternoon.
 

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Train Whistlin' Ex driver
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Yeah, getting to the ICP can be behind the turbo can be a pain (mine's an 03 as well), but you can either use a pick from the top, or try reaching up from the bottom (there's a view youtube videos showing it), but with the codes you're getting you might have a wire chaffing issue (p132B is a VGT code I believe). Clear the codes, and check again, but also go over your wire harness and chassis grounds. How much anti-seize - and on which parts - did you put on the turbo? I've seen some debate about anti-seize during turbo refurb or not.
 

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Master BS'er
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A lot of those codes might just be from it stalling out before the pcm knows it, especially if they're different every time. Don't waste your time checking any code that isn't consistent.
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
Yeah, getting to the ICP can be behind the turbo can be a pain (mine's an 03 as well), but you can either use a pick from the top, or try reaching up from the bottom (there's a view youtube videos showing it), but with the codes you're getting you might have a wire chaffing issue (p132B is a VGT code I believe). Clear the codes, and check again, but also go over your wire harness and chassis grounds. How much anti-seize - and on which parts - did you put on the turbo? I've seen some debate about anti-seize during turbo refurb or not.
In cleaning the Turbo, i followed a write-up on powerstrokehub.com. I used the motorcraft anti-sieze and did a light coating on all moving parts on the "rusty" side of the turbo. It wasn't caked on by any means, just sufficient for lubrication.

Cleared codes yesterday, now I'm getting no DTC codes on either the ScangaugeII or the Banks IQ.
 

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"resident smarty pants"
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The scangaugeII is ok as a monitor, but it is a poor code reader. It misses a lot. I don't know about the Banks IQ.

If you want a good code reader, download ForScan for your phone. $10 for the ad-free version IIRC. You will also need a $35 ELM 327 adapter (bluetooth version for Android phones and WiFi for iOs). ForScan is a good monitor also, but being on the phone is not as handy as a dash mounted monitor. It is a great code reader. The laptop version is great I hear!
 

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Discussion Starter #13
So I got the ICP sensor pigtail disconnected, and attempted to start the truck. ScangaugeII readings while cranking follow: FCM: 48.0 IPR: 54.6 ICP: 1885 SYC: 1. Truck still no start. Cranks good but no start.
 

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Train Whistlin' Ex driver
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So, I believe what this test result means (and someone will correct me here I have not doubt), is that: at the PCM's desired ICP (the 1885) the IPR is working and the truck should start, but it's not actually able to BUILD the pressure to start. Have you run the air test yet? There is an adapter that connects to the IPR socket that saves you from having to command it open during the test. Hopefully, if it's a HPO leak it's something simple like an o-ring on the stand-pipes and not the o-rings on the HPOP!
 

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Discussion Starter #15
got the engine disassembled. took the IPR out and the screen was busted through in 2 of the 3 sceen sections. My plastic cowl under the wipers is breaking up every time i put my hands on it seems like. I vacuumed the top of the block off when i was reassembling the engine before but now there are little black plastic chunks everywhere. I got them all cleaned up now again.

So several questions at this point:
1: Could the busted IPR screen be enough to kill the engine? The plunger still actuates under manual pressure (me pushing on the plunger)

2. Do I need to change anything else at this point since the IPR screen busted with less than 2 hours of drive time on it?

3. Cosmetic question: the stock heat blanket above the turbo is shot. That fiberglass is all over everything. What do yall recommend as a replacement?

Advanced is getting a new HPOP in tonight (under warranty) and Autozone is getting me a new IPR tomorrow (under warranty).

Standing by for guidance.

Thanks for your help
 

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Master BS'er
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Definitely. Look inside the ipr and there's probably a chunk of the screen stuck in it, which holds it open and pressure won't build. Seen that many times.
 

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"resident smarty pants"
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Since you have new parts coming, then you need to do an air test (for leaks) when the new parts are installed. I would probably buy the IPR test fitting and do the air test before installing the new IPR valve.

The broken screen on the IPR means something probably went through it, and that could cause a no-start. Trouble is, you need to know what it is that went through it and identifying that might be tough. Inspect it carefully!

Just be very clean with the system - as much as you possibly can.

Is it the insulation wrap that attaches to the turbo that is degrading? If so, you might contact KC turbos and see if they can get you a replacement.

The wiring tray part number is 3C3Z-14A099-AA
 

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"resident smarty pants"
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Discussion Starter #19
Since you have new parts coming, then you need to do an air test (for leaks) when the new parts are installed. I would probably buy the IPR test fitting and do the air test before installing the new IPR valve.

The broken screen on the IPR means something probably went through it, and that could cause a no-start. Trouble is, you need to know what it is that went through it and identifying that might be tough. Inspect it carefully!

Just be very clean with the system - as much as you possibly can.

Is it the insulation wrap that attaches to the turbo that is degrading? If so, you might contact KC turbos and see if they can get you a replacement.

The wiring tray part number is 3C3Z-14A099-AA
These are the insulation and cowl parts i was referencing.

doing the air test know. I think we are doing it correctly. I got the IPR and ICP air fittings on my air compressor with about 120psi. If i hear air coming from the filter housing then the hpop is bad?
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Hooked up equipment for air test as described above. Only place air is coming from is the HPOP cover for the turbo drain tube hole. Do I need to redo the test with the turbo mounted???
 
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