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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
need help.
had a cylinder 4 contribution code. which failed the "bubble test" on on the driver side bank. (isolated to pin point which side it came from) replaced all 4 injectors on the driver side. after changing them i got same code but for cylinder 6. found my injector harness connectors (tabs) were broken so i figure i had a loose connection causing the new code. replaced the harness and still had the cylinder 6 contribution/balance code. messed with the check valve.... still nothing. got the injector swapped out with another new injector, which fixed that problem and now I have a contribution code on cylinder1 the side I didn't touch nor had problems with before. kind of stumped at the moment.
suggestions would be awesome.

thanks,
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
code comes when warmed up and is a very slight stumble at idle. truck drives better than it did before
 

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Have you checked fuel pressure? Low fuel pressure is the #1 killer of injectors
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I haven’t. I don’t have a way to check it at the moment. I did do the blue spring kit from sinister last October when I did the oil cooler. I’ll have to check that Tuesday my coworker has a kit for testing pressure. I have Forscan but cant check fuel pressure on it. It’s intermittent though drives perfect and randomly stumbles. Only when at a stop otherwise it’s not noticeable. And if I clear the code it takes a while to comeback. Ficm test good 47-48v koeo, cranking and while running I wouldn’t doubt i need to change the injectors on the driver side. I’m going to do it this summer anyway. But yah if I step on it I get black and white smoke I guess grey? Which never have before.
2003 f250 6.0 power stroke
88,000 miles (bought it from original owner)
 

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That sinister fuel regulator might be your problem. You definitely need to drive. The truck with a fuel pressure gauge hooked up (for a while) to check for fuel pressure irregularities. It is possible that the o-rings on the injectors are dried out and leaking.
IMO the general thought is when you get the gray smoke, you have a bad injector.

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Yah, just towed my 5th wheel and no code the whole way though I was on the highway. Drove great the whole time. I’ll defiantly look into my fuel pressure as soon as I can will post what I find. I hate these threads ending with no conclusion
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
So I made it home after blowing my hot side charge pipe off 4 times. Sinister cac boots 5 months ago** any idea on how to stop that from happening would be cool. Anyway contribution code does not come on when towing. While camping I dropped the 5th wheel and went to town came back and the code popped back up. Cleared it drove home with no contribution code. Don’t know if that may help anyone with possible problem. I will be trying to get that fuel pressure checked soon too. I’m thinking the intensifier piston in the injector sticks at idle and under heavy load it doesn’t stick? Not sure...
 

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So I made it home after blowing my hot side charge pipe off 4 times. Sinister cac boots 5 months ago** any idea on how to stop that from happening would be cool. Anyway contribution code does not come on when towing. While camping I dropped the 5th wheel and went to town came back and the code popped back up. Cleared it drove home with no contribution code. Don’t know if that may help anyone with possible problem. I will be trying to get that fuel pressure checked soon too. I’m thinking the intensifier piston in the injector sticks at idle and under heavy load it doesn’t stick? Not sure...
Injectors seem to be very temperamental... Temp, oil condition, load, fuel pressure etc. It will eventually fail badly enough that you can't ignore it.
The cac tube isn't seating right or the clamps aren't tight enough or are bad/cheap/weak. Make sure the surfaces are oil free, then tighten the clamp down tight. If you're not using oem clamps, hit NAPA, they have "constant tension" clamps that will work well, replace clamps on both sides of the boot. I've double clamped with cheap ctcs before, but quality clamps eliminate the need to do that.

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Yah I feel every time I put a new one in it makes the weak ones fail. I’ll just do the 4 eventually but I do want to make sure that everything else is good before. I think the sinister boots are meant for sininster pipes cause I replaced just the boots and kept my old pipes, it did come with new clamps. Cleaned everything (every time it blew) and used a torque wrench to get the feel of how tight I needed to go when it happens on the road. Still blows off. I did get regular t bolt clamps from Napa today. got me home. will probably get some new pipes and boots man these things are expensive.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Fuel pressure at idle is 65psi lowest it drops WOT is maybe 55psi am going to pull the last four injectors Sunday and install new hopefully Monday (avoiding having to front the core charge) also have new sinister charge pipes and boots on the way.
 

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2006 F250, 6.0 powerstroke
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Fuel pressure at idle is 65psi lowest it drops WOT is maybe 55psi am going to pull the last four injectors Sunday and install new hopefully Monday (avoiding having to front the core charge) also have new sinister charge pipes and boots on the way.
try this:
Basic FICM Testing
There are many ways to test the FICM and some of them require specialized diagnostic equipment. However some tests are fairly simple using hand tools and a multimeter. If you find that your symptoms align with the hard starts and rough running cold, then the testing may be as simple as grabbing your multimeter and a friend to help. There is a small assembly cover on the top of the FICM, that is normally held down by two torx T20 screws. If you remove this cover, you should see four smaller torx T15 screws. If you connect the negative lead of your multimeter to the battery negative and touch the positive lead to the screw closest to the driver’s side of the truck, then have your friend turn the key to the “on” position, the multimeter should read 48 volts or so (note: be VERY careful NOT to allow your leads to ground out to the case during testing) If this reading doesn’t display or you receive an error warning from the multimeter, you may need to change the voltage setting on the meter to allow it to display the 48 volt reading. If you see the 48 volts, then have your friend crank the engine over and pay close attention to the meter. During cranking anything less than 46 volts would be considered a failing FICM power supply side. There are other factors that can lead to inadequate voltage output, such as bad connections and/or vehicle battery issues, so if you suspect that the vehicle battery(s) could be bad, have them charged and load tested before trying this test.
Also on your boots and pipes, clean both with brake clean, let dry, spray a coat of hair spray into the boot and onto the pipe. Assemble as normal. Should fix the boot blowing off.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Hmm never heard of the hairspray trick pretty cool idea. I have checked the ficm koeo, cranking, idle and 2000rpm. I did use archoil fuel system cleaner about 500 miles before the first injector went l, I’m wondering if that exposed some internal issues in my injectors. The first contribution code I got it failed the bubble test passed the buzz test and after pulling the injector the orings were good and no signs of blowby. I didn’t have time to have them tested (free test if they fail and you buy a replacement but if I bought one and wanted them tested anyway I had to pay which I had no time to wait 7 days for test results to buy new either way) kinda dumb I’m cheap I guess. So I didn’t get it tested but pretty positive it was internal and not leaking thru the orings
 

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Hmm never heard of the hairspray trick pretty cool idea. I have checked the ficm koeo, cranking, idle and 2000rpm. I did use archoil fuel system cleaner about 500 miles before the first injector went l, I’m wondering if that exposed some internal issues in my injectors. The first contribution code I got it failed the bubble test passed the buzz test and after pulling the injector the orings were good and no signs of blowby. I didn’t have time to have them tested (free test if they fail and you buy a replacement but if I bought one and wanted them tested anyway I had to pay which I had no time to wait 7 days for test results to buy new either way) kinda dumb I’m cheap I guess. So I didn’t get it tested but pretty positive it was internal and not leaking thru the orings
So you are up and running and injectors were the issue? Kinda weird that multiple injectors fail at such low mileage. Unless something caused it like low fuel pressure or bad fuel. I have an 06, 6.0 with original injectors @200k miles and running great.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I never checked fuel pressure before I put the blue spring kit on which was like 7-8 months ago maybe fuel pressure was low then? And I’ve only done the driver side injectors so far. The code went from cylinder 4 went away with the new injectors now I got cylinder 1 (on the side I didn’t didn’t replace any)
 

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I never checked fuel pressure before I put the blue spring kit on which was like 7-8 months ago maybe fuel pressure was low then? And I’ve only done the driver side injectors so far. The code went from cylinder 4 went away with the new injectors now I got cylinder 1 (on the side I didn’t didn’t replace any)
Low fuel pressure will ruin injectors very quickly. It happens way too often. Invest in a good set of gauges to monitor the vitals while your driving, tow max gauges or similar.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Installed the new injectors and drove it for about 2 hours. So far so good. I was getting black smoke when stepping on it for a little bit but slowly went away. Maybe part of the learning cycle with the new injectors? Will update end of week or when I have a problem which either comes first. There was three different types of injectors on this side so I’m guessing the previous owner was doing one at a time as needed. Pretty happy with it so far. And the charge pipes look nice and can tell the design is a whole lot better than oem.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Someone should definitely make some videos on early model (log style) oil rails and tricks to get them off/ torque them down. Pain in the ass, I went thru the wheel well but maybe there is some tools people have used to make it easier. Please share if you do.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Alright, I was actually about to write that everything is good sure as **** I had a contribution code today. Cylinder 5. Possible just another bad new injector? I did have one on the driver side (new) faulty. After having them swap me for another new one it cleared that up. Possibly just another bad new injector? I’m sick of digging into this thing over and over. Though I got the code again, I have zero symptoms. It did throw the code I’m guessing when I was idling at a off ramp that was backed up. Another thing is I’ve had slight black smoke when stepping on it since I replaced them all on the passenger side. Originally I was thinking the blue spring kit might be giving to much pressure to stock injectors (for the black smoke) but now im thinking the internal on this new injector is leaking, bad internal springs? I really don’t have any other reasoning besides the injector being bad.
-Fuel pressure 52-63 psi
-New injector harness
-ficm reading 48v at koeo, start up, idle and 2000rpm (which codes only comes when warm and at idle so the ficm shouldn’t be an issue)
-new fuel filters (motorcraft)
-compression is good (did not have an actual gauge to measure compression but did all the basic checks as in oil cap off with now blow by and cranking the engine over is very smooth. The contribution code is moving to different cylinders)
-oil pressure is good

Just suck it up and swap the injector again or what?! I did not get charged for taking it back and exchanging. Truck runs f** great🤦‍♂️
 

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Alright, I was actually about to write that everything is good sure as **** I had a contribution code today. Cylinder 5. Possible just another bad new injector? I did have one on the driver side (new) faulty. After having them swap me for another new one it cleared that up. Possibly just another bad new injector? I’m sick of digging into this thing over and over. Though I got the code again, I have zero symptoms. It did throw the code I’m guessing when I was idling at a off ramp that was backed up. Another thing is I’ve had slight black smoke when stepping on it since I replaced them all on the passenger side. Originally I was thinking the blue spring kit might be giving to much pressure to stock injectors (for the black smoke) but now im thinking the internal on this new injector is leaking, bad internal springs? I really don’t have any other reasoning besides the injector being bad.
-Fuel pressure 52-63 psi
-New injector harness
-ficm reading 48v at koeo, start up, idle and 2000rpm (which codes only comes when warm and at idle so the ficm shouldn’t be an issue)
-new fuel filters (motorcraft)
-compression is good (did not have an actual gauge to measure compression but did all the basic checks as in oil cap off with now blow by and cranking the engine over is very smooth. The contribution code is moving to different cylinders)
-oil pressure is good

Just suck it up and swap the injector again or what?! I did not get charged for taking it back and exchanging. Truck runs f** great
Black smoke is incomplete burn of fuel, mostly caused by under boost or air leak in the cac system, you can force black smoke by power breaking the truck, ... Or a tune, tunes tend to smoke when you first give it throttle, most likely from the changed fuel curve. A leaking injector should smoke white/Grey and sometimes a little blue.
 
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