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6.0 bulletproof

5071 Views 10 Replies 4 Participants Last post by  punchs
Sorry, I know this is such a dead horse to beat into the ground.

Need to get my 06 done up this winter and going with a local guy here in Madison WI.

Here's the email traffic back and forth. I really want to know your opinion on what I should do and if this seems correct. I'm a little worried putting Ford parts back in my truck and just don't know about any other reputable dealers around the area.

----------------- His quote ------------------
Stephen,

Thank you for contacting us regarding the repair of your truck.

Our standard 6.0L head gasket replacement would include re-surfacing, magnafluxing, and pressure testing of your cylinder heads. It would also include ARP head studs, Ford updated head gaskets, Ford updated oil cooler, new high pressure oil rail stand pipes, exhaust manifold gaskets, exhaust manifold bolts, lower rocker box gaskets, and intake manifold gaskets. With required labor added to the parts and services above, the estimated total would be $4200. If we were to add an full EGR delete kit to the estimate, that would be an additional $200 in parts costs but, no additional labor. An SCT X4 programmer would come with 3 custom programs for your truck, including a towing program for $449. Normally, you will see better fuel economy while running a slightly larger program than a standard towing or economy tune. This programmer would allow you to experiment with the different options to see what worked best for your driving style, etc. We realize that the total cost is more than your projected budget for the repair work but, we do strive to make our estimates very comprehensive to avoid a great deal of add on costs after the job has begun.

Bulletproof Diesel makes very nice products but, they do come at a premium price, unfortunately. By adding a coolant filter kit for $185 to the updated Ford oil cooler, we haven't had any repeat failures to the coolers. This is a more economical option over the Bulletproof air cooled unit at nearly $1600. If you chose to go with a Bulletproof EGR cooler as well, that would be an additional $150 over the EGR delete option.

**Any other required parts, shipping charges, shop supplies, fluids, and sales tax would be additional.

I do need to mention that there is a possibility that the cylinder heads may require additional machine work, such as valve guides, seats, valves, etc. The machine shop that we use is able to fix any of these problems in house for an extra charge, if the need arises.

-------------------- My response -----------------------------

Dan,

I was kind of in a rush the other day when explaining the work to the lady who answered the phone.

I want to elevate all of the known problems with 6.0’s. My truck just got off of an extended warranty with Ford and we moved from Washington State to Wisconsin. The EGR has been replaced in the last year, the oil cooler was replaced at the beginning of the month, bed plate, and rear main. Even with this I’m still seeing problems towing my jet boat around and it really does not have the power that it should only towing a 5k boat. I know the turbo vanes are probably going to be due for a cleaning since I continually get the over boost code after driving through town for awhile then getting on the high way with a heavy pull.

I was really just interested in the head studs but I could see the need for the head and cylinder work since you would be in there already. I’m not 100% on the updated Ford parts since I have had such horrible luck on the previous parts that Ford has installed. But I’m willing to go with them if they are serious improvement on what was originally put in (hopefully the oil cooler they recently installed was the updated one). The only thing I was considering was the oil cooler with the cold weather kit for the winters around here. I definitely want to do a full EGR delete kit but have been reading that it is sometimes not a cure all to the problem? I probably would rather go with the delete over the bullet proof filter kit just because it’s more filters to replace down the road and I have heard that I still need to be doing coolant exchanges every year.

The programmer is a must for me but I might do some shopping around and just have it for you to install when I drop the truck off since I’m interested in some custom tunes.

I can flex my budget a little since I’m looking at getting this taken care of during the winter when I do not use my truck as much. I can probably look at scheduling something around the December time frame depending on your availability?

My main question is going to be, what do I need to really do to keep this truck out of the shop for the next 100k? If Bulletproof parts are the answer then that is the case, if Ford updated parts then that’s what we will go with.



06 6.0
105k
cold air
newer EGR/Oil cooler
7 inch lift on 37"
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90% of the time the ford parts are still the best. ford oil coolers with elc and filter kit lasts for long time. BPD kits are a better option. I would also add stc fitting kit, water pump, thermostat,new hoses, updated fp regulator, turbo feed and drain tubes, and dummy plugs.
I do believe that Ford has spent millions of dollars testing products that are tried and true.

What about the EGR Delete? I have heard that deleting it is not a catchall to solve problems. My idea and under the guidance of this mechanic is to do the delete, or just add in the BPD filter kit and continue utilizing the newer EGR cooler that I have? Can I delete it and be alright or do I need to utilize the BPD version of just taking the coolant out of the Oil Cooler completely and going to an air cooled version?

I'm also planning on the SCT X4, any thoughts?
Delete the egr, your truck will be much better off
In my truck I did not delete the egr, rather, I plugged it. I think it just takes a 1 3/8 inch soft plug to plug to plug the egr cooler. That way the cooler still supports the up pipe so that it is less likely to crack. Also, the scoop in the exhaust up pipe should be cut out to relieve back pressure to the right cylinder bank.
I do believe that Ford has spent millions of dollars testing products that are tried and true.

What about the EGR Delete? I have heard that deleting it is not a catchall to solve problems. My idea and under the guidance of this mechanic is to do the delete, or just add in the BPD filter kit and continue utilizing the newer EGR cooler that I have? Can I delete it and be alright or do I need to utilize the BPD version of just taking the coolant out of the Oil Cooler completely and going to an air cooled version?

I'm also planning on the SCT X4, any thoughts?
I'm not a big delete fan. probably because I have seen so many leak 2x many than failed egr coolers. If you have a BPD cooler I would just reuse it unless your cooling system has major issues it will be fine they do have lifetime warranty from BPD. I do recommend the bpd oil cooler if budget allows it is a permanent fix for oil cooler issues. I have also had good luck with elc and coolant filter with ford oil coolers also. In my opinion an sct is a must set it on 65hp tow egr off and forget it, That is a rock solid setup on studded truck. We have done 100+ trucks that way with zero issues. Bigger tunes trucks start becoming unreliable eating direct clutches in the transmissions ect...
I'm not a big delete fan. probably because I have seen so many leak 2x many than failed egr coolers. If you have a BPD cooler I would just reuse it unless your cooling system has major issues it will be fine they do have lifetime warranty from BPD. I do recommend the bpd oil cooler if budget allows it is a permanent fix for oil cooler issues. I have also had good luck with elc and coolant filter with ford oil coolers also. In my opinion an sct is a must set it on 65hp tow egr off and forget it, That is a rock solid setup on studded truck. We have done 100+ trucks that way with zero issues. Bigger tunes trucks start becoming unreliable eating direct clutches in the transmissions ect...
I do not have the BPD oil cooler but I do have the updated newly installed Ford oil cooler and my temperatures seem to be looking good going down the road. Rarely do they get above 10* difference and usually when I'm really abusing it trying to pull hard up a quick hill while passing. I do appreciate the opinion on not deleting the EGR and I will have to get with the mechanic and see exactly what he intends to do. He said delete but that could just mean doing freeze plugs and leaving the system in. There are some pretty big emission requirements in Wisconsin but not the area I live in. I would imagine that they would like to leave it in just for appearances in the emissions counties.

I will definitely not go past a tow tune just because I'm not looking for a truck to pull a sled but be super reliable and bullet proof pulling my little 21 foot sled around to the fishing holes.
If you have a new ford oil cooler add a coolant filter now. It only helps remove debris from the system. Many people don't think they work because of the small amount of flow. From my experience I am still surprised how much crap they remove on systems I thought were clean. The new ford egr coolers are still problematic either weld it shut "will pass visual inspection" delete it or install a bpd egr cooler regardless don't just leave it alone.
Yea I talked to another shop today closer to where I work and they said that the delete was the way to go. I did like the coolant filter option and was talking to the guy about putting it in even with the EGR delete just to alleviate any other problems with the oil cooler.

Is 5k the right budget for this type of thing?

He said they can go as high as 7600 if they find some serious head or piston problem, which I can quickly believe. My question is what is a realistic money real to be in for a bullet proof option? Keep in mind that the heaviest I will ever tow will not likely be more than 10k and the truck is mainly a daily driver with my 5k boat. I just want something that will not give me problems down the road and I can drive it with out always looking at my ECT and EOT and wondering if something is about to go wrong.
5k is about right, if heads are junk they are about 1100 ea. if the engine has over 5,000 hours plan on new valves and guides about 700 bucks to rebuild them. If it has been badly over heated count on new heads.
Well, hopefully I will be ok with the 5k budget, never seen any temps higher than 220 and the coolant has never moved in the bottle.

Appreciate all of the help now I just to need to hammer down and save for a couple of month so this thing is rock solid for the spring coho run on Lake Michigan.
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